OK, block off plate/fireback /stove depth in fireplace question.

[Planeweird]

Got my Jotul F3 CB yesterday and it fits quite nicely in the opening of my fireplace. In fact, I think I could just about fit it all the way inside and vent out the top if I want(as opposed to a Tee out the back). That being said, it does seem logical to have the stove sitting out in front of the opening for more radiant heating.
However, I'm kicking arounf the idea of lining the entire fireplace opening with a fabricated stainless steel fireback and block off plate. SOOOO....would that be reflective enough to throw the heat out into the room if I chose to sink the stove further into the opening instead of leaving it out front?

 

[summit]

you'll get a better result if you leave it out front; also it will be easier to clean. the top of that stove is removable, so by lifting off the top you can snake a vac hose into the tee to suck out any soot. if it goes into the top with it stuffed into the fp, then you'll have to uninstall/ reinstall every year to properly empty out the soot.

 

[Planeweird]

Summit,

Now THAT makes absolute sense to mean and makes my decision easy. Thank you. Love that reasoning.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

vertical flue exit option may draft better, even if you lose a tiny bit of heat having the unit inserted

when cleaning all the soot should end up in the unit vs in a tee that needs cleaning too...

 

[BrotherBart]

vertical flue exit option may draft better, even if you lose a tiny bit of heat having the unit inserted

when cleaning all the soot should end up in the unit vs in a tee that needs cleaning too...

With the F3 CB all the soot would end up trapped on top of the baffle which is bolted in cast iron and cannot be removed through the firebox. The only way you would get it out is to squeeze your hand between the door frame/airwash lip and the baffle, a tight fit, and drag the stuff out into the floor of the house. Infinately easier to either vacuum it out with the top off or through the flue collar after taking the pipe off. In fact it is better to not take the top off given the alignment problems some have had with the gasket for the top.

Put that pretty blue puppy out front. Of course you will still probably have to slide it out some to clean-out the tee.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

vertical flue exit option may draft better, even if you lose a tiny bit of heat having the unit inserted

when cleaning all the soot should end up in the unit vs in a tee that needs cleaning too...

With the F3 CB all the soot would end up trapped on top of the baffle which is bolted in cast iron and cannot be removed through the firebox.
quote]

i wonder why any maker offers a model with a fixed baffle, or one that cant be removed thru the firebox?, what a pita
good looking out BrotherBart!

 

[BrotherBart]

That is why they have a removable top. The F3 is made to be free standing and if you have to take the pipe off of a free stander to clean the pipe then just lifting the top off of the stove isn't a problem. It is actually easier than pulling any of the baffles and tubes out of the others that I have seen with the possible exception of the PE stoves. But what I hear is that the PE baffles are heavy suckers to hold at arms length in the fire box putting it back together.

The F3 just was not made to be inserted into short fireplaces.

 

[Planeweird]

vertical flue exit option may draft better, even if you lose a tiny bit of heat having the unit inserted

when cleaning all the soot should end up in the unit vs in a tee that needs cleaning too...

With the F3 CB all the soot would end up trapped on top of the baffle which is bolted in cast iron and cannot be removed through the firebox. The only way you would get it out is to squeeze your hand between the door frame/airwash lip and the baffle, a tight fit, and drag the stuff out into the floor of the house. Infinately easier to either vacuum it out with the top off or through the flue collar after taking the pipe off. In fact it is better to not take the top off given the alignment problems some have had with the gasket for the top.

Put that pretty blue puppy out front. Of course you will still probably have to slide it out some to clean-out the tee.

Bart,
I'm not at home to look at this. What do you mean alignment of the gasket on top being an issue? Is it a poor design or do people just not pay close enough attention when putting it back together?

 

[BrotherBart]

Bart,
I'm not at home to look at this. What do you mean alignment of the gasket on top being an issue? Is it a poor design or do people just not pay close enough attention when putting it back together?

Ya just have to make sure the gasket is tightly sealed all around for the top of the stove. If not it causes the stove to heat unevenly due to cooler air coming in over the baffle. BeGreen was the first one to wrestle with it and later due to his experience I knew where to look when it happened with mine.

Not a design defect. Ya just need to make sure the top is on it right. The top will go on two ways. At the factory it was put on one way and that imprints the gasket so it needs to go back on that same way.

One of the reasons I am such a fan of steel stoves. Weld it in place and it ain't gonna move.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

That is why they have a removable top. The F3 is made to be free standing and if you have to take the pipe off of a free stander to clean the pipe then just lifting the top off of the stove isn't a problem. It is actually easier than pulling any of the baffles and tubes out of the others that I have seen with the possible exception of the PE stoves. But what I hear is that the PE baffles are heavy suckers to hold at arms length in the fire box putting it back together.

The F3 just was not made to be inserted into short fireplaces.

thanks for the explaination

pacific energy baffles are heavy, but the time saved compared to removing baffles in other models is well worth it. plus the heavy ga stainless means with responsible use the baffles in PE last a long time. i see 20yr old baffles in fine shape. the baffle is part of the secondary combustion system not just a deflector...smart/simple design

 

[begreen]

I've dealt with both and like both the Jotul and PE designs. If I remember right, all Jotul stoves have removable tops because a British reg requires this. Seems their chimneysweeps have been cleaning for many generations and require this of all stoves from what I've read. Once you know what to look for when repositioning the Jotul top, it's no big deal. But this detail is easy to miss for a first-timer. I did, first try.

Our current stove has the biggest, heaviest PE baffle. It is stout and a bit heavier than it might first appear. But is doesn't take a man and a boy to remove or return to its place. I'm passing the 6th decade and handled it fine. Actually I found its beefy construction reassuring.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

the current replacement baffles for the pe are extremely well made, quality shows!
nice to see a brand keeping its standards up.
sorry for the derail ther Plainwierd...

 

[summit]

its not a big deal to remove/replace the top of the #3... there are 2 alan wrench set screws (one on each side) that you loosen to remove the top, when you put it back on, just make sure they go gback thru their respective holes, and you will know it is aligned properly.

 

[begreen]

From the moldy oldies archive. Thread #46!

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/46/