OAK to My BK?

[Hiram Maxim]

Well because of health reasons I never got around to installing an Outside Air Connection for my BK.

While I'm starting to plan it, running PVC approx. 20 feet from an outside wall in the basement, I'm wondering how many of you insulated your OAK piping so it doesnt radiate cold air into Your living space??

To me this seems like a no brainer but what the hell do I know?

Spray Foam,Fiberglass bats????????

Thank you,Hiram

 

[North of 60]

Hiram, hope your OK, Just scheduled back maintenance? :cheese:
As for your OAK, make sure you adapt to metal venting min 5ft from the appliance.
Make an upside down p-trap where in enters your home, this will stop natural convection and siphoning.
Use a 1.5" fiber glass wrap with shiny back and 3m aluminum tape to insulate your run.
This will never come apart and look like crap. You may need someone to do all the work if this is in the crawl space. ;-)
Health UP my friend.
Cheers

 

[Highbeam]

I didn't insulate but I only have about 18" in my living space. For a long run I would be more worried about condensation and dripping than worried about the 20' pipe stealing house heat. So yes, regulart duct insulation shoudl be fine. At 20' you are planning on 4" right?

 

[Hiram Maxim]

Hiram, hope your OK, Just scheduled back maintenance? :cheese:
As for your OAK, make sure you adapt to metal venting min 5ft from the appliance.
Make an upside down p-trap where in enters your home, this will stop natural convection and siphoning.
Use a 1.5" fiber glass wrap with shiny back and 3m aluminum tape to insulate your run.
This will never come apart and look like crap. You may need someone to do all the work if this is in the crawl space. ;-)
Health UP my friend.
Cheers

I'm doing much much better thx.

How is your back doing?

I like the p trap idea. I'm also going to put a "shut off" on the outside of the house.

The crawl is about 5 ft tall so I'm hoping I should be good.

Good info.

 

[Hiram Maxim]

I didn't insulate but I only have about 18" in my living space. For a long run I would be more worried about condensation and dripping than worried about the 20' pipe stealing house heat. So yes, regulart duct insulation shoudl be fine. At 20' you are planning on 4" right?

Yes 4"

The run will be 17 feet!

 

[SolarAndWood]

What is the motivator for the OAK?

 

[rdust]

What is the motivator for the OAK?

I think it's because he tightened the house up in the remodel, plus when he's burning two stoves on those rare occasions it probably couldn't hurt to have some make up air.

 

[SolarAndWood]

I think it's because he tightened the house up in the remodel

I am looking forward to that problem.

 

[rdust]

I am looking forward to that problem.

That and burning 1/3-1/2 the wood you currently torch a winter.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Yep, Hiram's story was a good motivator. Hopefully, I'll see a good return from this year's efforts this winter.

 

[BrowningBAR]

I think it's because he tightened the house up in the remodel

I am looking forward to that problem.

No kidding. I would welcome the day when I have to ponder the need for an OAK.

 

[cptoneleg]

I think it's because he tightened the house up in the remodel

I am looking forward to that problem.

No kidding. I would welcome the day when I have to ponder the need for an OAK.

I 2nd that no shortage of a draft in this old house.

 

[BrowningBAR]

I think it's because he tightened the house up in the remodel

I am looking forward to that problem.

No kidding. I would welcome the day when I have to ponder the need for an OAK.

I 2nd that no shortage of a draft in this old house.

Thank god this thing isn't a boat. The damn thing would have sunk years ago.

 

[North of 60]

The draftier the house the more it would be nice to know where your cold air is coming in from. No point adding to it. Less frost build up etc... in those areas. My climate anyhow.
Cheers.

 

[BrowningBAR]

The draftier the house the more it would be nice to know where your cold air is coming from.

Put me down for 'everywhere'.

Windows.
Doors.
Floors.
Walls.
Attic.

The Attic will be taken care of next spring when the garage is built and the attic is cleared out. Doors I am working on this fall. Windows, walls, and floors? Not sure.

It's not a wind tunnel by any means (well, anymore). But I am well aware of the weak points.

 

[Todd]

Is your OAK run for a basement install? Watch out for those long OAK basement runs Mine is about the same length as yours and I fought with it for some time trying to keep that cold air from rushing down from the sill plate to the stove. A straight shot will really push the cold air into the stove when you really want the stove to draw it in. I installed a big U in the run and it didn't even slow it down, also tried a damper but it was just another thing to keep track of. I think I got it licked now by reducing the intake on the outside of the house from 4" to 3" and also put a downward 90 elbow before it enters the house at the sill plate.

