Newbie with some questions and tree ID

[morglum_s]

We just finished our 1st season burning, and I just scored my 1st big woodpile for future seasons (Probably 12-13). A guy near my work cut down a cluster of "Maple" trees and I took the rounds after the tree guy was done. It looks like I got a little under 2 cord, and will have some splitting ahead of me this summer. A couple of questions:

Does a cord of rounds == a cord once split?

I was able split one of the large rounds with my el Cheapo maul/axe, but I am thinking some of the ones > 16" in diameter I am going to need some wedges. Should I get "grenades" or just regular v shaped wedges?

Our stove is smaller and only takes splits 12-13", does it make sense to cut the longer rounds before splitting or split and then cut?

I've attached some pics, see if you can ID this. He said Maple, but did not know what kind. The outer wood is pretty light, almost white, and the core is more brown, maybe a a slight red tinge. We burned Fir and Juniper this last season, and I know it's not either of those. Other than comparing it to our hardwood maple floors, I am totally at a loss. ..(These were in Vancouver WA)

Thanks.

-Morgan

 

[woodsmaster]

not sure what kind of wood you have. I'm thinking a cord of rounds will be more than a cord once split. I've never actually compared before and after spliting. Let us Know what you find out after you split it.

 

[Remmy122]

Cut your rounds now. Its easier/safer and less work. (think one cut vrs 5-6 cuts at a time)

Im intresed in the response to the wedge question. My BIL gave me one and Im going to buy another one and keep going back in forth on which to get.

Im no cord calculator, but Im sure that a cord of rounds is bigger than 1 cord split.

 

[mecreature]

Cut the rounds first.
If you are cutting them to 12 or 13" you might not need a wedge at all unless you have some narly ones.
Stack it loose to get some good air flow around it.

 

[Woody Stover]

I've used the grenade wedge in the past. As I remember, it worked pretty well. I would have a grenade on hand, as well as a few wedges of varying thickness.
These days, if I can't split it with an ax, it's going on the power splitter pile.
No clue on the wood type; I'm not well-versed on the West Coast woods.

 

[nrford]

Alder

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Welcome to the forum morglum_s.

That wood should split fairly easy with splitting maul. On wedges, I'd recommend just the V shaped wedges. For really gnarly stuff, I always liked to have 3 wedges. Sometimes I would drive two wedges right together to make it split apart wider. Sometimes you need an extra wedge in case you get one hung up.

I would definitely cut to length before splitting.

It does appear to be a type of maple. nrford is probably right with alder. It should not split hard. Decent fires but not long lasting. Still good wood for your area.

 

[Wood Duck]

I think that tree is either Norway Maple or Sycamore Maple. We don't see many Sycamore Maple planted in the east, perhaps becasue Norway Maple grows so well here so it is the invasive exotic maple of choise. Maybe in Portland to go-to invasive tree is Sycamore Maple. Anyway, the bark seems right for Sycamore Maple and the wood looks like maple to me.

 

[cygnus]

You should have no trouble splitting a 12" long round of any diameter.

 

[dave11]

Sure looks like Norway Maple to me. I just got done splitting one, but it could be another type of maple, as there are many, of course.

I would definitely keep a wood grenade on hand if you're going to split much by hand. Regular wedges just won't penetrate as well into the harder woods, or those with twisted grain. I use a wood grenade along with two standard wedges. You need a couple, to occasionally rescue one of the others.

 

[Elderthewelder]

That's Big Leaf Maple, That's what we have here in the Pacific Northwest ( OP is from Portland Oregon, not Portland Maine)

Most of these Maples out here always have the moss on them because the bark is rich in calcium and moisture

I scored a huge tree of it last summer that a tree service took down, going to burn it next season

Google Big Leaf Maple and you will find out all about it

 

[morglum_s]

Thanks for the all pointers! So yes I will cut to size before splitting, and maybe have a couple of wedges on hand.

Now to build a wood shed...

-m

 

[Bigg_Redd]

We just finished our 1st season burning, and I just scored my 1st big woodpile for future seasons (Probably 12-13). A guy near my work cut down a cluster of "Maple" trees and I took the rounds after the tree guy was done. It looks like I got a little under 2 cord, and will have some splitting ahead of me this summer. A couple of questions:

Does a cord of rounds == a cord once split? More or less

I was able split one of the large rounds with my el Cheapo maul/axe, but I am thinking some of the ones > 16" in diameter I am going to need some wedges. Should I get "grenades" or just regular v shaped wedges? Have you actually tried splitting it? Big Leaf Maple splits pretty easy when green

Our stove is smaller and only takes splits 12-13", does it make sense to cut the longer rounds before splitting or split and then cut? Shorter rounds = easier to split, and, sawing rounds = less cutting

I've attached some pics, see if you can ID this. He said Maple, but did not know what kind. The outer wood is pretty light, almost white, and the core is more brown, maybe a a slight red tinge. We burned Fir and Juniper this last season, and I know it's not either of those. Other than comparing it to our hardwood maple floors, I am totally at a loss. ..(These were in Vancouver WA) It's Big Leaf Maple.

Thanks.

-Morgan

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Alder

It's not Alder