New Buck Stove Model 21 Install

[Wiredllama]

I just finished up the install on a new buck stove 21 insert. The shape of my existing fireplace requires the insert to stick out a little from the face of the fireplace. I couldn’t bend the flex liner enough to attach directly to the stove. The 30 degree elbow allowed me to make the connection. As I am new to this, I just wanted to throw a photo on here and see if any one sees any problems with my connection and set up.

I’ve learned a ton by perusing this site for the past few months while planning and, purchasing, and installing. Thank you all! Hoping to fire it up this weekend for the first time.

 

[begreen]

Nice clean install. It looks good there.

Is this an exterior wall fireplace and if yes, did a block-off plate get put in?

 

[Wiredllama]

Nice clean install. It looks good there.

Is this an exterior wall fireplace and if yes, did a block-off plate get put in?

I did not make one yet but I have ceramic insulation in the cavity for now

Chimney is internal.

 

[PAbeech]

That looks really good!

 

[begreen]

I did not make one yet but I have ceramic insulation in the cavity for now

Chimney is internal.

For an interior chimney may be sufficient. Try it and see.

 

[appointed EPA deviant]

That stove has a very low profile. Plus what looks to be a tall original fireplace is a great combo.

 

[FPX Dude]

Looks really good, I would paint the liner black, just my $.02.

 

[Vg3200p]

Congrats on your new stove

 

[Wiredllama]

Looks really good, I would paint the liner black, just my $.02.

I do plan on painting the liner. I just wanted to get it all hooked up and working quickly while we had a break from snow and ice on the roof.

 

[kborndale]

The insert sticking out a little is a good thing. It's going to put more heat in the house.

 

[Wiredllama]

Well unfortunately it seems I have some major draft problems. Smokes and smolders forever. Takes a long time to get started. I cant even crack open the door without smoke coming out of the flex pipe connection and when I open the door even further smoke just rolls out the door opening. Chimney is 15’ and I even scrapped on an extra 3’ temporary piece at the top to see if that made any difference. Nothing. Very frustrated.

 

[kennyp2339]

The weather hasnt been really conductive for woodburning in our area, moisture and warmth until really yesterday, you can try heating the flue via 10min with a propane torch or burning crumbled up newspaper to get some flow going, if your house is airtight, you may want to crack open the nearest window to see if that helps with air pressure and draft. Also take the cap off the liner and try a fire, the cap may or may not be causing additional restriction.

 

[Wiredllama]

The weather hasnt been really conductive for woodburning in our area, moisture and warmth until really yesterday, you can try heating the flue via 10min with a propane torch or burning crumbled up newspaper to get some flow going, if your house is airtight, you may want to crack open the nearest window to see if that helps with air pressure and draft. Also take the cap off the liner and try a fire, the cap may or may not be causing additional restriction.

Thanks for the tips. I have cap removed now. It’s burning ok now maybe but I’ve been working it for the past hour. I still have the air wide open.

 

[vbu]

Well unfortunately it seems I have some major draft problems. Smokes and smolders forever. Takes a long time to get started. I cant even crack open the door without smoke coming out of the flex pipe connection and when I open the door even further smoke just rolls out the door opening. Chimney is 15’ and I even scrapped on an extra 3’ temporary piece at the top to see if that made any difference. Nothing. Very frustrated.

It may not be a draft problem, it sounds like your chimney is tall enough. Do you own a moisture meter to test your wood?
What wood are you burning, and how long ago was it split/stacked?

 

[Wiredllama]

It may not be a draft problem, it sounds like your chimney is tall enough. Do you own a moisture meter to test your wood?
What wood are you burning, and how long ago was it split/stacked?

It’s cherry I think. split and sitting under a roof for almost two years now. Fresh split on my meter said about 17%. Flames have now gone out

 

[begreen]

Is the liner insulated? This insert needs a 16' liner with insulation. Our next-door neighbors have this sized insert on a 15' flue liner and it is balky until outdoor temps drop below 45º.

Grab some dry 2x4 cutoffs, split them in half and build a fire with that wood. It will get the flue hot quicker. And put the cap back on to keep rain out. It shouldn't be a problem. Instead, open a nearby door or window 1" to see if that improves the fire.

 

[Wiredllama]

Is the liner insulated? This insert needs a 16' liner with insulation. Our next-door neighbors have this sized insert on a 15' flue liner and it is balky until outdoor temps drop below 45º.

Grab some dry 2x4 cutoffs, split them in half and build a fire with that wood. It will get the flue hot quicker. And put the cap back on to keep rain out. It shouldn't be a problem. Instead, open a nearby door or window 1" to see if that improves the fire.

Have about 16-17’ of liner. I just measured how much I cut off my original 20’ piece. It’s 36 degrees here today. I suppose insulation and perhaps better wood are my next steps.

The top of the liner, when I was putting the cap back on seems to be quite wet. Is that a sign of wet wood or just a cold liner condensation?

 

[begreen]

The top of the liner, when I was putting the cap back on seems to be quite wet. Is that a sign of wet wood or just a cold liner condensation?