 

[Hiram Maxim]

Is your OAK run for a basement install? Watch out for those long OAK basement runs Mine is about the same length as yours and I fought with it for some time trying to keep that cold air from rushing down from the sill plate to the stove. A straight shot will really push the cold air into the stove when you really want the stove to draw it in. I installed a big U in the run and it didn't even slow it down, also tried a damper but it was just another thing to keep track of. I think I got it licked now by reducing the intake on the outside of the house from 4" to 3" and also put a downward 90 elbow before it enters the house at the sill plate.

Todd, After reading Your original post a few years ago, its burned into my memory.

No the BK is on the Main floor, with the OAK coming up from a hole in the hearth from the basement.

In fact every time I see a post about an OAK I immediately think of You.lol

Cheers,Hiram

 

[Hiram Maxim]

What is the motivator for the OAK?

I think it's because he tightened the house up in the remodel, plus when he's burning two stoves on those rare occasions it probably couldn't hurt to have some make up air.

Exactly!

However I will never burn 2 stoves together again, it was so crazy hot, even at close to 0° outside.

I can feel fresh air come from the OAK for the furnace and the Hot water heater in the basement. Its a large vent which is for sure overkill (volume)for my 80% NG furnace.


When I built my Hearth and planned the stove, the OAK was figured into the equation.

So I think its only reasonable to assume it will be way better to use outside air for combustion.

Solar did you get the drywall hung?

Hiram

 

[Highbeam]

So this is a 5' crawlspace? or actual basement? If it is ventilated and unconditioned then it doesn't need an OAK run to the outdoors.

I don't believe in "needing" an OAK before you install one. Instead, the default installation should have one unless it is deemed too costly or difficult. There are just too many benefits.

 

[Hiram Maxim]

So this is a 5' crawlspace? or actual basement? If it is ventilated and unconditioned then it doesn't need an OAK run to the outdoors.

I don't believe in "needing" an OAK before you install one. Instead, the default installation should have one unless it is deemed too costly or difficult. There are just too many benefits.

Highbeam,

There is actual basement under the stove (NG furnace is almost directly below), however to go to the Eastern side of the home there is about 10 ft of crawls space that is not vented to the outside and is semi conditioned. Half the basement is finished, half is cinder block and my home has a large crawl space under all 3 bedrooms and two bathrooms.

I plan on doing ridged foam and spray foam in the crawl in the future to further my insulating sealing project....

The Cost of the OAK is going to be about $50 in material and a bunch of my time!

I will post pictures if You guys want?

Thanks for your input....Hiram

 

[jeff_t]

COMBUSTION AIR INTAKE
Located on the back of the stove, on the centerline. Combustion air is drawn into this opening, through the thermostat and into the firebox.

From the Blaze King manual. Does the OAK affect thermostat operation?

 

[Hiram Maxim]

COMBUSTION AIR INTAKE
Located on the back of the stove, on the centerline. Combustion air is drawn into this opening, through the thermostat and into the firebox.

From the Blaze King manual. Does the OAK affect thermostat operation?

An excellent question?

No idea?

 

[mhrischuk]

I just installed two big stoves in my house. It's a modern home with pretty good sealing except for the 45 recessed lights scattered throughout the house. I decided against an OAK because in my research I came to the conclusion that there is a better chance of no issues by not installing one than installing one. If I think my stoves are starving for air and/or we experience cold drafts in other rooms I might revisit. Until then why bother?
There are just to many variables with pressure differentials between the inside and the outside air.

This is interesting reading..

http://woodheat.org/the-outdoor-air-myth-exposed.html

 

[SolarAndWood]

Solar did you get the drywall hung?

lol, no. I have most of the last wall sheeted/felted/foamed/tyveked and partially sided. 6 more windows to install and the rest of the siding on that wall to finish before I move inside. I'll have the exterior done in the next couple weeks and then start on the interior.

 

[nate379]

Never insulated mine, but it's only about 12-16" long. It does get nice and frosty when it's below zero out though.

I needed an OAK for sure. I actually had to add venting from my attic to the house to make it more drafty. If the dryer and bath fans where going it was hard to close the front door even from the vacuum created in teh house.