New Blaze King Ultra Photos with EcoFan!
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hotprinter said:
Hey HotPrinter,
Thanks for your very useful testimonial! I'm planning the same sort of ducting, and would like to pump you for a bit more info:
1. Are the ducts powered or passive?
2. Do you use any other fans, HVAC or otherwise, to circulate the heat upstairs?
3. What is your duct size?
4. What are the relative temps between lower and upper?
Thanks for any info, and congrats. That's one sweet setup all around.
Hate to burst your bubble. But a register with duct hooked to it between floors does isolate it from the floor joists. But is not code and does not slow the spread of fire from the lower level to the upper or vise versa.
That is the purpose of the fire damper. It is to create more time for the fire to get between floors, rooms, etc, thus giving more time for evacuation.
Not preaching, just setting the facts straight. I personally used fire dampers in my set up. But I do everything overkill.
Enjoy, looks toasty in there.
That is the purpose of the fire damper. It is to create more time for the fire to get between floors, rooms, etc, thus giving more time for evacuation.
Not preaching, just setting the facts straight. I personally used fire dampers in my set up. But I do everything overkill.
Enjoy, looks toasty in there.
They say that "beauty is in the eyes of the beholder" and it sounds like that's one happy beholder!
Nice job on that house heater. That hearth extention looks good and thanks for shareing that in the pics.
Hogwilds had mentioned something about a firestop vent. Inspector told me that I couldnt heat a room below
my stove because of code but didn't say anything about using something like that. Wondering if this is commercially
approved and available? Got any more info on those?
Enjoy the warmth
rn
Nice job on that house heater. That hearth extention looks good and thanks for shareing that in the pics.
Hogwilds had mentioned something about a firestop vent. Inspector told me that I couldnt heat a room below
my stove because of code but didn't say anything about using something like that. Wondering if this is commercially
approved and available? Got any more info on those?
Enjoy the warmth
rn
rustynut said:
Interesting!
It seems to me that if there is a horizontal run of duct work between inlet and outlet (in other words, not just a vertical passage between floors, which would be a fire spreader without a fuse) that it is not any more of a hazard than a traditional heating duct that has outlets on the ceiling of one level and the floor of the level above. Is that against code, or require fused vents?
summit said:
I actually like the look of the BK better than the Summit/Spectrum/Vista look from PE.
I'm planning for a purchase of the BK Princess next season, I have a straight ranch 1800 SF open floor plan and keep
the bedrooms cool
and I don't think there ugly my house is rustic looking
gotto find a dealer up here in cape cod
REPLY:
I would recommend the KING ULTRA. You will LOVE being able to fill it up in the morning and coming home and still having it half full and burning hot. You can dial it down and it will go up to 40 hours. That is SWEET!
the bedrooms cool
and I don't think there ugly my house is rustic looking
gotto find a dealer up here in cape cod
REPLY:
I would recommend the KING ULTRA. You will LOVE being able to fill it up in the morning and coming home and still having it half full and burning hot. You can dial it down and it will go up to 40 hours. That is SWEET!
1. Are the ducts powered or passive?
2. Do you use any other fans, HVAC or otherwise, to circulate the heat upstairs?
3. What is your duct size?
4. What are the relative temps between lower and upper?
REPLY:
Passive, I would recommend trying passive first as hot air rises. We have a ceiling fan in the room above the stove and I have it slowly circulating (drawing up). It is really pulling the hot air up.
The openings in the vent are about 6" x 12" and there are 2 side by side. We have a thermostat upstairs about 15 feet from the vents and the other night when I was opening up the stove the upstairs got to about 79 degrees. I have since kept it about 74 upstairs and my wife is thrilled. She actually said that she wishes it would get way below zero so we can see how this baby works! It is hovering at about zero (which is NOTHING to us <g>). It seems the key is to get the airflow going and keep it circulating, not fast but just consistant.
2. Do you use any other fans, HVAC or otherwise, to circulate the heat upstairs?
3. What is your duct size?
4. What are the relative temps between lower and upper?
REPLY:
Passive, I would recommend trying passive first as hot air rises. We have a ceiling fan in the room above the stove and I have it slowly circulating (drawing up). It is really pulling the hot air up.
The openings in the vent are about 6" x 12" and there are 2 side by side. We have a thermostat upstairs about 15 feet from the vents and the other night when I was opening up the stove the upstairs got to about 79 degrees. I have since kept it about 74 upstairs and my wife is thrilled. She actually said that she wishes it would get way below zero so we can see how this baby works! It is hovering at about zero (which is NOTHING to us <g>). It seems the key is to get the airflow going and keep it circulating, not fast but just consistant.
