Operating Quadra-Fire Isle Royale without smoke coming out doors

[Baron62]

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. BTW nice community and site.

Anyways, I'm, a new owner to the Isle Royale (IR). I purchased it based upon the the local dealer advice and the many positive comments on this site. This stove is replacing a VC Intrepid stove which I had for 10 plus years but just started running 24/7. We wanted the bigger stove so we didn't have to load so often and we liked the top load feature. We have 2500 square foot house with a somewhat open plan and a central kitchen installation.

I burned the stove for the first time and noticed that it is hard to open the top or front doors while the stove is going a good clip without getting a small amount of smoke in the room. On my old VC I could open any time with no smoke at all coming out. Should I be operating this big IR differently to avoid smoke? We like zero smoke in the house. Any tips on this please. Note that it was 50 degrees outside so this could be a factor. I ran the stove because I wanted to get past the first run stinky burn off.

Here are my first impressions of the stove:

1. This stove gets quite hot but is very controllable. Even when I ran at a low burn the thing made the hearth and local walls quite hot. The side is 22 inches from a combustable wall per spec and the wall was too hot for me so I'm moving it a few more inches away. I also will be needing a hearth pad as this thing gets way hotter underneath. The cat used to sleep under the VC at full burn. Can I buy a prefab hearth pad anywhere?

2. The top load may be more difficult when running hot on a big stove like this. I may need to wait until is cooler to use top load.

Thanks in advance.

 

[northwinds]

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum and this is my first post. BTW nice community and site.

Anyways, I'm, a new owner to the Isle Royale (IR). I purchased it based upon the the local dealer advice and the many positive comments on this site. This stove is replacing a VC Intrepid stove which I had for 10 plus years but just started running 24/7. We wanted the bigger stove so we didn't have to load so often and we liked the top load feature. We have 2500 square foot house with a somewhat open plan and a central kitchen installation.

I burned the stove for the first time and noticed that it is hard to open the top or front doors while the stove is going a good clip without getting a small amount of smoke in the room. On my old VC I could open any time with no smoke at all coming out. Should I be operating this big IR differently to avoid smoke? We like zero smoke in the house. Any tips on this please. Note that it was 50 degrees outside so this could be a factor. I ran the stove because I wanted to get past the first run stinky burn off.

Here are my first impressions of the stove:

1. This stove gets quite hot but is very controllable. Even when I ran at a low burn the thing made the hearth and local walls quite hot. The side is 22 inches from a combustable wall per spec and the wall was too hot for me so I'm moving it a few more inches away. I also will be needing a hearth pad as this thing gets way hotter underneath. The cat used to sleep under the VC at full burn. Can I buy a prefab hearth pad anywhere?

2. The top load may be more difficult when running hot on a big stove like this. I may need to wait until is cooler to use top load.

Thanks in advance.

I don't have any smoke issues with my Isle Royale. I have a fairly strong draft. Is it smoking during reloading? I've found that it helps to open up the air to max for 30 seconds or so before opening the doors to reload. I had fun with the top loader for the first few weeks, but I rarely use it anymore. It's easier for me to organize the firebox with wood when using the double doors.
I agree that warm temps would influence your draft and make smoke problematic.

I bought my prefab hearth pad from my local Quad dealer.

It's about 45 degrees here today in Wisconsin--overcast with rain. When I got home at work, the house dropped to 63, so
I've got the stove cruising along at 625 in preparation for my afternoon nap.

 

[begreen]

Welcome Quadman. Often issues like this are related to the flue, not the stove. Please describe the flue system on the stove and how it connects to the stove. If you can post a picture or two of the installation, that would be great.

As you've noted, the stove is a very respectable burner and will put out the heat. You could put up a wall shield if you want to improve protection or reduce wall clearances. There are some prefab hearths that should work for this stove. Here's a link to a good brand:

http://www.hearthclassics.com/hearth_pads/index.html

 

[jtp10181]

Did you have the chimney cleaned and inspected before the stove swap out? Even if the cap is only 10% plugged that can reduce draft and cause smoke spillage.

Also, make sure you are operating the bypass damper correctly, what I mean is, leave it down unless you are using the top load. I have had customers open it up thinking it would help get the fire going but it is actually worse.

 

[savageactor7]

Well Quadman it sounds like you're no stranger to wood burning...so I take it you already tried opening your start up and primary air controls to the max and cracking the door for about 30 seconds before fully opening it...and that didn't work either, HUH?

