Oakwood Afterbuner issue need some help/measurements

[Dill]

So I was the one who figured out that you have to clean the afterburner on a regular basis. I cleaned it out in the early spring and started burning again is fall with no issues. Wednesday night we got the strong smoke smell upstairs that signals a plugged AB. When I pulled it apart last time it was pretty obvious that was the last time I was going to get it back in and out in one piece. I bought the new updated part today. And I'm trying to put the stove back together and the new design seems to be a 1/4 of inch longer than the original and I can't get the back piece of the stove far enough in. So now I'm looking at 2 nights of oil heat and I'm not exactly happy. Anyone else who has done this swap has an issue or is aware of a fix? Thanks

 

[leeave96]

What is an afterburner?

 

[Dill]

Sorry combustion chamber is the actual term

 

[branchburner]

Hey Dill, are you sure the piece is all the way forward when you put it back in? Just wondering if it is caught on an edge, or is hitting a small piece of debris.

Someone posted about getting the new, improved part but I don't recall he had trouble.

 

[branchburner]

What is an afterburner?

It's the secondary burn chamber in a downdraft-style stove, made of a refractory material that is a bit fragile and becomes brittle and crumbly with use (although the new VC 2 in 1 has a much sturdier version).

 

[Dill]

From what I can feel around the edges it seems to be right up against the bricks in the back. And the gap is uniform all around the new piece, its right on at a 1/4 of an inch.

 

[branchburner]

Maybe try this: pull all the bricks out of the front with the AB out, so the stove is just a hollow shell. Then inspect the area where the AB meets the metal to see if there is any obstruction. Then try putting the AB in the back again, so you can actually see where it meets. And then (assuming you get the AB in ok) put the bricks in the front afterwards as the last step.

 

[Dill]

Ok so I've got it figured out. I pulled all the bricks out. Mainly just so I could feel like I was accomplishing something more than burning oil. Around the new designed afterburner package, is a white softer type of material than the rest of the AB. Evidently this is a gasket that must be crushed into place. After spending 300 bucks I wasn't in that big a hurry to just crush stuff. However when I took the bricks out that the AB wasn't centered in the hole. It took a couple tries and there is more wiggle room than I would have guessed. But it came down to getting some gasket on both sides and then just tightening the back plate down in diagonal lug-nutesque sequence. More of a PIA than the old style but it also seems much much beefier, especially the center with the holes, if I had been thinking ahead and not just ripping up the old one I would have taken comparison shots, but I really thought it would just be an in and out like its been the last couple times.

 

[branchburner]

Glad you got it in - hope it lasts longer than the old ones. I am going to try removing mine only every other year, but vacuum it thoroughly several times a season by removing the front bricks for better access. Hopefully that will do it - the ash seems to pile up pretty quick in there.

 

[jdonna]

Interesting they came up with an update on the AB. Got a picture of it by chance? So they beefed up the throat opening? Please post performance observations when you get a chance and after burner temps with the new AB package.

I am curious to see if they restricted the air flow in the AB or increased it.

Glad you figured it out. I know talking to Harman is a challenge.