Outdoor Use

[mass_burner]

I'm planning to use a '75 jotul model 4 outside. I've built a rolling cart already. What is the best treatment to keep rust away for as long as possible?

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[begreen]

You could try oiling it heavily, then running it at about 350F to polymerized a coat of oil on it, but I still think it'll rust almost immediately as soon as moisture hits it.

 

[mass_burner]

You could try oiling it heavily, then running it at about 350F to polymerized a coat of oil on it, but I still think it'll rust almost immediately as soon as moisture hits it.

There's a product, por 15, made for auto use, I've used it on an a gas grill that stays out all the time, but I'm not sure about adding high heat to the mix.

On the other hand, it might be an interesting observational endeavor to watch it rust over time.

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[mass_burner]

There's a product, por 15, made for auto use, I've used it on an a gas grill that stays out all the time, but I'm not sure about adding high heat to the mix.

On the other hand, it might be an interesting observational endeavor to watch it rust over time.

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Also, can anyone return a close up pic of the wood handle for a jotul 4? I can't seem to find a good pic on the interwebs.

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[begreen]

 

[mass_burner]

View attachment 221894 View attachment 221895

It appears to be made of plastic, is that possible?

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[bholler]

It appears to be made of plastic, is that possible?

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Yes there are plenty of high temp plasics available

 

[mass_burner]

Yes there are plenty of high temp plasics available

OK, think my chances if finding one is small,.huh?

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[mass_burner]

Also, there's a small L bracket on the back, center, about 3/4 up. Anyone know what that's for?

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[mass_burner]

You could try oiling it heavily, then running it at about 350F to polymerized a coat of oil on it, but I still think it'll rust almost immediately as soon as moisture hits it.

So under this procedure I shouldn't paint it, just bring it bare iiron?

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[mass_burner]

So under this procedure I shouldn't paint it, just bring it bare iiron?

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I ccan also build a cover for it, it would rest on top of the rolling stand, could even design it so it doubles as a deck table when not in use.

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[begreen]

So under this procedure I shouldn't paint it, just bring it bare iiron?

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The method I described with the oil is how cast iron frying pans are seasoned. I think either painting or this procedure will rust. Heating steel and iron will accelerate oxidation. But it's easier to repeatedly re-oil than repaint.

 

[mass_burner]

The method I described with the oil is how cast iron frying pans are seasoned. I think either painting or this procedure will rust. Heating steel and iron will accelerate oxidation. But it's easier to repeatedly re-oil than repaint.

Good point on re-oiling. The underside door hiding mechanism is most vulnerable.

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[coaly]

Stove Bright exterior primer. That's what it is for. Stoves used inside do not require primer under high temp paint, the primer is formulated for exterior use.

Stove black allows water and moisture right through.
Polymerized oil is similar to linseed oil which is a hard coating, but not as good as exterior primer with high temp paint cured with heat. This is due to different temperatures of surfaces not cross linking as well as others. It's difficult getting a consistent coating without baking in an oven at the correct temperature. For instance the top burns off where the water collects. The oil thins and moves toward the bottom, so the bottom 1/3 gets a thicker better coating burned on at the correct temperature leaving the top half with much less of a coating. It is the material that forms on the inside of an oven from cooking oil cross linking and becoming a different material. It works great where just the right amount and temperature allows it to form.
It's just not a consistent coating.

Aluminum silver oxide boiler paint after heat cure works extremely well. (Ace Hardware) I worked on steam locomotives and the smoke box up front where coal fly ash lands and rusts the exterior parts more than the boiler jacket was painted with that stuff. We used industrial stuff, but the ingredients are the same as the Ace product. Once cooked on it doesn't change. I'd imagine you could paint black over it, never tried, we left the smoke box on the nose silver. I then went on to maintain traction engines and other outdoor boilers from road rollers to stationary boilers. When color was desired prime and paint. When color is not critical such as stationary outside, silver oxide.
Por-15 makes a high temp paint line too. It doesn't convert rust to a gray hard substance like their other products designed to do that, but it is more like an epoxy. Lasts a long time on headers and manifolds. (the factory gray marine manifold paint)

 

[mass_burner]

Stove Bright exterior primer. That's what it is for. Stoves used inside do not require primer under high temp paint, the primer is formulated for exterior use.

Stove black allows water and moisture right through.
Polymerized oil is similar to linseed oil which is a hard coating, but not as good as exterior primer with high temp paint cured with heat. This is due to different temperatures of surfaces not cross linking as well as others. It's difficult getting a consistent coating without baking in an oven at the correct temperature. For instance the top burns off where the water collects. The oil thins and moves toward the bottom, so the bottom 1/3 gets a thicker better coating burned on at the correct temperature leaving the top half with much less of a coating. It is the material that forms on the inside of an oven from cooking oil cross linking and becoming a different material. It works great where just the right amount and temperature allows it to form.
It's just not a consistent coating.

Aluminum silver oxide boiler paint after heat cure works extremely well. (Ace Hardware) I worked on steam locomotives and the smoke box up front where coal fly ash lands and rusts the exterior parts more than the boiler jacket was painted with that stuff. We used industrial stuff, but the ingredients are the same as the Ace product. Once cooked on it doesn't change. I'd imagine you could paint black over it, never tried, we left the smoke box on the nose silver. I then went on to maintain traction engines and other outdoor boilers from road rollers to stationary boilers. When color was desired prime and paint. When color is not critical such as stationary outside, silver oxide.
Por-15 makes a high temp paint line too. It doesn't convert rust to a gray hard substance like their other products designed to do that, but it is more like an epoxy. Lasts a long time on headers and manifolds. (the factory gray marine manifold paint)

Thanks for the info. Which of the options would you recommend?

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[coaly]

Stove Bright #6306 primer then paint and fire to cure.

 

[mass_burner]

Stove Bright #6306 primer then paint and fire to cure.

How many cans for a jotul 4?

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[coaly]

Average 6 square feet per 12 oz. aerosol can.

 

[mass_burner]

Some pics

Notice the mystery hook.

 

[mass_burner]

Decided to keep it simple on the cover, just built a frame with 2x3's , when winter comes, I can easily fasten some pre cut sections of metal roofing, or other light weight material to close it up.

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[mass_burner]

Primed

 

[begreen]

First time I've seen a stove primed. Most stove paints are self-priming. What paint was used?

 

[bholler]

The hook is for a rear heat sheild

 

[begreen]

The hook is for a rear heat sheild

Ha! I thought it was for hanging the spark arrestor screen on when not in use. Didn't know they made a rear heat shield for these stoves. I learn something here every day.

 

[mass_burner]

Ha! I thought it was for hanging the spark arrestor screen on when not in use. Didn't know they made a rear heat shield for these stoves. I learn something here every day.

Stove bright primer was used. Since using outside wanted max protection.

Rear heat shield ? What did it look like?

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