New Wood Stove Fireplace Installation

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micro7311

Member
Sep 14, 2017
17
Northeast
Hi, picked up a very good condition Englander 12-FPP stove the other day and would like to install it into my fireplace with flexible SS liner but have a few questions about the physical "fit" into the fireplace.

The stove is about 23" (w) x 17" (d) x 25" (h), without the 7" feet installed on the bottom.

My fireplace box measures 36" wide by 30.5" high. The depth is 13" at the high point and 21" at the low point.

My stove without the feet would seem to fit into the fireplace with about 7" clearance on either side and about 5" or so at the top.

The brick on the floor extends about 16" past the fireplace box and extends 12" around the perimeter until it hits the wood trim around the fireplace.

Questions:

1. Is this an acceptable space for fireplace install? There would be about 20" from the stove side to the combustible (wood trim and mantle/shelves) and 17" from the stove top to the wood mantle. I imagine most fireplace installs are similar footprint and situation.

2. Are the feet necessary? Adding the feet would result in a tight fit to the top of the fireplace.
 
The problem with an install like this is not so much installing it with no feet. If the bottom of the stove is clean and there are no air intakes or controls then it might be ok. However, there is an issue with clearances to combustibles. The side clearance sounds like it is ok, but the stove has not been tested for clearance above to the mantel. What is does state in the manual is - Minimum alcove or ceiling height = 77 in.. A combustible mantel just 17" away is much too close.

You might look at selling the stove and getting an Englander 13NCi. This model insert has been tested for fireplace installation.
 
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Ok thanks for the information. So then generally speaking, all fireplace installations must be done with wood stoves designed to be as such? I was under the impression that most stoves if they can fit into the fireplace can be installed after proper cleaning, lining, etc. Even this site gives instructions on fireplace installs, and I would imagine most fireplace mantels are the same distance from the box.

If the stove ends up bring flush with the fireplace opening, what would be the difference between this and by using the regular open fireplace, both would have the same distance to combustibles?
 
Yes, if the stove is completely within the fireplace then shielding the mantel from the heat from the top of the stove is less of an issue. Also, stove top alcove clearances can vary dramatically depending on what the manufacturer has tested for. Stoves with convective heat tops are generally going to radiate less heat upward.

If you install the 12-FP in the fireplace so that it is entirely within the fireplace firebox cavity, be sure to install a full liner and a blockoff plate. An watch the lower side of the mantel shelf temps. If that area is getting quite warm then a mantel shield may also be needed. 17" is pretty close.
 
Thanks. I would be sure to install with a liner and blockoff plate. Aside from a bit of caution when doing this type of install, is this considered not to code (illegal)? I would be interested in hearing from others who have converted open fireplaces to accept stoves, and I would imagine a percentage of them are like me who have happened to get their hands on a very nice, used stove and decided to install it in their open fireplace.
 
Also this stove appears to be a bit warped at the face where the door meets the stove in some areas along the bottom, perhaps from over firing. It is not that bad but I would like to align it straight. What is the best way to do this? I read on this forum that people have simply banged it straight with a hammer. Is this the best method or would I need to heat it up (or a combination of both). The thickness of the metal is about 1/8"
 

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Also this stove appears to be a bit warped at the face where the door meets the stove in some areas along the bottom, perhaps from over firing. It is not that bad but I would like to align it straight. What is the best way to do this? I read on this forum that people have simply banged it straight with a hammer. Is this the best method or would I need to heat it up (or a combination of both). The thickness of the metal is about 1/8"
That looks pretty badly warped. I dont think it would stay even if you got it straight.
 
Thanks. I would be sure to install with a liner and blockoff plate. Aside from a bit of caution when doing this type of install, is this considered not to code (illegal)? I would be interested in hearing from others who have converted open fireplaces to accept stoves, and I would imagine a percentage of them are like me who have happened to get their hands on a very nice, used stove and decided to install it in their open fireplace.
As long as the liner is done properly and you can meet all clearance requirements there is no problem with it. But it can be very difficult to meet clearance requirements in some installs like this
 
As long as the liner is done properly and you can meet all clearance requirements there is no problem with it. But it can be very difficult to meet clearance requirements in some installs like this

I drew up a rough model of my fireplace and my stove. The stove sits completely inside the firebox, only the thickness of the door protrudes out the front, which is the 2 to 3” shown in the picture. There is slightly less than 16" clearance from the door when closed to the end of the hearth. There is a wood floor at the end of the hearth. I plan on laying a floor mat in front of the hearth anyway. How does something like this look?

That looks pretty badly warped. I dont think it would stay even if you got it straight.

The warp is about 1/8". I figure if I can bang it in at least half that, then a thick gasket will give me a tight seal?

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Thoughts?
 
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