Outside air kit details, the often forgotten screened inlet

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HB, do you have a shut off valve on the inlet tube? My H1's primary is on the lower rear left, secondary on the lower right side. I am going to put a oak in the basement where the H1 will sit, but I really think I should be able to control the oak air flow.

RD
 
VCBurner said:
Todd said:
Lots of OAK questions lately. I had a vertical OAK run for my basement install and could not control the cold air pushing into the stove even with a damper and U in the pipe. It cooled off my stove prematurely and also think it created shorter cooler burns. I took it off and stove burns much better.

"I definetelly don't want shorter/cooler burns. Maybe I'm better off leaving it alone. It burns fine as it is and gets some of its supply from upstairs replacing the cooler air with warm air. I guess that helps circulate the ait through the house. Why mess with it if it works fine, right? Just wondering, what do you think the difference is between air intake on a first floor OAK instal and a basement one? Thanks for the input Todd!"

The difference is when the stove is on the first floor the OAK is lower than stoves air inlet so it will suck the air it needs, if the OAK is higher the air is pushed in. I could really notice the difference towards the end of the burn when normally the stove doesn't require much air but my OAK still pushed very cold air in and when it's just down to coals that cold air cooled the stove quicker. Maybe if there was a way to put a bigger U trap in my run or some kind of auto damper where the stove would control the amount of combustion air it would of been fine but burning without works just fine and I also don't have the ugly pipe running out the back across my hearth.

Now my fireplace upstairs is rigged with an OAK through the ash dump and along with air tight doors it is a heating beast compared to what it use to be, but still eats wood like most fireplaces. I think there is a big difference in combustion air volume between a fireplace and wood stove, probably 2 or 3 times more. I use to burn that fireplace and the smoke would be drawn down the other side by side flue for the stove and fill the basement with smoke, the OAK eliminated that.
 
Todd said:
VCBurner said:
Todd said:
Lots of OAK questions lately. I had a vertical OAK run for my basement install and could not control the cold air pushing into the stove even with a damper and U in the pipe. It cooled off my stove prematurely and also think it created shorter cooler burns. I took it off and stove burns much better.

"I definetelly don't want shorter/cooler burns. Maybe I'm better off leaving it alone. It burns fine as it is and gets some of its supply from upstairs replacing the cooler air with warm air. I guess that helps circulate the ait through the house. Why mess with it if it works fine, right? Just wondering, what do you think the difference is between air intake on a first floor OAK instal and a basement one? Thanks for the input Todd!"

The difference is when the stove is on the first floor the OAK is lower than stoves air inlet so it will suck the air it needs, if the OAK is higher the air is pushed in. I could really notice the difference towards the end of the burn when normally the stove doesn't require much air but my OAK still pushed very cold air in and when it's just down to coals that cold air cooled the stove quicker. Maybe if there was a way to put a bigger U trap in my run or some kind of auto damper where the stove would control the amount of combustion air it would of been fine but burning without works just fine and I also don't have the ugly pipe running out the back across my hearth.

Now my fireplace upstairs is rigged with an OAK through the ash dump and along with air tight doors it is a heating beast compared to what it use to be, but still eats wood like most fireplaces. I think there is a big difference in combustion air volume between a fireplace and wood stove, probably 2 or 3 times more. I use to burn that fireplace and the smoke would be drawn down the other side by side flue for the stove and fill the basement with smoke, the OAK eliminated that.

"I'm almost starting to feel that if I change anything, it may not be for the better. The stove burns fine without the OAK. I don't know if changing any part of the equation will result in less effective performance. I was starting to feel like the outside air would help, but now it seems I may relly on the old saying: if it ain't broke don't fix it! Thanks for your input once again Todd!"
 
VCBurner said:
Todd said:
VCBurner said:
Todd said:
Lots of OAK questions lately. I had a vertical OAK run for my basement install and could not control the cold air pushing into the stove even with a damper and U in the pipe. It cooled off my stove prematurely and also think it created shorter cooler burns. I took it off and stove burns much better.

"I definetelly don't want shorter/cooler burns. Maybe I'm better off leaving it alone. It burns fine as it is and gets some of its supply from upstairs replacing the cooler air with warm air. I guess that helps circulate the ait through the house. Why mess with it if it works fine, right? Just wondering, what do you think the difference is between air intake on a first floor OAK instal and a basement one? Thanks for the input Todd!"

The difference is when the stove is on the first floor the OAK is lower than stoves air inlet so it will suck the air it needs, if the OAK is higher the air is pushed in. I could really notice the difference towards the end of the burn when normally the stove doesn't require much air but my OAK still pushed very cold air in and when it's just down to coals that cold air cooled the stove quicker. Maybe if there was a way to put a bigger U trap in my run or some kind of auto damper where the stove would control the amount of combustion air it would of been fine but burning without works just fine and I also don't have the ugly pipe running out the back across my hearth.

Now my fireplace upstairs is rigged with an OAK through the ash dump and along with air tight doors it is a heating beast compared to what it use to be, but still eats wood like most fireplaces. I think there is a big difference in combustion air volume between a fireplace and wood stove, probably 2 or 3 times more. I use to burn that fireplace and the smoke would be drawn down the other side by side flue for the stove and fill the basement with smoke, the OAK eliminated that.

"I'm almost starting to feel that if I change anything, it may not be for the better. The stove burns fine without the OAK. I don't know if changing any part of the equation will result in less effective performance. I was starting to feel like the outside air would help, but now it seems I may relly on the old saying: if it ain't broke don't fix it! Thanks for your input once again Todd!"[/quote By the way I saw a Woodstock Fireview on CL, what do you think?http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/hsh/1550597599.html
 
Here's a pic I forgot to attach.
 

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