Hate to burst your bubble. But a register with duct hooked to it between floors does isolate it from the floor joists. But is not code and does not slow the spread of fire from the lower level to the upper or vise versa.
That is the purpose of the fire damper. It is to create more time for the fire to get between floors, rooms, etc, thus giving more time for evacuation.
REPLY:
It meets code in our area. Our codes may not be as strict (in rural Alaska) as they are in the lower 48. Check codes in your area before any remodel. Can you post a photo or website explaining a fire damper please.
Thanks
That is the purpose of the fire damper. It is to create more time for the fire to get between floors, rooms, etc, thus giving more time for evacuation.
REPLY:
It meets code in our area. Our codes may not be as strict (in rural Alaska) as they are in the lower 48. Check codes in your area before any remodel. Can you post a photo or website explaining a fire damper please.
Thanks
lethal dose
Member
i, too, would like more information on how to get heat from downstairs to upstairs and still meet code. do explain these fire dampers. are they always open like the ones the op is using and you just close them manually in the case of a fire? thanks.hotprinter said:
lethal dose said:
The basic idea is a shutoff mechanism held open by a "fusible link". In the even of a fire, the link melts and releases, causing the vent to automatically shut itself off.
Here's a source:
http://www.atlantasupply.com/swscri...ire+Dampers&PC=A&SC=FD&REQUEST_ID=CCATSEL_AS2
And another:
http://www.vent-axia.com/range/pyrocheck-fusible-link-fire-dampers.html
Sorry for the threadjack! Congrats again on the great install and satisfaction with your King!
Here is a few pictures of one of the fire dampers I bought off Ebay. The staple gun was set next to it to give you an idea of the size. Really not that large. Semi heavy for what it is, and does need a strap mounted for support
I originally was looking for a fuse linked register grate, but could not locate any, or maybe they were way too expensive. I forget it has been a while.
Everything else seemed quite expensive also.
But I located these fire dampers on Ebay and think I paid $30.00 for both.
They install inline of a 6" duct. I have one installed and this one yet to be installed. They come in different sizes.
Ideally you want them near the inlet wall. But in the end , they will close wherever you put them. They have a shutter type door that is held open with a fusible link. Link gets hot, reaches set temp, breaks, spring loaded shutter door inside slams closed. Think of an accordion, that is what the shutter basically is.
I opened the link and it comes closed with a heavy spring force. Be careful if you do the same. PITA to get the door collapsed again, but doable.
These are rated for 1-1/2 hours.
You may be right, and there may not be code for them up there. But I am inclined to think two ways....
One, I would think these would be some kind of universal code, common sense thing, it could make the difference to fast unobstructed spread of flame from on room to another, to slowing it down to give plenty more time to react and time to think.
Second, as I said, I do everything overkill. A little over engineering can only help, or ensure more safety.
That is just me, I can't expect everyone else to see things the way I do. So I try respect anyone person's view or how they do things. I may not agree, or do a similar thing, but I can respect their ways.
Just my two cents. I still say looks great, enjoy and be safe.
Hogz
I originally was looking for a fuse linked register grate, but could not locate any, or maybe they were way too expensive. I forget it has been a while.
Everything else seemed quite expensive also.
But I located these fire dampers on Ebay and think I paid $30.00 for both.
They install inline of a 6" duct. I have one installed and this one yet to be installed. They come in different sizes.
Ideally you want them near the inlet wall. But in the end , they will close wherever you put them. They have a shutter type door that is held open with a fusible link. Link gets hot, reaches set temp, breaks, spring loaded shutter door inside slams closed. Think of an accordion, that is what the shutter basically is.
I opened the link and it comes closed with a heavy spring force. Be careful if you do the same. PITA to get the door collapsed again, but doable.
These are rated for 1-1/2 hours.
You may be right, and there may not be code for them up there. But I am inclined to think two ways....
One, I would think these would be some kind of universal code, common sense thing, it could make the difference to fast unobstructed spread of flame from on room to another, to slowing it down to give plenty more time to react and time to think.
Second, as I said, I do everything overkill. A little over engineering can only help, or ensure more safety.
That is just me, I can't expect everyone else to see things the way I do. So I try respect anyone person's view or how they do things. I may not agree, or do a similar thing, but I can respect their ways.
Just my two cents. I still say looks great, enjoy and be safe.
Hogz
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If you are looking for fire dampers, check with your local commercial HVAC installers or commercial sheetmetal companies and they should be able to provide them or point you in a direction to purchase them. Typically on the dampers shown above you must have the shutter in the center of a wall /floor and have retaining angles to hold them in place in case of fire.
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