Outside air

[womaus]

My recent OA install. Got the flex tubing from HD in the house vacuum dept..then it transitions to PVC at the wall. View attachment 166186View attachment 166187

What size flex tubing? I believe it should be 2 3/8"?

I expect I'll try one of the auto part stores for exhaust metal flex hose.

 

[JimD]

What size flex tubing? I believe it should be 2 3/8"?

I expect I'll try one of the auto part stores for exhaust metal flex hose.

I was looking at the automotive flex exhaust too...may still do that n once I k ow I'm happy with everything

 

[Ambient]

The OAK should always be of a fireproof material. In the event of a burn back the PVC can be damaged by the heat and emit knoxious gases.

say what?

The OAK supplied by, and enclosed in, the manufacturers carton, was nothing more than insulated plastic type tubing, commonly used to supply air conditioned supply to a ceiling vent. Is there a standard or code that we are referring to, or are we voicing an opinion? An OAK, not insulated, is not viable here with temp's that go below -30*; but the materials used are determined by the manufacturer.

 

[CapeMayDan]

The OAK supplied by, and enclosed in, the manufacturers carton, was nothing more than insulated plastic type tubing, commonly used to supply air conditioned supply to a ceiling vent. Is there a standard or code that we are referring to, or are we voicing an opinion? An OAK, not insulated, is not viable here with temp's that go below -30*; but the materials used are determined by the manufacturer.

Hello, Don't want to start an argument. I mean no harm.
The OAK has to be made of a non-combustible material in order to satisfy the - Clearance to combustibles- specified by the Mfg.
If the Mfg supplied the OAK, I would contact them, maybe it is not plastic.
Here is the the language contained in the old NFPA 211
3.3.26
Combustible Material.
Material made of or surfaced with wood, compressed paper, plant fibers, plastics, or other
material that can ignite and burn, whether flame proofed or
not, or whether plastered or unplastered.

If you did have a stove fire which material would you want used.

Dan

 

[Pete Zahria]

Hello, Don't want to start an argument. I mean no harm.

Same here, no argument intended.
But that is just the definition of a combustible material.
It really doesn't apply to the clearance issue here.
Clearances are provided by the manufacturer,
and should certainly be used.

If you can put a stove 3" from a plastic baseboard,
and the vent pipe can be 1" from a sheetrock wall...
it's unlikely that a plastic coated intake pipe is a danger.
And if the OP is correct, that his pipe is indeed plastic coated/plastic itself,
and the stove has a UL approval for mobile homes...
then that is that.

Dan

 

[Tonyray]

And we're off to another pellet season. I can always tell, 'cause the OAK debate starts. Do whatever you want, folks. Or, learn physics (and install an OAK).

BTW, we should start a pool on number of times topic comes up between now and April.

hey.. wait till the Harman Room temp vrs stove temp debates begin..

 

[jackman]

hey.. wait till the Harman Room temp vrs stove temp debates begin..

I was wondering when that topic would pop up, LOL!

 

[CapeMayDan]

But that is just the definition of a combustible material.
It really doesn't apply to the clearance issue here.

Dan, that is the point, the clearance for the back of the stove is 3", Plastic can not used within 3".

The manual states "An insulated 3” inside diameter metallic pipe, either flexible or rigid, must be attached to the fresh
air intake (D). " They sell this kit which is just as the OP states is AC flexible duct.

So how does the MFG sell this kit. Looking at the back of the stove, the air intake pipe protrudes 3 1/2".
I guess you attach on the last 1/2" of the pipe and that gives you 3". There is no mention of this, so on one hand you must use a metallic pipe and then you can use the kit with plastic pipe.

The OP asked if it was opinion or is there some code. The clearance to combustibles is the code.

Dan

 

[BrotherBart]

There is a name for somebody that attaches plastic to a wood burning appliance. The name is fool.

 

[woodknack]

Do you guys wrap your pipe (OAK) with anything. I just installed a new Harman P43 and used a metal flexable 3" dryer tube to connect to my stove and OAK from my previous pellet stove. I have noticed the pipe gets very cold and when I touch it my hand get wet with condinsation. Any ideas on stopping that so my floor doesnt get wet? Its not even that cold out yet.

 

[HP52NOVA]

Why not use a direct vent product? The pipe combining the exhaust and air into one pipe... This way you have no condensation issues and don't need another hole in the wall. Most big pipe makers have these for pellet stoves (Selkirk, Ventis, etc).

