Newbie question: how "big" should my fire be?

[theshortlyfunnys]

Hi everyone,

First post here, but I have enjoyed browsing around and researhcing while searching for my stove.

We just bought a used but generally good condition 1991 Regency R6. I ran the stack straight up (~5' stove pipe + 15' triple wall), and just got her up and running yesterday after passing inspection and replacing firebricks. We have a 2200 sq. Ft. Cape Cod, and this will be our primary heat source, with propane forced air backup (which cost us $450/month during heating season last year, arrrr).

My question is how "big" of a fire we should build. I have been able to sustain flue surface temps at 325, 12" from the stove (happy range according to my thermometer). We have been building smaller fires and have no smoke coming from the stack. I see guys running flue temps quite a bit higher than we are. We tried running the stove overnight last night, but only got about 3 hours burn time. We have had to run the draft pretty much full open to 25% closed to maintain the flue temps. Wood is moderate quality hardwood (mostly maple and cherry) that has been seasoned since March. My moisture meter is on back order, so I don't know moisture content.

Is it possible I should load the box more? We are feeding 2 splits about every hour during the day to maintain interior temp.

Thanks, and I am glad to be part of the community.

 

[nate379]

It's almost certainly way too wet.

 

[Wood Duck]

I am assuming your insert is a newer EPA approved secondary burn type of stove. That would make it similar to mine and many other types of stoves. First, I'd say the size of the fire depends on how much heat you need, and you are smart to start with small fires. However, once the first few test fires are over you'll want to burn in cycles rather than adding a few splits every couple of hours. That is, you'll want to load up the stove and let the wood burn down to coals before reloading. I generally find my stove doesn't burn at its best unless I load up a pretty good load - at least 1/3 to half the firebox from bottom to the secondary burn tubes loaded with wood. For a long burn I'll carefully load the firebox with wood all the way from the ashes up to within about 3 inches of the burn tubes. Of course firewood is very irregular in shape so there are open spaces between the wood, but I try to minimize the open spaces by fitting wood together and putting a few smaller pieces in the gaps between large pieces (this helps get the load burning faster because small pieces take off faster than large ones). My stove top temperature will get way hotter than 300 degrees! Does that answer your question?

 

[theshortlyfunnys]

Hi Wood Duck,

Yes, it is an EPA stove with secondaries, and your answer is quite helpful. So basically, load it more, get it roaring, then close the draft more (to, say, 25-50%)? Is there a "magical" reload time, or is it just a matter of watching the thermometer and getting a feel for it?

My wife gets to load it during the day, and I am sure she would enjoynot loading it so frequently.

The temperature I posted was not stovetop; it was on the flue, 12" up with an external thermometer. I am using single wall pipe. Would it be a good idea to run a stovetop thermometer as well?

 

[firefighterjake]

Hi Wood Duck,

Yes, it is an EPA stove with secondaries, and your answer is quite helpful. So basically, load it more, get it roaring, then close the draft more (to, say, 25-50%)? Is there a "magical" reload time, or is it just a matter of watching the thermometer and getting a feel for it?

My wife gets to load it during the day, and I am sure she would enjoynot loading it so frequently.

The temperature I posted was not stovetop; it was on the flue, 12" up with an external thermometer. I am using single wall pipe. Would it be a good idea to run a stovetop thermometer as well?

By George I think he's got it . . . as stated . . . burn in cycles . . . reload when your coals are say the size of baseballs . . . maybe softballs . . . for me when I reload largely depends on how much heat I need . . . but loading a couple splits every two hours is crazy . . . way too much work for me and you'll end up with a big old firebox full of coals.

Bringing the stove up to temp and then slowly closing down the draft is what will get you both longer burning, more heat and better efficiency . . . most folks here report being able to close the air to 25% . . . some folks can close it down more . . . some less . . . how unseasoned the wood is, draft and temps all play a role here.

