'Normal' running temps on BKK, Summit, Steel Hybrid or ??

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Ya lost me somewhere. Pretend I'm stupid. :rolleyes:
Are you saying one stove that an exterior of 500 can be a lot hotter than another stove that has an exterior of 500 - assuming they are the same size? And the heat is coming from - where? o_O Please explain a little better for the unsmart people. So the top is hot but the rest isn't?

Cat stoves have the cat right under the top. When you are burning "low", the vast majority of the heat is coming from the cat burning the smoke. That is right under the stovetop, so the stovetop is hot. However, the sides and especially the glass is not kicking off any heat to speak of. For example, I can melt my face off with my PH at 500 degrees if I stick it in front of the glass with the secondaries cranking. There is so much heat coming off the entire stove that I can see heat waves. With a cat burn at 500 degree stovetop, I can briefly touch the glass and can actually place my hand on the side of the stove without getting burned. The way to visualize it is stovetip area at 500 degrees versus the entire surface area of the stove at 500 degrees. Obviously, that is not scientific but I think it's a reasonable way to picture it.
 
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In a nutshell, when burning low in a BK, yes - the area right over the cat is hot, but the rest isn't.
I think this is what makes the blowers important on a blaze king. You can still get good usable heat blowing off that hot cat when burning low.
 
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Sooo - I can't compare 500 vs 500, can't compare BTUs since each mfg seems to calculate them differently, can't compare a 4 cu ft vs a 4 cu ft. All the dealers i have been to are more concerned about selling the stoves they like (AKA in stock/more profitable). I've been burning wood for 30 yrs and I am having so much trouble, it's not wonder that newbies get confused too.

It would be nice to install one and if it doesn't perform, then buy another one. I've noticed that a lot of people on this forum appear to have done that but I can't afford that luxury. I'm still stumped.;?;?
 
There aren't many 4 cu ft stoves to compare with period. You can compare similarly designed 3 cu ft stoves and be reasonably assured that they are going to perform similarly. if comparing cats to other cats and non-cats to other non-cats. This is not as complicated as some might make it.
 
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Sooo - I can't compare 500 vs 500, can't compare BTUs since each mfg seems to calculate them differently, can't compare a 4 cu ft vs a 4 cu ft. All the dealers i have been to are more concerned about selling the stoves they like (AKA in stock/more profitable). I've been burning wood for 30 yrs and I am having so much trouble, it's not wonder that newbies get confused too.

It would be nice to install one and if it doesn't perform, then buy another one. I've noticed that a lot of people on this forum appear to have done that but I can't afford that luxury. I'm still stumped.;?;?

For me here outside Fredericton, I knew I could heat my place with a 2.25 cu ft box, just couldn't keep it at a steady temp with the short(er) burn cycles of a tube stove. When we had the frigid temps back in late Dec, I happened to be on holidays and kept the stove fed throughout the day and it was keeping it warm in here, so I knew I needed something that could hold a steady stove top of 500 - 600F for 10 - 12 hours before needing to reload.

I guess what I am trying to say is that based on everything I read and everything I have seen so far in the short time I've owned my own BK, you can select a BK based on a combination of firebox size and desired stove top temp over a 10 - 12 hour cycle. I know the diehards / experienced BK owners will disagree, but as long as you're realistic in your expectations (i.e. not expecting 600F stove top for 24 hours on 2 splits ;) ), it can be done.

Last night, it was -12C here. I put 6 largish splits in at 5 pm, set the dial to 1.25 and then turned it up to just below the "n" in normal at 930 pm. Come 530 am, it's 21C over the entire house, there is still about half the load left, the stove top is hovering around 350 - 400F and when I turn it down before leaving for work, I'll still have useable heat for another 10 hours or so.

There's no magic with a BK, but there is a monstrous level of flexibility available which I think is the real attraction to these stoves.
 
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Doug,
Don't forget that Woodstock has a 6 month return policy. It could be a way to try one but get out if it does not work out. Keep in mind that this is based off what I hear from other members. I would like to try one but have trouble spending that kind of money for a stove.
Good luck.
 
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Doug,
Don't forget that Woodstock has a 6 month return policy. It could be a way to try one but get out if it does not work out. Keep in mind that this is based off what I hear from other members. I would like to try one but have trouble spending that kind of money for a stove.
Good luck.

If you read the policy at their website, they will buy it back and cover the costs of return shipping, but you would not get paid back any costs you paid to have it shipped to you in the first place.
 
If you read the policy at their website, they will buy it back and cover the costs of return shipping, but you would not get paid back any costs you paid to have it shipped to you in the first place.

That's way beyond fair.
 
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If you read the policy at their website, they will buy it back and cover the costs of return shipping, but you would not get paid back any costs you paid to have it shipped to you in the first place.

