'nuther cross-cut saw question

While it seems that we have a good number of people with knowlege on using cross-cut saws for woodcutting I thought I'd fuel the interest with another question.

Once you have a tree on the ground - how to you go about bucking it without pinching the saw?

I alway have troubles with this part. The tree's crown is still attached so I can't roll the logs with a log jack. With a chainsaw I'll just find a spot where I can cut from underneath allowing the cut to open up as the tree settles. But this isn't alwas possible with a 2-man saw.

You can use a wedge in the top of the cut. That won't eliminate every issue but it should allow you to get the job done. Of course, every tree and situation is a bit different. What I often do is cut some rounds and roll them under the tree bole to support it when I cut it - so you may have to cut some of the branches/crown first to get those rounds.

Yes, I've thought of putting a wedge behind the saw. Perhaps this is my excuse for buying a felling saw - bucking saws are so broad that the cut pinches before you can get a wedge behind it.

I've done the support thing with rounds too - but it's tough when the tree is still whole. Often at this point it is too heavy to lift to get those rounds underneath.

I find myself trimming all the limbs first (those that are off the ground) and then working from the crown back to the trunk. I also undercut wherever space allows.

Much like WoodPorn I either limb first or undercut.

Gotya...

i wonder if you could use a small jack?

Since I haven't figured out how to bore cut with my crosscut saw, I'll find a place with some air space beneath the log and cut compression first until the kerf starts to close. Then I'll offset my undercut, underbucking with an axe handle -- (old timey method). Key is to stick that axe real tight. Helps to have a well sharpened axe with a narrow profile.

Cool ATsawyer! That's the kind of lost secrets I was hoping to see.

Got anymore?

Generally the best working saws will be found on Ebay or yard sales. Taper or crescent ground, good steel, well made. Modern saws with the exception of the pricier Tuatahi or timbersports racing blades will be a disappointment. They can be made to cut, but will dull faster and bend/kink more easily. They will also arrive poorly filed and poorly set.

My best saw was reportedly a wedding gift. The family had a big price on it as it was in great condition and has readdy to cut... It didn't sell.

I stopped by a couple weeks after the sale, listened to the stories. and got it for what the rougher one's bring in junk shops. It ment something to the folks that the saw would be appreciated and cared for.

ATB,
Mike

is this the place to post a picture of mine?

OMG A hand saw! I thought those were just for decorations!




KC

It's decoratin' the door can't ya see?

But yes some of us still use 'em.

Makes me sick to think of the old saws sold at the grandparents sale and later at my parents sale when they moved off the farm. At the time, neither my brother or I were interested.

Saws with plenty of back like the pic can often be opperated by one man.

I keep nice (not beat up) wedges in my back pocket and use them frequently. I've also been known to adjust the lay of the log. position other wood under the log before making thhe dicey cuts. A front end loader or pick-up with chains can also be used to get one out of trouble... ; )

There are Knuckle Guards that faster under the pillar handles and extend paralel to the handles on some saws...

ATB,
Mike