So that would leave the chimney if you have a cap on it you could try removing it and noting any difference in the draft. I don't have a cap on my chimney the old timer that built it flat out refused to put one on...he said they caused more problems than they solved. But just about everyone here has one so I know that opinion isn't universal.

If it is the cap I suppose you could juke it and fabricate some kind of extension so it has more clearance.

Anyways good luck trouble shooting and share the fix with us when you lock down the smoke leak.

 

[Baron62]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I ran the stove again last night. Unfortunately I ran out of dry wood and had to use a month old cut from a dead standing tree. Burned slowly as expected. Good news I just finished cutting 4 cords in short lengths for next year.

Northwinds- Yes it does smoke when reloading. Not terrible, but some. I'm learning that if I move slow and let the air current build it can be avoided. On, the VC I could move fast when loading top or front with no smoke issues. The VC Intrepid was small so this may be a factor in that the IR openingings are twice as big.

GeGreen - Thanks for the link to hearth pads. I'm looking or may build one. My stove is rear vented to a 6 inch pipe that goes 4 feet into a 8 inch thimble which goes to a 8 x 12 clay chimney tile. The run to the top from the thimble is approximately 26 feet. Question- should I be sealing the pipe joints? I never have in the past. Chimney is 15 years old and well built.

jtp- I cleaned the metals pipes when I put it togther for my test run, but did not clean the chimney tiles yet. I would say there is almost a quarter inch of creosote build when looking at the thimble. I will be cleaning soon.

Sava- I did open the start up and primary air controls to the max and cracking the door for about 30 seconds before fully opening it. This helps significantly. Note that I did not have to do this on the small VC stove so maybe this stove is less forgiving when loading and I need to learn. The Chimney does have a blue stone cap which I like to keep the rain out.

Does anybody use the top load on this IR stove routinely?

Do most folks put the optional blower on the IR?

I also have a fairly air tight house so I will experiment by opening the window to see if this is a factor.

Thanks again,

 

[northwinds]

Do most folks put the optional blower on the IR?

I don't have the optional blower. I do have two ceiling fans that help circulate heat
through the house.

Good luck with your stove. I think you made a great choice.

 

[begreen]

It will be interesting to see if opening a nearby window helps. Check the horiz section of the flue run and be sure that it is pitched uphill at least 1/4" per foot.

 

[Baron62]

It is so warm outside that it may be a while before I test again.

Question- I wondering if this stove would draft stronger with top vent vs rear vent? I'm currently rear venting but can do either configuration. Any thoughts?

 

[begreen]

Good question and possibly worth a try. What is the pitch of the pipe coming out of the stove? Is it at least 1/4" per foot? Sealing the stove to flue connection may be helpful if it's sloppy.

FWIW, our Castine was a little touchy with the rear vent, yet most owners report this is not an issue for the stove when top vented.

 

[Jags]

Quadman, you have received good suggestions here. I will pipe up on the top vent part. I top vent with my IR with a total stack height of ~22 feet, with no smoke problems, but it is a straight shot, no bends or curves. As you stated, I will open "full" air and crack the door for about 45 sec. before any reload.

Also, I would like to point out that with a larger, beast of a cast iron stove, you may want to try a little different burn method. This is not so handy in the shoulder months (due to less heat needed), but in the dead of winter you may want to try it.
1. build start up fire.
2. load to the rim with good, dry wood.
3. char the load
4. tune airflow for desired heat output and let 'er coast
5. don't bother reloading until heat output starts to drop and you are at the coaling stages.

This will give you long burn times (very dependent on wood variety), and will reduce the available volatiles (read:smoke) that are liable to spill out during a reload. The coaling stage has much less smoke than any start up or middle of the road burn stage.

You have one heck of a heater on your hands that will last many years and provide trouble free operation for a long time to come (at least mine has). I inspect mine annually, but other than a proper cleaning, stack clean, glass clean, I have had NO issues with mine. Be aware, that if you abuse the fire brick (and ya really got to knock 'em) they will crack. Mine have not, but I have heard of some that have.

Good luck with it, and give it a little pat on the shoulder (when cool) once in a while, and it will treat you good.

 

[stoveguy13]

Rear vent and 50 degs outside are not a good combo give the stove a chance after the temps drops you may see a diffrences. where did you get the stove from?

