Update:
Since the last that I posted, I have purchased a magnetic double wall flu thermometer. So, I should have had one of those installed before I started the first fire! I have no idea what my flu temps must have been but lets say I'm sure there was no creosote build up in the first week. Having this thermometer has made all the difference. I feel like I was driving a car blind for that first week after now having a number of days running the stove with it. In my mind, as I'm sure most wood stove noobs think, the higher the thermostat setting the greater the heat output. But what I have found is that, for example, in the morning when I've pretty much burnt it down to medium small hot coals the box temp (I still just have the catalyst indicator) nearing the inactive range, and the flu temp between 200-300 degrees, I'll stoke it and spread out the coals, then fill up the box keep the flu bypass open and the t-stat at full open to get the fire going. I close the bypass once I'm in the active zone and start dialing the t-stat setting back once I'm in the 500-600 degree range, to around 2. I will then see, over then next several minutes the flu temps, ie wasted heat, go down while the box temps continue to rise. I'm essentially forcing that heat to find another path out, which is into my house. The results of keeping my flu temps down and maximizing output have resulted in 12 hour burns still with the same ash, and a much warmer house. My wife has made several comments about what a difference these last few days have been compared to the first week.
My question now is, should I also get a dedicated stove top thermometer, and what threads are must reads to improve my understanding of balancing flu and box temps to maximize output and efficiency?
As a side note, I have not yet installed my fan kit, I'm waiting for it to come in.
Since the last that I posted, I have purchased a magnetic double wall flu thermometer. So, I should have had one of those installed before I started the first fire! I have no idea what my flu temps must have been but lets say I'm sure there was no creosote build up in the first week. Having this thermometer has made all the difference. I feel like I was driving a car blind for that first week after now having a number of days running the stove with it. In my mind, as I'm sure most wood stove noobs think, the higher the thermostat setting the greater the heat output. But what I have found is that, for example, in the morning when I've pretty much burnt it down to medium small hot coals the box temp (I still just have the catalyst indicator) nearing the inactive range, and the flu temp between 200-300 degrees, I'll stoke it and spread out the coals, then fill up the box keep the flu bypass open and the t-stat at full open to get the fire going. I close the bypass once I'm in the active zone and start dialing the t-stat setting back once I'm in the 500-600 degree range, to around 2. I will then see, over then next several minutes the flu temps, ie wasted heat, go down while the box temps continue to rise. I'm essentially forcing that heat to find another path out, which is into my house. The results of keeping my flu temps down and maximizing output have resulted in 12 hour burns still with the same ash, and a much warmer house. My wife has made several comments about what a difference these last few days have been compared to the first week.
My question now is, should I also get a dedicated stove top thermometer, and what threads are must reads to improve my understanding of balancing flu and box temps to maximize output and efficiency?
As a side note, I have not yet installed my fan kit, I'm waiting for it to come in.
I am 100% sure you continue to be impressed with the Princess once you have the t-stat settings all figured out for the interior temps you want to maintain - I know I am still smiling ear to ear with being able to keep my house above 70 and have a load last 24 hours with outdoor temps in the upper 20's here 
