Orlan is working great thanks to you guys...but my damper door is sticking closed.

Gilby Posted By Gilby, Dec 16, 2011 at 10:39 PM

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  1. Gilby

    Gilby
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    Oct 28, 2011
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    Thanks to all the help on this board, my orlan 60 is working great. not too hot...not too cold. Been splitting all of my wood and its been doing well.

    My question now, though, is after an extended burn...like from bed time til morning...my damper door gets stuck closed. Actually my wife just got home and texted me and said she's tried everything to get the damper open so she can open the upper chamber and get a fire going again...and she can't get it open.

    What causes that? Creosote? Air vacuum? Beats me. Any suggestions on why this is happening now that the stove has been working so well??
     
  2. woodsmaster

    woodsmaster
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    Jan 25, 2010
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    When I first got my boiler the bypass would stick some but hasn't did it for a long time. Maybe just needs broke in ?
     
  3. goosegunner

    goosegunner
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    Oct 15, 2009
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    Creosote from idling, no storage right?

    I had that happen a few times last year. The handle on my Econoburn gets pushed in to open so I would just pop it with the palm of my hand, it would usually open. I have never opened a Orlan, but just a little shock should free it up.

    Once you get a good feel for what it takes to go the time between when you can load just try to minimize the amount of wood you load, least amount possible is best.

    gg
     
  4. RobC

    RobC
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    Jul 28, 2009
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    My Tarm did that. I found, in my case, that consistent pressure on lever worked for me. By leaning on it the creosote would finally give way.
    Sounds like wet wood. Gassifiers need really dry wood. I have burnt for years, prior to my Tarm and had know idea what less than 20% was. To help dry faster split smaller. Also use smaller loads as GG suggested.
    Rob
     
  5. huffdawg

    huffdawg
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    Oct 3, 2009
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    My 40 has been doin the same .My wood is seasoned for two years. I just push on the handle a little and give the damper a tap with the axe handle.

    And ditto as far as the gents on this site . Great place to learn . And most are eager to help.

    Huff
     
  6. Donl

    Donl
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    Nov 23, 2007
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    My door and damper would stick often until I started using storage.
     
  7. RobC

    RobC
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    Jul 28, 2009
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    Maybe there is a little "seasoning" of the new metal insides of the boiler that takes place ? I know originally my wood was wetter than recommended.
     
  8. Hunderliggur

    Hunderliggur
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    Dec 23, 2009
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    Wet wood = more creosote (even with storage). If she can get the front door open, tap the rear flap with an appropriate length 2x4. About 4 or 5 feet should do it.
     
  9. taxidermist

    taxidermist
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    Mar 11, 2008
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    Quote from Eric Johnson

    "The other modification I made was to turn the main loading door handle around so that you can now open the loading door while the bypass damper is shut. The EKO is designed so that you can’t do that, presumably as a safety precaution. But since my bypass damper tends to stick from time to time, making impossible to open the damper and thus open the door, I’ve thrown caution to the wind and engineered a workaround. As a practical matter, the only time the damper sticks is at the end of the cycle when it gets a little creosote stuck to it, usually first thing in the morning when I’m trying to get the fire going again and get to work. So the only time I open the main door with the damper closed is when there’s little or nothing burning in the boiler. To turn the handle all you have to do is drive the setpin out with a thin nailset, turn the handle around 180 degrees and reset the pin. "


    Rob
     
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