 

[Baron62]

Hey Guys, Thanks for all the good advice.

We have had a few more cooler nights so I have been experimenting with the IR. I find that cracking the door for 45 seconds makes a big difference as suggested. I'm starting to not get smoke in which a great thing. Still 50 degrees out so I'm sure the draft will only improve. So far I have been loading about 1/2 full and getting burn times of up to 10 hrs. This stove holds heat for a long time and is very controllable. Tonight I loaded it up with as much as I could fit to see if I can get past 12 hours. I like how this stove can handle 22 inch logs. Mine are only 16 but it will be nice if I ever have to buy wood.

I bought the stove in Torrington, CT at Palace Aids.

Couple more questions:
* Do you bother cleaning the glass? Seems to get dirty with each use. It is nice when it is clean and you can see the fire better.
* Anybody have the rear baffle filler piece break? Noticed that the baffle is broken on mine. 3 inch piece fell off.

Thanks, I'm starting to get fond of this stove.

 

[jtp10181]

If cracking the door helps, then you have a neg pressure issue in the house. If the stove is near an outside wall an outside air kit might help.

If you find the glass gets very black all the time and doesn't self-clean when burning then your wood has too much moisture in it or you are not burning hot enough. With a good firebox temp the glass will clean off by itself.

I have heard the rear baffle piece breaks pretty easily. If you read the warranty for your stove, the baffle board should be covered for life.

 

[Baron62]

I was refering to cracking the stove door no the house door.

I agree my wood must be too wet still.

 

[Jags]

I was refering to cracking the stove door no the house door.

I agree my wood must be too wet still.

When burning the stove as intended, I will go at least 2 weeks without the need to clean the glass. I agree, you are either not firing it hot enough, or your wood is not seasoned well.

Glad to hear that you have learned the stove a little better, and yes, when we get back to cold weather (hopefully not for a long time) your draft should improve.

Edit: Never had a baffle problem with mine, but as JTP stated, it should be covered under warranty.

 

[stoveguy13]

you should replace the baff. it is under warrantty for life.

 

[begreen]

Good to hear this is working better for you Quadman. It sounds like she'll be burning fine with good wood and the baffle fixed. There's a learning curve on these stoves, but once you have it down, it becomes routine.

I used to live in Cornwall, over the hills from Torrington. Can't believe the name of the stove shop, it's a real groaner. Have they turned out to be a good dealer for you?

 

[northwinds]

After reading this thread today, I went and looked at my baffle. It has a very small
hairline crack running across the center of the baffle. No chunks missing, and it seems
to be just on the surface, not very deep. Is that the sort of thing I should have replaced
or should I let it go until it becomes a problem since there is a lifetime warranty?

 

[Baron62]

Yeah Palace Aids is an interesting name for a woodstove shop. I believe they have been around for a while. So far they have been good to me. Let's see how they do when I bring in the broken baffle piece.

The stove burned for 12 hours with restartable coals last night. I'm really pleased with that

Hope the 6 cords of wood I split last month dries enough for next winter. The wood I have been burning was from a dead standing tree that apparently needs more drying.

Do you guys bother with the ash clean out or just shovel out from the doors?

 

[jtp10181]

After reading this thread today, I went and looked at my baffle. It has a very small
hairline crack running across the center of the baffle. No chunks missing, and it seems
to be just on the surface, not very deep. Is that the sort of thing I should have replaced
or should I let it go until it becomes a problem since there is a lifetime warranty?

That little thing always gives us trouble. If it is not falling apart I would rather just leave it. If it does start to break apart we can get a new one for you.

 

[Jags]

Do you guys bother with the ash clean out or just shovel out from the doors?

I do both, because I am a long ways from being proactive on ash removal. I wait until ash pan and the bottom of the stove is FULL, before I bother with ashes. Then I shovel from inside, and get the ash pan emptied (I will even have to shovel out the ash pan housing). It doesn't take much longer than just dealing with the ash pan, but yields about a 5 gal bucket of ashes. And the best part is that I only do this about every 10 days of solid burning (sometimes less).

You will figure out what works best for you, and I can do this because I am gone from the house long enough that it is just coal left, when I get home. I just move those to the side.

 

[northwinds]

That little thing always gives us trouble. If it is not falling apart I would rather just leave it. If it does start to break apart we can get a new one for you.

Thanks jtp. I'll let it ride for now and keep an eye on it this fall.