PE Summit Series A - Help Please!

[KonaKane]

Tom got this PE Summit Classic Series A for me in Dec of 2009. His recommendation, advice, and sale was perfect. I was sorry to hear of his passing.

It has been the perfect stove for my unique application, but 14 yrs of a fire everyday in a very wet and humid location has worn out the obvious parts. But I'm having trouble finding the right part numbers and a reliable dealer from which to buy them. I'm in Hawaii, and not on the main island - which presents some problems.

I just successfully replaced my stove pipe - what an ordeal - very high ceiling and roof. The stove box and exterior is in excellent shape, but the baffle, door, and fire bricks need replacing. A new stove here is very expensive and difficult (expensive) to ship, and would take a long time to get it here. So, I would like to re-build this one. However, getting the right part numbers, etc. is proving to be confusing - and I thought someone here would be willing to help.

I think I have the correct parts numbers for the baffle kit, and the fire bricks. However, for the door I am getting different quotes and info. PE has told me the the same door will work for all their Summit Series models through to the present. Can anyone confirm that? One dealer told me the complete door is no longer available, and they quoted me the parts for a complete new door - almost $1400 - which I know is too much.

My door casing, handle, and glass are still good. But I have two major worries.

1) is getting the right parts - frame, clips, glass gasket, and rope gasket. There is no "glass gasket" in the Manual, only a door gasket "kit." And not having all the correct parts for the door, means in the middle of the repair with wrong or not all the parts, I don't have a usable stove until/if I can get them. No one is quoting me the clips or the screws. Do they come with the window bars/frame? Or the door gasket kit?
2) I have no idea how difficult it is to remove and reinstall the glass. The clips and frame are deteriorating and very rusty.

What are the chances that removing and replacing is impossible??? What are the chances all the old screws will not be removable or some other problem? I would order a new door, but unsure if a newer door will fit for sure - or if a complete assembled new door can even be purchased? If so, it should be less than $1300. (and not sure if that includes shipping).

Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Yes, the wood stove community lost a great asset and friend with Tom's passing. There isn't another like him.

The firebrick can be generic pumice brick. It doesn't need to be PE firebrick. US Stove sells them on Amazon. And rBay also has them.

BLAZE KING PUMICE WOOD STOVE FIREBRICK [PP1901] WHOLE & UNCUT 6 PACK | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BLAZE KING PUMICE WOOD STOVE FIREBRICK [PP1901] WHOLE & UNCUT 6 PACK at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

The glass gasket can be a generic flat gasket. Usually these are sticky on one side for easier placement. A stove glass replacement shop will have this:

Gaskets - Wood Stove Gaskets - Page 1 - Fast Replacement Glass

Keep your wood stove working efficiently with our high-quality wood stove gasket.

www.fastreplacementglass.com

This is the first time I have heard of a door needing replacement. What happened to yours? The part for the black door is CAST.46ST. The glass clips are part SSER.1425
I would try contacting many PE dealers to see if you can find one that had a customer that upgraded their stove door from black to nickel or gold plated. Or find a damaged stove for sale used? Here is a seller that has one for the Spectrum. Maybe ask if they have a Summit door? The quoted price sounds really high. I would expect it to be more like $500. Call around.
Locally, Wallace Stoves is a reputable PE Dealer in the Tacoma area. Here's their website:

Wood Stoves — Wallace's Stove & Fireplace

www.wallacestoves.com

Not sure about this place:

PE Door, Summit - Met. Black - 11190007

www.camdesigns.org

 

[begreen]

Post a Wanted item in the Hearth.com classified too.

 

[KonaKane]

Thanks for the feedback, suggestions, and links. I will pursue. Being on one of the "outer islands" in Hawaii presents a unique difficulty in availability/options and getting any heavy and/or fragile items shipped here safely, quickly, or inexpensively. But it can be done - just more difficult.

1) The door: the "door" is fine. It is the frame that holds the glass, that is the problem. See pics. I am worried I will not able to successfully remove (unscrew) the old clips and screw new ones tightly. I am also concerned about the "glass gasket" because this one seems to be of a special rope gasket type and size of material - again see pics. And also concerned I may receive incorrect parts for this Series A. Of course, if I dismantle this and mess it up (break off or strip the screws), or have incorrect parts, I will now have an unworkable stove until I can get the right parts or new door. And that could be many months given the difficulty in ordering and getting them. The "used" door option is worth pursuing. Can anyone confirm that any PE Summit door will fit this Summit Series A???
2) The fire bricks: I did order new fire bricks awhile back - but the few weird sizes had me perplexed as I did not know how to cut them - and wouldn't mind purchasing a "factory" set to just install easily and precisely. If I could be assured of the proper order number.
3) The baffle: I think I have that one figured out - with correct part number including insulation, etc.

