Newbie - US 6039 - adjust agitator speed or fuel ratio and inquiry on depth of fuel/ash in fire box

[goode2shoes]

I'm needing advice/suggestions/clarification on if I should adjust the speed of the agitator or decrease the fuel ratio or use the damper to solve what I think is a problem in my fire box.

I'm not sure if I do have a volume/speed problem but when I asked US Stove what is the typical depth of pellets/ash in the firebox, I was given a cover your butt answer of depends on humidity, speed of pellet burning, altitude, etc. I'm sure all those factors and more apply but I was asking for a general guideline.

The newly augered pellets, the black partially burned pellets & the ash come up to over the axle of the agitator and all the pellets/ash get built up on the firebrick side of the fire box for some reason. The pellets and ash does not appear to be evenly distributed on the front and back of the fire box. I'm taking a fireplace poker and tapping inside the fire box (occasionally) to knock the ash out of the air holes that surround the fire box.

So I was thinking that I should speed up the turning of the agitator (which is on automatic setting right now) so there would not be a build up of pellets/ash taking place.

Then I started thinking that maybe the pellet feed ratio needed to be adjusted to a slower rate.

Then I thought maybe my flame is too lazy even though it does look like a campfire flame. Should I have the damper pulled out when all my settings are on automatic even though I currently have a campfire flame.

I know when the flame is robust (similiar to a furnace flame) there is no build up in the firebox but the flame is tooooo hot because of the hazing on the glass door. But then again there is no ash/fuel problem in the firebox.

If I adjust the speed of the agitator with the AUX Up/Down buttons would that help in the burning of the pellets in a more even manner (front and back of the firebox)?

I'm using 100% premium wood pellets (no fines in bags) and have all my settings on automatic. No FAK/OAK installed (due to open room floorplan). Weekly cleaning/every 8 bags burned.

I am a new novice at this and needing some more advice/suggestions. Thanks for your time and thoughts.

 

[DexterDay]

A campfire flame would seem to be a lazy flame to me. Almost all pellets are "Premium", but pellets are not all the same. Even if they say Premium on the bag. What brand of pellets are they?

Are there any embers and sparks flying up from the pot? How far opened/closed is your damper?

Increasing the air, or decreasing the feed will help. But thats only if the unit is clean and not plugged?

How long have you owned the unit (new or used)? When was the last time the entire stove was cleaned (all ash traps and hidden areas, cleaned and lubed combustion blower)? Also when was your bent cleaned? (Description of vent set-up would help also)

 

[goode2shoes]

A campfire flame would seem to be a lazy flame to me. Almost all pellets are "Premium", but pellets are not all the same. Even if they say Premium on the bag. What brand of pellets are they?

Are there any embers and sparks flying up from the pot? How far opened/closed is your damper?

Increasing the air, or decreasing the feed will help. But thats only if the unit is clean and not plugged?

How long have you owned the unit (new or used)? When was the last time the entire stove was cleaned (all ash traps and hidden areas, cleaned and lubed combustion blower)? Also when was your bent cleaned? (Description of vent set-up would help also)

I'm using Indeck Industries Premium Pellets.

There are a few sparks flying in the pot.

Since everything is set on Automatic, I have not been using the damper. So it has been closed.

I clean the unit every 7 to 8 bags of burning.


I have owned this used unit for just over 3 weeks now.
When I got the unit, I removed 3 panels and cleaned all squirel cages on motors, vacuumed them out and then used air compressor to blow out all air channels from blowers/fans to front of pellet stove.
I clean all ash traps and hidden areas every 7 to 8 bags I burn.
The online manual states to use vegetable spray to lube combustion blower. I would prefer to use WD-40 or 2 in 1 oil but afraid to use either because US Stove states vegetable spray. So I use the V spray on the spindle/shaft end in the squirrel cage area. You know the end of the shaft you can see in the center of the squirrel cage.

Can I use WD-40 or 2 in 1 oil??

I don't know what a "bent" is. Could you please explain.

I'm using DuraVent double layer exhaust system.

I mounted the appliance adapter to the back of the stove then installed 45 degree elbow then 1 foot section, then T trap, then 3 foot vertical, then 1 foot horizontal with 90 degree elbow at end. I clean the T trap every 7 to 8 bags of burning as well.

i hope I answered your questions for you to have a better understanding.

 

[DexterDay]

Even though the stove is in Automatic, the damper should be opened. If its closed all the way, there is very little air getting to your pellets. The inside of the firebox should be a grey color (from the fly ash/thats why I asked about sparks). The air should be throwing little sparks and embers up constantly. Especially when new pellets are dropped into pot.

The flame should be very active (not quite like a blowtorch) but not so slow like a campfire (are the tips black on the flames). The base of the fire should be blue and the tips pretty active.

I meant vent, not bent. Sorry. If you got it used. Have you checked all gaskets (door, ash pan, etc) ? Do the dollar bill test, to see if the bill pulls out easily. Checking in several spots on each side.

