Oslo Maintenance and Control Update

[downeast]

Update on the air leak or control problem with our Jotul Oslo for others with Oslo air control.

Sources for solutions were dealers, but the best advice came directly from the techs at Jotul USA.
1. Door gasket security using the dollar bill test, particularly the ash pan door. Regasketed with a 1/8" thicker gasket.
2. The ash housing is attached to the base by 4 bolts. They were loose.
3. Check that the ash housing sides are flush to the lip for the ash pan door. The lip must seal the door gasket.
If not, loosen the bolts, then tap (rubber mallet or wood block) the housing sides flush to the door lip.
4. Damper in the flue pipe ONLY IF all else is secure and the draft is too strong. Not something that happens suddenly.
Not done.
5. The air inlet at the rear bottom of the stove can be partially blocked with steel wool ( trial and error)-- if the draft is too
strong. Not done.
6. Open seams cemented on the exterior.
7. Be sure that the wood is not too dry, too soft/fast burning, too small.

Air leak checks: light, interior and exterior smoke, visual.

 

[dirtypierre]

Thanks for that rundown on resealing.

A somewhat related question about a 4 year old Oslo F-500.

Is there a gallery or air passage that feeds air to the top air tubes that needs cleaning? Is there some way ashes or something can obstruct or close off that air supply to the top tubes?

If so, how do you clean it?

I was thinking about taking the stove apart to check this out but will await some advice before starting that project. It's kind of cold outside and I don't really want to take the stove out of commission without a good reason.

Thanks,

Pete

 

[downeast]

A somewhat related question about a 4 year old Oslo F-500.
Is there a gallery or air passage that feeds air to the top air tubes that needs cleaning? Is there some way ashes or something can obstruct or close off that air supply to the top tubes?
If so, how do you clean it?
I was thinking about taking the stove apart to check this out but will await some advice before starting that project. It's kind of cold outside and I don't really want to take the stove out of commission without a good reason.
Thanks,Pete

There are two air passages from the rear air inlet that run along the sides of the Oslo to the front for primary air , and for the "air wash" for the clear ceramic 'glass'. Our Oslo is on its second winter. I don't know if those passages or the air tubes ( for reburning gases) even need cleaning. Can you check with a dealer or Jotul USA ? Good question. Is the stove not burning right ?
In spring, I do vacuum (w fine dust filters) out both our stoves getting into as many passages as possible. Makes me feel good.

 

[stoveguy13]

there should be no need to ever try and clean either of them it is not a bad idea to keep the air inlet at the back bottom of the stove clear from animal hair and other house hold stuff but i would not try to attempt a cleaning much past that if you did you would have to break the stove down completely and clean all cast parts and re-cemnet the stove.

 

[begreen]

The sealed air channels was one of the features that attracted me to the Jotul. It's a pretty low maintenance stove.

 

[dirtypierre]

downeast, stoveguy and begreen,

Thank you for your replies.

I go through various levels of panic when the stove doesn't perform the way I think it should. Usually a chimney cleaning will improve things but the early part of this year I had some wood that needed a couple of more months seasoning and felt better when I got to my dry wood.

The stove is running OK but with medium size loads of wood the temps don't get much above 450f. I seem to recall some 650's in the past but I was really running it hard then I think.

I am relieved to get your opinions on the airway system for the upper air supply. It's good to know there's nothing to do there.
I was told on some other stove types it is a maintenance item so that's what got me going.

 

[begreen]

It's a good question. Some stoves do have places where ash can get trapped.

If the stove is not much above 450, try larger loads with a little more air before closing down the air control. A good temp to shoot for is about 550-600. If you get it up to about 450 with a strong burn, then move the air control to about halfway closed (depending on stove and draft), it will jump up to about 550 at peak. If it goes up to 650 that's ok. It can easily take that temp.

 

[dirtypierre]

Yeah, I usually shut it down quite a bit to try and make it last longer and get more heat out of it. Aren't you letting a lot of heat go up the chimney with the air 1/2 open?

 

[begreen]

The halfway setting is just an approximation. It depends on whether I want long burn or good heat. If it's heat, I set the air control down to where the secondaries start slowing down but don't diminish. Stove top temp is about 550. If it's long burn then I will close it a bit more to where the secondaries get really wispy and floating. Stove top temp will be about 450. But this is with our NW wood. With good east coast hardwood my temps would be hotter.