New Chain Question - Rapid Super

[TomR]

I just put a new chain on my saw. It's the only one the dealer had so I took it - it's a Stihl 26 RSC 74. Now from what I understand this isn't a safety chain. I only have experience using the safety chain. Is there anything I need to be aware of or more careful about with respect to this type of chain? I am more likely to experience kickback etc? I am not especially experienced with chainsaws but didn't have any trouble using the saw equipped with the safety chain. Am I worry too much about this?

 

[Beardog]

Get prepared to be delighted. Stihl chains are the best I have used. Fast cutting and throw big chips. Watch the tip and you will be fine. Also, keep an eye on the tension for the first cuts.

 

[TreePointer]

Follow the same rules (kickback, push, pull, tension, compression, keep it sharp, etc.) for low kickback chain and you'll be fine.

If you are switching from a semi-chisel chain (RMC/RMC3) or from a narrow kerf chain, then the regular full chisel chain will be a tad more "grabby." However, you should get used to this after a few cuts. Enjoy your new chain!

 

[Beer Belly]

What is a "safety chain", and what is the difference in design ???....I usually go to the box store and buy the same Oregon S56 chain as always

 

[LLigetfa]

I use RS so not sure what difference the "Comfort" gives, but WRT kickback, a saw should be treated like a loaded gun. There is no such thing as safety chain. None are safe. Reduced kickback (green chain) only reduces the possible force of the kickback, but they still all can kickback. I've had safety chain kick back on me once and come within an inch of my face. Always be cognizant of where the tip of your bar is and hold the wrist of your left hand stiff and close to the chain brake.

 

[LLigetfa]

What is a "safety chain...

Reduced kickback (green chain) has guard links that stand proud around the tip of the bar to reduce the "bite" on the cutters. Due to their design however, they tend to get in the way of chip clearing and tend to ride over the chips in the cut, lifting the cutters up out of the wood. They also consume space needed for the chips to clear.

 

[oldspark]

Follow the same rules (kickback, push, pull, tension, compression, keep it sharp, etc.) for low kickback chain and you'll be fine.

If you are switching from a semi-chisel chain (RMC/RMC3) or from a narrow kerf chain, then the regular full chisel chain will be a tad more "grabby." However, you should get used to this after a few cuts. Enjoy your new chain!

+1 saftey is in your hands.

 

[smokinj]

Rsc Awesome chain.

 

[TomR]

I just used it. Compared to the other chain this chain is awesome. It went through the wood considerably faster, I could feel it biting. Thanks for all the feedback on this. I'm still in the learning stage with a lot of this and I tend to be extra cautious when it comes to any kind of equipment.

I am curious though - can someone elaborate on the 'rules' mentioned by Inferno. What is meant by "Push, pull, tension, compression". My understanding is that kickback happens when the nose of the chain comes into contact with an object like a branch or another tree. Are there other kickback scenarios?

 

[rwhite]

I often wonder how they consider safety chain safe. You have to work harder, they cut like crap. Reminds me of using a dull knife. Good luck with a good chain, I'd get 2 and throw that safety chain in the trash. I don't even think they make good spares.

 

[TreePointer]

I am curious though - can someone elaborate on the 'rules' mentioned by Inferno. What is meant by "Push, pull, tension, compression". My understanding is that kickback happens when the nose of the chain comes into contact with an object like a branch or another tree. Are there other kickback scenarios?

Read any modern chainsaw manual or watch the Stihl videos--it's all in there. I recommend that everyone (even seasoned chainsaw operators) watch the Stihl videos at least once. One safety, maintenance, or technique tip can keep you from damaging your equipment and yourself.




Short answers:

The chain moves around the bar by going out on top of the bar and returns to the saw on the bottom of the bar. Contact wood with the top of the bar and there is a force that PUSHES the saw toward you. Cutting wood with the bottom of the bar creates a force that PULLS the saw away from you.

Log starts to close on your bar when cutting--you've been cutting the COMPRESSION side of the log. Log starts to open--then that is the TENSION side of the log.

 

[maxed_out]

+1, love stihl rsc -especially when I set my saws up with .404 chain.

 

[MasterMech]

I often wonder how they consider safety chain safe. You have to work harder, they cut like crap. Reminds me of using a dull knife. Good luck with a good chain, I'd get 2 and throw that safety chain in the trash. I don't even think they make good spares.

Green label (Stihl) and other "safety" chains cut just fine as long as the nose of the bar is not in the wood. That's where the "safety" features on the chain activate and prevent the chain from cutting well. Those of us (and there are many) who have graduated in chainsaw technique from cutting straight down through a supported log using the bottom of the bar are also ready to move up from a "safety" chain. Stihl makes several green label chains that actually cut very close in speed to their yellow label chains. RSC3/RMC3 chain is now the default chain on all new saws from the MS362 down to the ones using 3/8" Picco and then it's PMC3/PMMC3. I wouldn't call any of those chains "crap" or compare them to dull knives. The old RM2/PM1 designs or Oregon designs with the "humped" tie-straps were a bit overbearing but thankfully we're seeing less and less of those on newer saws.

I agree that safety chain will injure you on contact just as quickly as the more aggressive varieties.

 

[LLigetfa]

Stihl makes several green label chains that actually cut very close in speed to their yellow label chains.
...
The old RM2/PM1 designs or Oregon designs with the "humped" tie-straps were a bit overbearing but thankfully we're seeing less and less of those on newer saws.

Ja, moving the guards from the tie-straps to the drive links did free up a bit of space between the cutters, but they still work like "ramps" and tend to climb up over the chips rather than rake them along. The better your chain cuts, the coarser the chip and the better they clear. The better the chips clear, the coarser the chain cuts... it's a bit of a catch 22.

A lot of people tend to round off the front of their rakers to make them look more like factory but I file only the tops flat, leaving them more squared. They rake better that way.

I wish I had a good enlarged pic of a green chain cutting link and drive link to compare to yellow chain.

 

[MasterMech]

Stihl makes several green label chains that actually cut very close in speed to their yellow label chains.
...
The old RM2/PM1 designs or Oregon designs with the "humped" tie-straps were a bit overbearing but thankfully we're seeing less and less of those on newer saws.

Ja, moving the guards from the tie-straps to the drive links did free up a bit of space between the cutters, but they still work like "ramps" and tend to climb up over the chips rather than rake them along. The better your chain cuts, the coarser the chip and the better they clear. The better the chips clear, the coarser the chain cuts... it's a bit of a catch 22.

A lot of people tend to round off the front of their rakers to make them look more like factory but I file only the tops flat, leaving them more squared. They rake better that way.

I wish I had a good enlarged pic of a green chain cutting link and drive link to compare to yellow chain.

Stihl's cutting links for green and yellow labeled chains are identical. The difference is in the drivelinks and/or tiestraps. Other brands had a cutting link with the folded over raker tooth. The worst by far!

 

[LLigetfa]

I wish I had a good enlarged pic of a green chain cutting link and drive link to compare to yellow chain.

OK, I found this one.

 

[LLigetfa]

Stihl's cutting links for green and yellow labeled chains are identical.

NO. Look at the elongated and sloped raker.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

 

[LLigetfa]

LOL... I was googling around for pics of safety chain and came across this one from Northern Tool.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/zoom_images/33SL78.jpg

 

[MasterMech]

Stihl's cutting links for green and yellow labeled chains are identical.

NO. Look at the elongated and sloped raker.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

You're right! Never noticed that before. There's a ton more slope in that raker...