I personally like running both a stove top temp and a flue temp . . . they both tell me different things . . . a flue thermo lets me know if my flue gases are too cool (making creosote) or too hot (could ignite the creosote) while the woodstove thermo lets me know if I'm burning too cool (and it's too early to start shutting down the air since I will risk suffocating the fire) or too hot (and approaching a temp that could damage the stove.)

 

[theshortlyfunnys]

I loaded it at about 2/3rds last night at 11, closed the draft rod gradually to about 25% after flue temp hit 375, and let it go. When I woke up at 5, box was still pretty warm (225 at flue), down to coals, and able to relight with minimal effort. House had dropped to 65 but propane had not kicked on yet. Outside temp was 28°F.

Three days into my burning "career", it is at least encouraging.

 

[shawneyboy]

I loaded it at about 2/3rds last night at 11, closed the draft rod gradually to about 25% after flue temp hit 375, and let it go. When I woke up at 5, box was still pretty warm (225 at flue), down to coals, and able to relight with minimal effort. House had dropped to 65 but propane had not kicked on yet. Outside temp was 28°F.

Three days into my burning "career", it is at least encouraging.

Sounds like you are getting there. Wondering what kind of fuel, that will make a huge difference in burn times and temps. Of course this is assuming that all of it is seasoned.

 

[Wood Duck]

The best time to reload is when all the wood is burnt to coals and the coals have burned a while - after the coals are so hot that your wood bursts into flame or smokes a lot during the minute or two it takes to reload, but before the coals are so cool that re-ignition takes too long. It takes a little practice but you'll figure out when the right time is, and it is not like there is a perfect moment, more like a perfect hour. Let your coals give you some heat. In my stove there is an hour or two (maybe more? I never pay enough attention to exactly how long it takes) after the flames die when I still get decent heat from the stove. If it is cold outside I reload sooner, if it is warmer I let the coals burn down more because I don't need as much heat.

 

[theshortlyfunnys]

Thanks for all the info. One more question for this thread and I think I am all set: is it ok to let the flue temp fall when I am "soaking out" the coals? About a half hour after the visible flames have gone out, my flue temp is around 225. It falls to about 200 after another half hour.

Am I correct in thinking that creosote buildup is not so much a concern once all the wood in the stove is reduced to coals?

(ok, so that was actually 2 questions...

 

[Jasper 83]

Thanks for all the info. One more question for this thread and I think I am all set: is it ok to let the flue temp fall when I am "soaking out" the coals? About a half hour after the visible flames have gone out, my flue temp is around 225. It falls to about 200 after another half hour.

Am I correct in thinking that creosote buildup is not so much a concern once all the wood in the stove is reduced to coals?

(ok, so that was actually 2 questions...

That is correct. There is virtually no smoke during the charcoal stage and nothing to create creosote

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I loaded it at about 2/3rds last night at 11, closed the draft rod gradually to about 25% after flue temp hit 375, and let it go. When I woke up at 5, box was still pretty warm (225 at flue), down to coals, and able to relight with minimal effort. House had dropped to 65 but propane had not kicked on yet. Outside temp was 28°F.

Three days into my burning "career", it is at least encouraging.

Welcome to the forum shortly.

How big should your fire be? How much heat do you want? Going to bed? Fill the firebox. Leave draft full open until wood is charred a bit (usually 10-15 minutes depending upon the fuel you are trying to burn). Once charred, turn the draft down. Usually first to around 50% then gradually lower. How much lower depends upon your situation.

 

[theshortlyfunnys]

Thanks guys. All the help is appreciated. Fortunately, it has been mild so far this heating season, which is buying me some time to get it right. I am off to buy wood tomorrow. The county cleared a drainage ditch on my property this spring. Netted me about 12 cords of wood (half still to be cut), mostly black cherry, red oak, and maple. That is next year's stash!

I have already gone two days without propane, and I have heard my wallet give off repeated sighs of relief...

 

[Backwoods Savage]

That is a wonderful sound!