Picking up a stove and installing it is not fun either. You will likely have to acquire stove pipe parts that can't be returned. Then you are supposed to get permits for the installation and that costs me like 60$ each time plus taking time off work for inspection. The PH is like 700#, you don't just try it out like a pair of shoes and take them back if they don't fit right.

True, it is a unique deal that other manufacturers do not offer but I don't consider it as quite the benefit that others seem to think it is. In fact, I don't know if I like the idea. When you return that stove the value has dropped and woodstock has to take a loss on that when they resell it as used or refurbished. Who do you think that loss gets passed on to? The next buyer.

For the OP, a big stove at 500 degrees all day beats the heck out of a smaller stove that can peak out at 600 for a few hours per 8 hour load cycle. Consider the constant lower temp output as superior.
 
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For the OP, a big stove at 500 degrees all day beats the heck out of a smaller stove that can peak out at 600 for a few hours per 8 hour load cycle. Consider the constant lower temp output as superior.

Exactly!
 
For the OP, a big stove at 500 degrees all day beats the heck out of a smaller stove that can peak out at 600 for a few hours per 8 hour load cycle. Consider the constant lower temp output as superior.
Well, not so fast. With my stove, I am re-loading every few hours to get a constant 600+ I don't mind that in cold weather but I can't keep the room warm enough when it's super cold and even at a constant 600. That is why the question.

I phoned Woodstock and they are saying that the PH or SH top should be 650 tops and normal running 450 to 650.

Blaze King is saying the King can go to 750 or more.

Good conversations with both but Blaze King helped me put the BTU into a bit more perspective.
 
Well, not so fast. With my stove, I am re-loading every few hours to get a constant 600+ I don't mind that in cold weather but I can't keep the room warm enough when it's super cold and even at a constant 600. That is why the question.

I phoned Woodstock and they are saying that the PH or SH top should be 650 tops and normal running 450 to 650.

Blaze King is saying the King can go to 750 or more.

Good conversations with both but Blaze King helped me put the BTU into a bit more perspective.

You're talking to the right companies. Your big needs are most likely to be accomplished by a stove from one of them. Both make excellent products with great reputations.

So have you considered other improvements to the home that would allow you to get by with less stove output? You'll be going through a lot of wood.
 
So have you considered other improvements to the home that would allow you to get by with less stove output? You'll be going through a lot of wood.
The house is actually super insulated. The problem is that we had one huge window wall that has lowE-Argon windows but that still is not good for heat loss. The windows provide us with fantastic solar gain when it is sunny and an unbelievable view but suck heat the rest of the time. I spent years trying to figure out how to do shutters or thermal curtains but gave up as everything was too problematic. I've got all the free wood I can possible ever burn without cutting a live tree, so the windows and the beauty they provide will stay.
 
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"Highbeam, post: 1677881, member: 1382"]

True, it is a unique deal that other manufacturers do not offer but I don't consider it as quite the benefit that others seem to think it is. In fact, I don't know if I like the idea. When you return that stove the value has dropped and woodstock has to take a loss on that when they resell it as used or refurbished. Who do you think that loss gets passed on to? The next buyer.


I agree with the part its a pain to return a 700# stove (never did hat, hopefully never will) but I think what you are missing is their sales volume is likely higher to compensate for the returns. Sure, you can consider it a bit of "an insurance policy" that costs everybody a little, but if their net profits due to higher sales over compensates, everybody wins. I would argue the stoves cost less due to this policy.

I've read many times on this forum "well at least I can return it in 6 months if it does not work out" and this likely swayed many buyers to go with WS. $$$$CASHINGGGGGG$$$$$
 
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I agree with the part its a pain to return a 700# stove (never did hat, hopefully never will) but I think what you are missing is their sales volume is likely higher to compensate for the returns. Sure, you can consider it a bit of "an insurance policy" that costs everybody a little, but if their net profits due to higher sales over compensates, everybody wins. I would argue the stoves cost less due to this policy.

I've read many times on this forum "well at least I can return it in 6 months if it does not work out" and this likely swayed many buyers to go with WS. $$$$CASHINGGGGGG$$$$$

A decent argument is that the policy makes more profit in increased sales than it costs the company in returns. However, if the profit margin is fixed then the cost of the return policy never goes away, it only shrinks on a per stove basis as sales increase.
 
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Well, not so fast. With my stove, I am re-loading every few hours to get a constant 600+ I don't mind that in cold weather but I can't keep the room warm enough when it's super cold and even at a constant 600. That is why the question.

This says you need another stove, not just a different one.

Two BKs on staggered 24 hour cycles. Reload one every twelve
hours ;)
 
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Moving a 750 pound stove is no fun. Three stove that might fit your needs are the PH, BKK, and the Regency 5100
 
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