 

[TimfromMA]

Why not use a direct vent product? The pipe combining the exhaust and air into one pipe... This way you have no condensation issues and don't need another hole in the wall. Most big pipe makers have these for pellet stoves (Selkirk, Ventis, etc).

There is a debate on whether or not this promotes creosote buildup since the incoming combustion air cools the outgoing exhaust gasses.

 

[Wilbur Feral]

Do you guys wrap your pipe (OAK) with anything. I just installed a new Harman P43 and used a metal flexable 3" dryer tube to connect to my stove and OAK from my previous pellet stove. I have noticed the pipe gets very cold and when I touch it my hand get wet with condinsation. Any ideas on stopping that so my floor doesnt get wet? Its not even that cold out yet.

The key is to prevent warm, moist air from contacting the cold surface, which causes surface condensation (same thing that happens when you have a glass of ice water get wet on a warm summer day). Wrapping the OAK tube with noncombustible insulation that has some vapor retarding properties does it. A thin (maybe 1 inch or even less) piece of fiberglass with foil-type backing should do it, with foil on the outside.

 

[woodknack]

Why not use a direct vent product? The pipe combining the exhaust and air into one pipe... This way you have no condensation issues and don't need another hole in the wall. Most big pipe makers have these for pellet stoves (Selkirk, Ventis, etc).

Because like I state in my post earlier I already have a separate OAK that was on my other stove. S

The key is to prevent warm, moist air from contacting the cold surface, which causes surface condensation (same thing that happens when you have a glass of ice water get wet on a warm summer day). Wrapping the OAK tube with noncombustible insulation that has some vapor retarding properties does it. A thin (maybe 1 inch or even less) piece of fiberglass with foil-type backing should do it, with foil on the outside.

Thank you! I will give that a try..

 

[Pete Zahria]

The OP asked if it was opinion or is there some code. The clearance to combustibles is the code.

Like I said.
Not looing for an argument.
I just pointed out that if the stove meets UL standards, which it does,
then that pretty much settles it.
Would I use plastic. No..... both of mine are metallic.
Done with this one....


Dan

 

[TonyVideo]

I wrapped insulation around my intake and it seems to work fine. No condensation build up. Then again a pellet stove drops humidity like a gas furnace. I use a humidifier in the winter to prevent those static shocks.

 

[Ambient]

Hello, Don't want to start an argument. I mean no harm.
The OAK has to be made of a non-combustible material in order to satisfy the - Clearance to combustibles- specified by the Mfg.
If the Mfg supplied the OAK, I would contact them, maybe it is not plastic.
Here is the the language contained in the old NFPA 211
3.3.26
Combustible Material.
Material made of or surfaced with wood, compressed paper, plant fibers, plastics, or other
material that can ignite and burn, whether flame proofed or
not, or whether plastered or unplastered.

If you did have a stove fire which material would you want used.

Dan

Sorry for my delay weather here is so nice and I had too many projects to stop what I was doing:

I asked the question for a real answer and not to stir a pot; there will be no arguments here.

Our building inspector has repeatedly and emphatically stated that a manufacturers spec/s will trump opinions. The installation has a CO. I am covered for insurance purposes; and I don't have State Farm

I actually looked closer and inspected everything this AM. I have a insulated pipe supplied by the manufacturer SBI, the pipe is a Imperial Boflex.

http://www.imperialgroup.ca/flexibleducting.cfm?c=264

"A class 1 installation not over 14 feet." States it has a maximum flame of 25 and smoke of 50.

Opinions?
Knowledge...
links?

 

[bogieb]

For the long OAK on my P61a, I use 10' of 3" flex metal pipe attached to the stove using a 2-3" ring clamp (or whatever the technical name is ), then run the drier vent/heating duct hose the rest of the way to the hole in the wall. Figure it is well past the clearance at the back and side of the stove with the metal stuff so I have no worries. I also wrapped the dryer ducting with a foil backed strip insulation to keep it from radiating the cold and from sweating.

If the tubing is what came with your stove, I would think/hope that it is the correct stuff, will pass inspection, and more importantly is safe.

 

[Tonyray]

pretty simple setup...

 

[Tonyray]

pretty simple setup...

 

[TimfromMA]