Yes, it can be. Wet wood really cools down flue gases quickly. Try some known, dry wood like the 2x4 cutoffs. Stack some full-sized and half-split pieces in Lincoln log style. If that burns briskly then the wood is the issue. Also, try opening a close-by window or door a crack. If that makes a notable difference, the stove is starving for combustion air due to a tight house or competing exhaust appliances and fans.

 

[Wiredllama]

Yes, it can be. Wet wood really cools down flue gases quickly. Try some known, dry wood like the 2x4 cutoffs. Stack some full-sized and half-split pieces in Lincoln log style. If that burns briskly then the wood is the issue. Also, try opening a close-by window or door a crack. If that makes a notable difference, the stove is starving for combustion air due to a tight house or competing exhaust appliances and fans.

Yes, it can be. Wet wood really cools down flue gases quickly. Try some known, dry wood like the 2x4 cutoffs. Stack some full-sized and half-split pieces in Lincoln log style. If that burns briskly then the wood is the issue. Also, try opening a close-by window or door a crack. If that makes a notable difference, the stove is starving for combustion air due to a tight house or competing exhaust appliances and fans.

First off, thank you so much for taking some time and giving me lots of advice here

I will try the 2x4s next. I’ve had actual flames now for the past little bit but I’ve also still got the air running wide open. Hard to say how tight the house is. It’s built in the 50s but recently had a few additions, new windows, insulation, etc….

The only other source of competing air right now is a coal stove running in the basement. I have a window slightly open in the room now. My biggest concern is when I open or crack the door to add any more fuel, all the smoke coming back into the room. That is what I think is telling me there is not enough draft.

New to this wood burner thing. So thank you again for the help.

 

[begreen]

The most typical issue is with the wood, especially if it was purchased in the past 6 months. It is very rare to get dry firewood from a seller, no matter what is advertised. If it is truly seasoned then it usually comes at a high price. The 2x4 test should show this.

If the stove is short on combustion air then opening up a near by door or window will make a notable difference. The fire will gain strength and brighten.

For now, go on the assumption that the stove and liner are ok. Do one test at a time in order to help isolate the issue.

 

[Wiredllama]

The most typical issue is with the wood, especially if it was purchased in the past 6 months. It is very rare to get dry firewood from a seller, no matter what is advertised. If it is truly seasoned then it usually comes at a high price. The 2x4 test should show this.

If the stove is short on combustion air then opening up a near by door or window will make a notable difference. The fire will gain strength and brighten.

For now, go on the assumption that the stove and liner are ok. Do one test at a time in order to help isolate the issue.

Will do. My patience was tested today and I need to take my time and get it figured out correctly. The stove paint is still curing so that smell is driving me nuts as well.

I put a few 2x4 extras in there awhile ago. Those burnt very well and I even saw the secondary tubes working with them. I will assume the wood is one of the major factors. However, I still get tons of smoke coming out the door when I crack it.

I have a lot of wood on my property to use in the future so I will be sure to season as best as possible. I cut and split about two cords this fall of ash and cherry. Hoping those will be nice and dry by next season. This stove will be used for tertiary heating (if that's even a thing) as I also have a heat pump, coal stoker for the basement, and electric backup. I do appreciate your time and effort today for sure. I will update this thread as I continue the learning process. I know I've learned a lot from just reading other people's stories so perhaps this will help someone else out in the future.

 

[begreen]

It's generally not a good idea to open the door while the fire is burning with flames present. Wait until the coal stage when the wood has fully outgassed and there is no smoke being generated.

Definitely open a door or window during the paint break-in. If you have a fan that can exhaust the fumes that can help. Once the stove has had a steady burn at 550-600º the paint will settle down.

 

[Wiredllama]

It's generally not a good idea to open the door while the fire is burning with flames present. Wait until the coal stage when the wood has fully outgassed and there is no smoke being generated.

Definitely open a door or window during the paint break-in. If you have a fan that can exhaust the fumes that can help. Once the stove has had a steady burn at 550-600º the paint will settle down.

I’ll remember that. When opening the door for reload should I have the air open or closed?

 

[FPX Dude]

Open, and then readjust after it gets going.

 

[Wiredllama]

It's generally not a good idea to open the door while the fire is burning with flames present. Wait until the coal stage when the wood has fully outgassed and there is no smoke being generated.

Definitely open a door or window during the paint break-in. If you have a fan that can exhaust the fumes that can help. Once the stove has had a steady burn at 550-600º the paint will settle down.

I attempted the 2x4 splits method yesterday. I had the small firebox somewhat full to start. Fire took about 20-25 minutes to get going. I had a window in the room open about an inch. No other exhaust fans or circulating fans running in the house. Burned pretty well for about a half hour then died down to smoldering for the rest of the burn. Max temperature I saw on the door and the side of the stove was just around 300. My stove connector and what I could measure of the liner never got above 200. Consistent, heavy smoke slowly coming out the top of the chimney top. At no point (either during the 'good burn' period or after the flames were gone) could I crack the door without smoke pouring into the room. Now the inside of the stove has some pretty heavy creosote build up which I will clean out before attempting anything else. Outside temperature was in the mid-30s with a very light breeze and no precipitation.

My next plan is to clean the stove and the liner, remove the liner, add 1/2" insulation kit, re-install and try again. I hope this will increase the liner temperature and begin pulling more draft. I believe I am just not getting a sufficient draft now. Any arguments against this plan?