PB105 6 Blink Error

[AndrewChurchill]

I've gotten the 6 blink error twice for incomplete combustion in the past two days.

The 1st time I had the stove in the manual mode so the fire should not have gone out.

After the first time I removed the ESP, which was rather dirty, and cleaned it. I then set the PB back into the Auto ignite mode and this morning I decided to check the PB before I went to work and it was flashing 6 blinks again.

I opened the hopper and there were still red hot coals in the burn pot. I closed the hopper and turned the PB back on again and it ignited properly.

I clean the burn pot and clean out the fines under the ignitor twice a week. Is there something else I should be doing?

 

[wil lanfear]

I would be looking at the combustion air inlet backdraft damper that may be sticking closed at times and the air switch that may be failing. The auger motor to feed more pellets is powered through this air switch, meaning if the switch does not close when the combustion blower is running, no pellets will feed into the burnpot. Page # 32 of the owners manual refers to some things that may be causing the # 6 status blink that you have.

 

[AndrewChurchill]

Wil,

Thanks,

I've checked all the things in the manual. One of the first things I check is the air inlet flap since I've had that stick in the closed position a couple of times already.

 

[wil lanfear]

Wil,

Thanks,

I've checked all the things in the manual. One of the first things I check is the air inlet flap since I've had that stick in the closed position a couple of times already.

After re-reading your post that it was in the manual mode the first time this happened, this tends to make me believe that the air volume switch may be failing or the air tube from this is maybe partially blocked, not allowing the switch to stay closed, which will not power the auger motor to supply pellets, resulting in incomplete combustion when calling for heat. Testing the air volume switch to see if in fact this is the problem, this would need to be done prior to powering down the boiler when the status 6 blink occurs. Remove the two wire spade connectors from this switch and with a digital voltmeter set on ohms scale or a test light, see if you read continuty on the switch, a reading here would mean the air volume switch is not the cause for staus 6 condition.

 

[GVA]

Quicker way to check with a meter (and not unplugging wires) is to keep it in AC volts scale...
put one lead on each wire on switch
If you read 110-120 volts the switch is OPEN
if you read 0 the switch is CLOSED

 

[AndrewChurchill]

Where is the air tube located? If there is a port inside the boiler wouldn't it make sense to see if that is plugged first?

 

[wil lanfear]

Andy,
The panel cover below the pellet storage , (4) hex-headed screws, loosen them with a 5/16 nut driver so this cover panel can slide back in the slots, it will drop down. After removing, use a flashlight to locate the clear plastic tubing that slides on to the body (top) of the air volume switch , in order to see the other end open the air damper (the flapper).

 

[AndrewChurchill]

I've got the PB running again..... at least for now. I pulled the air tube off the switch and blew through it and it didn't seem blocked. As I was starting to get up I noticed the ash pan door had about an 1/8 inch gap around it. I checked the handle and it was all the down but I could move the door in and out about 1/8 inch.

I wedged a piece of metal into the latch and got the latch to give the door a good seal and I fired the PB up and so far it's running good.

I'm going to keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks All!

 

[AndrewChurchill]

The PB worked fine all night long. I'm going to give it another 24 hours and if I don't have any problems I'll cancel my Wednesday service call.

 

[wil lanfear]

I've got the PB running again..... at least for now. I pulled the air tube off the switch and blew through it and it didn't seem blocked. As I was starting to get up I noticed the ash pan door had about an 1/8 inch gap around it. I checked the handle and it was all the down but I could move the door in and out about 1/8 inch.

I wedged a piece of metal into the latch and got the latch to give the door a good seal and I fired the PB up and so far it's running good.

I'm going to keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks All!

The latch attatched to the boiler side must not have been formed correctly from the factory. I would mention this to your dealer, asking him to get a new one for you so you don't have to use a piece of metal to create a good seal on the ash door or you could use a hammer to bend the latch a tad closer to the boiler side which would draw the door tighter when the latch handle is pushed down.

 

[AndrewChurchill]

I tried using a hammer on it last night but it feels like cast iron and I'm afraid of breaking it if I hit it too hard. I'm definitely going to ask for a new piece when I call them.

 

[wil lanfear]

The latch that is attatched to the boiler side is 1/4" X 3/4" flat steel that has been stamped out to form the latch, if it were cast iron it probably wouldn't withstand the cam lock of the door handle without breaking.

 

[AndrewChurchill]

I'll still hold off hitting it any harder than I did last night. The last thing I need is to have the latch break and then have to wait God knows how long to get a replacement part.