Need Help on a Smoking Sachs Dolmar 115I

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NoPaint

Feeling the Heat
Jan 2, 2009
269
USA
I was gonna sell this saw but its not 100% so I want to fix it first. I have hardly ever used it but when I bought it (used) it was smoking when you ran the engine. I can't say I am positive the mix is correct, it could be high on oil. My question is: what other than fuel mixture could cause smoking in this saw? It has power like you wouldn't believe and it revs up like a sport bike. The smoke isn't terrible but its smoking more than my Makita.
 
It's all in the mix or too rich a carb setting.
 
Thanks! What is that screw that is large and visible by the pull start. It has some letters printed next to it.
 
bad piston ring can cause alot of smoke, but being an older saw its going to be a 32:1 mix and smoke more than the new saw's
 
Since its a small 2-cycle engine, what you put in the fuel tank is what you are seeing in the exhaust. It appears to be a "too much oil in the gas" dilema.

If the saw will start, idle well when warm without quitting, and run up to full rpm smoothly, then likely the carburetor adjustments are fine.
 
Yes the saw runs at 100% without fail. It runs so well I don't think I am going to sell it. Since I don't know what mix is in the tank I will have to refill with fresh fuel and retest. Do you guys buy into the Amsoil 2cycle oil that claims you run it at 100:1 no matter what (or something like that I heard)?
 
NoPaint said:
Yes the saw runs at 100% without fail. It runs so well I don't think I am going to sell it. Since I don't know what mix is in the tank I will have to refill with fresh fuel and retest. Do you guys buy into the Amsoil 2cycle oil that claims you run it at 100:1 no matter what (or something like that I heard)?

yes but a older saw like that I would still run it at 50:1 and sould clear that smoke up!
 
Oil debates can cause more flame wars than religion, :lol: so I won't go into a huge debate on the topic, but I would say that I have severe doubts about the Amsoil claims - no doubt it's good stuff, but I still would be very hesitant to run a saw at more than a 50:1 mix.

I agree, you should probably change the fuel mix to something where you know what it is (I won't run stuff if don't know what is in it...) and that is reasonably fresh. That may well be all it takes to cure the smoking problems. Note though that changing the mix ratio WILL slightly alter your fuel / air ratio, so you might need to do some minor tweaking of your carb adjustments after doing so.

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
Oil debates can cause more flame wars than religion, :lol: so I won't go into a huge debate on the topic, but I would say that I have severe doubts about the Amsoil claims - no doubt it's good stuff, but I still would be very hesitant to run a saw at more than a 50:1 mix.

I agree, you should probably change the fuel mix to something where you know what it is (I won't run stuff if don't know what is in it...) and that is reasonably fresh. That may well be all it takes to cure the smoking problems. Note though that changing the mix ratio WILL slightly alter your fuel / air ratio, so you might need to do some minor tweaking of your carb adjustments after doing so.

Gooserider

+1
 
Good point. I'll just stick to 50:1 synthetic like I have in everything else for 20 years and never had a lubrication related failure.


So what is the big silver adjustment knob on the top of my saw?
 
NoPaint said:
Good point. I'll just stick to 50:1 synthetic like I have in everything else for 20 years and never had a lubrication related failure.


So what is the big silver adjustment knob on the top of my saw?

Good question - photos might help...

Normally there are three carb adjustments on a saw, Hi and Lo speed mixture jets, and idle speed. These are normally small screws on the carb. Other adjustments that you find are the chain tensioner, and possibly an oil flow rate setting. The chain tensioner is usually on the sprocket cover, or possibly on the bar. If the saw has an oiler adjustment (not all saws do) it's more commonly on the bottom of the saw.

Are you sure it's an adjustment knob, and not something like a nut for the air cleaner cover?

Gooserider
 
Thanks for the reply Goose.

I just adjusted the oiler (less oil, it was getting too oily) and its not the chain adjustment. I am very mechanically inclined but I didn't want to start fiddling with an older German Saw if it runs this well. I will do the oil change and then if it smokes I'll go with an adjustment.

