new guy stopping by

[burningforyou]

Hello everyone, I'm new to the stove market, but definitely not new to burning as I'm a stationary engineer by trade. I was looking into an insert for out ZC superior. I soon realized that it would be better to go with a free standing stove. The plan is to demo the old zc and create an alcove out of the old chase. The old chase runs in my garage on the other side so my alcove size can really be any size. The house is a mid 90's built Victorian style with roughly 2500 sqft total (1400 main floor, 1100 second level). We have a large ceiling fan in the open foyer to pull heat upstairs. I have a few questions and i'll list them for easy answering. My plan is to go with something similar to geardoc and cwill's installs

1. Since my area that I plan to install in will be 8'HX5'WX3'D is this still considered an alcove? Most manufactures specify height is the issue.

2. In regards to getting the heat out of the alcove would it beneficial to slope the ceiling or blower in the ceiling behind a grate to roll the heat into the room?

3. I've been researching brands, But I keep coming to this point either they explicitly state alcove clearances, and some don't make mention at all. Which stove companies are alcove friendly and doesn't force a dealer network on the consumer?

4. What will dictate me for using stove pipe from the stove until the first firebreak? If I have to use doublewall is that the same as the class a ill have to run from the first firebreak until my cap? the total flue length will be roughly 25ft

5. How does one brush from top to bottom when most of these stoves have a baffle plate?

6. I've been looking into used stoves to keep the initial cost down, Because I believe a safe chimney and hearth is more important, and I can upgrade a stove easier later on. What are things to look for in the used stove market?

7. Would a firebox in the 2.2 cu ft range be ideal? enclosed is a floor plan and the real picture of the family room. Your suggestions and comments are welcome

 

[begreen]

Welcome.

Yes, it will still be an alcove. A slight slope to the ceiling might help, but it mucks with an easy ceiling support box install. If the ceiling is at 8ft just leave it flat. You will probably want to stick with a convective stove due to alcove clearances. On the room side you will want to use double-wall connector pipe like DuraVent DVL, above the ceiling support box you will switch to class A insulated pipe. Get a stove with a bypass or an easily removable baffle to clean. I suspect with your requirements you would be better off buying new. But if you see a Lopi Endeavor, Regency 2400 or Pacific Energy Spectrum (or Super 27) at a good price, they should work assuming the goal is a 2 cu ft stove.

Is the intent to just heat the family room and kitchen? If so, a ~2 cu ft stove will do.

 

[Grisu]

If you want to heat the whole house with the stove you will need something larger in the 3 to 3.5 cu ft range. And I am not too positive that the heat will travel well to the den and your living room but could make it upstairs. Since your house is fairly new I assume it is also insulated pretty well which will help. With a used stove I would look foremost for cracked welds, straight sides and top, and the condition of the baffle (tubes). Firebricks can be easily replaced and if you consider a catalytic stove I would also replace the cat during the installation. You may also need new gaskets which are not a big deal either.

It sounds like you are considering to order the stove though the internet and do the install yourself? Check with your insurance company what their requirements are in that case. You could also consider to hire a certified chimney sweep to help you with the install. (http://www.csia.org/)

Last but not least: No matter which modern EPA-approved stove you buy you will need dry, seasoned wood with a moisture content of less than 20% to run it. If you don't have that but are serious about adding a stove to your house I would take care of that now before even finishing your plans about the stove installation. The wood will need to be split and then stacked in single rows raised from the ground through pallets are some timber logs with lots of sun and wind exposure. I still believe covering the top helps but opinions differ about that. Most species need at least 1 year to dry others like oak a minimum of 2 better 3 to 4 years. People here found that it is difficult to buy seasoned wood from a firewood dealer as they rarely have the space and time to dry their wood as described.

 

[burningforyou]

The goal is to heat the rear of the house and the upstairs. If the living room and den are cooler that's fine. I came across an Osburn 2300 for a steal, but the manual doesn't say that you can or can't install into an alcove. I will be doing the install myself, and basically all my insurance wants is minimum clearances met. As for wood I have 2 cords of seasoned maple syrup and one of oak. I'll be getting another 10 cords of green oak in a few weeks, which will be for next year.

 

[begreen]

If heating the whole house you will need fan assistance and a bigger stove. Maybe consider a second stove for the really cold weather in the living room.

That green oak c/s/s should be set aside for 2 yrs. from now.

 

[Grisu]

If the Osburn 2300 is in a decent condition I would definitively consider it. It has a 3.1 cu ft firebox which should be able to heat most of the house given you can distribute the heat. You can contact SBI (the Osburn manufacturer) or PM the user Fyrebug here who is a SBI rep regarding an alcove installation. My guess is as long as all clearances are met you are ok but it does not hurt to make sure on that.
On the other hand, the oak will need a minimum of 2 years to season even under almost ideal conditions. Look for ash or some more maple; that you should be able to dry within a year when you have a good stack location and the splits are not too big. With such a large stove and your location I would calculate about 4 cords per winter if you burn most of the time.

Btw. If your house is rather airtight I would consider installing an outside air kit (OAK). Maybe you can terminate it in the garage which would be easy to install but I would ask about that, too.

 

[burningforyou]

I picked up the 2300 with pedestal and sbi starter kit for 820. Now I'm getting the the flue portion of the job. Can I use a double wall stove pipe to a 6" stainless liner that runs in my current 8" double wall air cooled ftf-8? If so I could most likely use rigid vs flex due to the flue already being vertical. Or am I stuck tearing down all the pipe to the cap and running double wall stove pipe to a connector going to class A chimney all the way to the top. I'm obviously trying to save time and money if at all possible. The current set up is housed in a single outside chase wrapped in siding. It's the only thing in the chase, and I'd hate to have to redo the top fascia where the current rain cap penetrates.

Ill post pictures later on tonight to clarify