As for oil, I would use the 3-n-1 oil (blue can/SAE 20). But use your own discretion. I would think they meant to use Pam for shutting it down and protection over Summer months. Pam for bearings is probably not the best lubricant.

 

[goode2shoes]

Even though the stove is in Automatic, the damper should be opened. If its closed all the way, there is very little air getting to your pellets. The inside of the firebox should be a grey color (from the fly ash/thats why I asked about sparks). The air should be throwing little sparks and embers up constantly. Especially when new pellets are dropped into pot.

The flame should be very active (not quite like a blowtorch) but not so slow like a campfire (are the tips black on the flames). The base of the fire should be blue and the tips pretty active.

I meant vent, not bent. Sorry. If you got it used. Have you checked all gaskets (door, ash pan, etc) ? Do the dollar bill test, to see if the bill pulls out easily. Checking in several spots on each side.

As for oil, I would use the 3-n-1 oil (blue can/SAE 20). But use your own discretion. I would think they meant to use Pam for shutting it down and protection over Summer months. Pam for bearings is probably not the best lubricant.

The tips of the flames are not black. The base of the fire is not blue. You have given me the absolute best description of what the flame should be like!! THANK YOU! That will help me out dramatically!

At first I was using damper and had hot flame and it hazed the glass in the door. I was taking some advice from someone that had me working with it on manual settings. I just could not get the hang of it.


I already changed out the door gasket with Rutland 1/2" gasket. The job was good but there were a few tiny gaps at the seal. I did a temporary fix by wrapping foil around door latch. By thickening the latch, it closed up 99% of the tiny gaps. I took a constructions square and confirmed that there was no warping. I order a 5/8" gasket material from US Stove and I'm going to change it out again this spring.

Thank you so very much for your advice/questions/suggestions!

 

[DexterDay]

The tips being Black is bad. Thats why I asked.

You want a brisk flame, with a blue base and embers and sparks flying from the pot.

I would start with the damper 100% open and close it in 1/8 increments. Waiting at least 15-30 minutes before changing again.

The glass will get hazy/ashy. Some stoves it happens within an hour of cleaning, some within a week. All depends on the type and effectiveness of the Manufacturers airwash system.

If the inside of the firebox has a lot of soot, it needs more air (open damper). If it were white, I would say less air. Takes some time to know what to look for.

Hopefully others with the same model stove will be along shortly. They can tell you where they settings at and compare. Best of luck. As I dont have the stove, I cant tell you what settings or damper adjustment. I am just giving general advise, based on my experiences with stoves and the color of the ash and look of the flame. All stoves burn a little different. My Quadrafire looks like an angry tornado. Where the Englander is like a forward facing bush on fire, and the Fahrenheit has the most original/traditional looking flame. All different, but get the same "color" ash inside the firebox.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Automatic on your stove requires that the damper be fully open, the stove will adjust the combustion blower to match the fuel feed.

On manual the stove runs the combustion blower full speed and you have to use the damper to control the burn.

At least that is what the manual says.

 

[goode2shoes]

Automatic on your stove requires that the damper be fully open, the stove will adjust the combustion blower to match the fuel feed.

On manual the stove runs the combustion blower full speed and you have to use the damper to control the burn.

At least that is what the manual says.

Your statement of damper being fully open when in Automatic is not stated in the "online" manual.

In fact, the manual that is online at US Stove is for the A,B,C button panel, not the 4 button panel on my unit.

Along with what is online is basically raw information for installation and first time liting fire. Of course there is the part(s) diagram and cross reference to order number of each part.

I bet there is a manual that I have never seen on properly running this unit with explanations/descriptions of other issues.

But I am going to be starting another fire this evening and I'll adjust the damper to get the flame in the fire box to be blue and see how that does. I'll let you know if I have to pull the damper out fully to get that blue flame.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Automatic on your stove requires that the damper be fully open, the stove will adjust the combustion blower to match the fuel feed.

On manual the stove runs the combustion blower full speed and you have to use the damper to control the burn.

At least that is what the manual says.

Your statement of damper being fully open when in Automatic is not stated in the "online" manual.

In fact, the manual that is online at US Stove is for the A,B,C button panel, not the 4 button panel on my unit.

Along with what is online is basically raw information for installation and first time liting fire. Of course there is the part(s) diagram and cross reference to order number of each part.

I bet there is a manual that I have never seen on properly running this unit with explanations/descriptions of other issues.

But I am going to be starting another fire this evening and I'll adjust the damper to get the flame in the fire box to be blue and see how that does. I'll let you know if I have to pull the damper out fully to get that blue flame.

I'm just going by what I've read, they and everyone else seems to play musical pieces, USSC in particular as they have blended Breckwell stuff into their line.

I will depend upon the control unit on your stove. You would never close a damper all the way on any setting other than low, usually the damper doesn't completely block air intake through the intake port on the stove.

That is why when you mentioned damper and automatic I popped in. The stove will likely burn fine on lower settings and get progressively worse the higher the heat range goes and from other USSC issues dealing with air flow.