If only I could install that Stoichiometer and O2 sensor into the muffler and get it dialed in perfectly....
 
Get rid of what's in your saw's tank and put in a fresh mix of gas/oil. Make sure to run it awhile before you look for smoke, it will likely smoke until all the old product is purged completely.

As I mentioned, if the saw starts, idles, runs up well, I would not fool with carb adjustments. There is really no need.
 
mayham(AKA POOK) said:
i thinx u can run the saw without oil in gas briefly 4fun
It is NOT ACCEPTABLE to give advice to people that is likely to damage their equipment if they are foolish enough to follow it!!!

Gooserider
 
I'm not running a 2smoke without any oil! I'll run whats in it because its fuel and I have no other use for it and its really no more than a cup or so.
 
bad rings causes smoke on a 4 stroke as the crankcase oil passes into combustion chamber. Not so on a 2 cycle as the crankcase is where the mix goes through in compression adn there is no oil sump there. So there is no test of the rings for smoke per se.

I agree with all above. clean the air filter, dump the mix, put in fresh, and run it to see.

never straight gas, no way.
 
If the saw was running a rich mix for a long time, the muffler might have carbon buildup and need cleaning.
 
Just went out and cleaned both my Makita and this Sachs Dolmar. I cleaned both air filters, side prefilters, spark plugs, adjusted the chains, and torqued fasteners. I will run out the remaining fuel in the Sachs Dolmar as I need things cut then switch to a fresh mix. I will take the muffler off and clean it out too but if I remember correctly from the Vespa VNB/VBB/Allstate days you have to put 2smoke mufflers in an outdoor fireplace to get all the inside gunk burnt out? Or do they open up?
 
You can also burn them clean with a propane torch after taking it off the saw.
 
I'll pull the muffler on the 115I but not the Makita. The 115I really runs amazingly. The previous owner was a stickler for maintenance and cleaning and so am I so the saw is like new but I think its a 1985 model. Thats 23 years of running!

I guess I won't pull the muffler before I order a gasket for it first.
 
NoPaint said:
I'll pull the muffler on the 115I but not the Makita. The 115I really runs amazingly. The previous owner was a stickler for maintenance and cleaning and so am I so the saw is like new but I think its a 1985 model. Thats 23 years of running!

I guess I won't pull the muffler before I order a gasket for it first.

Actually, if the saw runs good, I wouldn't mess with the muffler - why fix what isn't broke? Seems to me like muffler cleaning is one of those things one might want to do when trying to fix a badly running saw, but if the saw runs well that is a strong indication that the muffler isn't a problem.

Gooserider
 
Q ill run out the remaining fuel in the Sachs Dolmar as I need things cut then switch to a fresh mix. Q







didn't read all the above to know how fresh it is. If less than a couple months great, if older, I'd dump it. a dollars worth of fuel causes all sorts of issues. I'm sure many people have run fuel a year old, but the quality of the fuel has changed a lot due to the cracking processes to get more fuel per barrel of crude, and to meet pollution regs both in the car engine and at the refinery.
To diagnose any problems I first want to get back to bedrock and not chase unrelated symptoms. That means compression, spark, fresh fuel, clean filters, good fuel and impulse lines.

sounds like you are getting it sorted out and learning in the process. a valuable expereince.
 
Gooserider said:
NoPaint said:
I'll pull the muffler on the 115I but not the Makita. The 115I really runs amazingly. The previous owner was a stickler for maintenance and cleaning and so am I so the saw is like new but I think its a 1985 model. Thats 23 years of running!

I guess I won't pull the muffler before I order a gasket for it first.

Actually, if the saw runs good, I wouldn't mess with the muffler - why fix what isn't broke? Seems to me like muffler cleaning is one of those things one might want to do when trying to fix a badly running saw, but if the saw runs well that is a strong indication that the muffler isn't a problem.

Gooserider
I agree. Clean the spark arrestor screen if it's dirty, but I would bother pulling the muffler if you don't need to.
 
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