Thanks again for that contact in Tacoma - but many dealers I have contacted will not ship. They may even be forbidden from shipping? Do you know if that is the case?

 

[begreen]

The glass retainer bar part # is SUMM312501, the door glass clamps are SSER 1425. The new Summit LE part #s are: 80000399 and 80000369. I suspect the new door parts will work ok on the Summit A.

Are there no PE dealers in Hawaii?

 

[KonaKane]

Are there no PE dealers in Hawaii?

As you can imagine, there isn't a big need for wood stoves in Hawaii. Only on two islands do people live high enough for it to be cool enough to need one. There is one on the island where I live - not on PE locator list - and I imagine they don't sell many stoves, and don't do any installations. They are in fact a pool supply company that has a few stoves in the corner of their store.

But the owner, who is the only one knowledgeable about stoves is only available via email. And while responsive, he admits getting the right parts is "risky" and for anything heavy/fragile will take a long time and need to come in with his infrequent container loads.

At this point, I am only worried about the door. I believe I have the baffle and fire brick replacement figured out.

Another dealer on another island says a complete door for that stove is unavailable. But he would order the parts, assemble it himself and charge me over $1500 when all said and done. And of course would like to sell and install a new stove for me.

In short - I am not feeling a high degree of confidence I would even get a working air tight door. PE tells me I could run into trouble trying to rebuild my stove and have to re-tap the screw holes if they break off, etc. And I am still unclear if a "newer" replacement door would fit my stove.

The good news is the Cam Design link you sent has been very helpful. They say a factory assembled door is available $750, and is checking on the fit and how/if they could get it here. So, maybe I'll get lucky, but until it arrives unbroken, is installed and seals properly, I won't breath easy. Sometimes it isn't easy living in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

Thanks again for your time and feedback. I will let everyone know what happens.

 

[begreen]

A complete door when the parts you need are available is pretty crazy. Ask the dealer to order those specific items. The door glass bar and clips should be under $200.

In short - I am not feeling a high degree of confidence I would even get a working air tight door. PE tells me I could run into trouble trying to rebuild my stove and have to re-tap the screw holes if they break off, etc. And I am still unclear if a "newer" replacement door would fit my stove.

This is possible, but not as bad as it sounds. The old stub drills out quickly with a fresh bit and the tapping is easy. It's about a 10-minute job with the right tools. Would the place that offered to build up a door do this with the current door instead of a new one? If not, a local machine shop could drill and tap if a bolt breaks.

 

[KonaKane]

A complete door when the parts you need are available is pretty crazy. Ask the dealer to order those specific items. The door glass bar and clips should be under $200.

This is possible, but not as bad as it sounds. The old stub drills out quickly with a fresh bit and the tapping is easy. It's about a 10-minute job with the right tools. Would the place that offered to build up a door do this with the current door instead of a new one? If not, a local machine shop could drill and tap if a bolt breaks.

I understand. I may do both.

If I had done one of these before, and had any experience tapping and drilling, and had the tools - I would be on it. Or if there was a "local machine shop." I might give that a try. But again, if anything went wrong, I would be without a stove for who knows how long.

The place that offered to build a door didn't even quote me all the parts, and one of them I know was wrong. And they are over an hour away, and were slow to get an initial response. So, not feeling warm and fuzzy about them.

If I get a new door, and it works, at least I have a working stove. Then I can try and fix the door. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have a "backup" door anyway - as an ace in the hole for anything that could break or go wrong in the future - given the difficulties I have to deal with.

I sure do miss Tom. His son was living on Kauai (another Hawaiian Island) - maybe still does - so he understood the difficulties in getting things done correctly over here.

I'll let you know how things end up. Thanks again.

 

[KonaKane]

FYI - I did get this response from PE. So, this helps, knowing that a new door would work.
"We started building Summits in 1998 and have only used 2 doors, one from 1998-2003 and the second from 2003- present."

 

[begreen]

I never did a drill and tap before I rebuilt our Jotul 602. It turned out to be quite easy. I soaked the bolts in penetrating oil overnight. Most came out, but 2 broke. I made sure that I had the right-sized drill bit, and got a cheap bottoming tap of the right size from the local hardware store, then proceeded slowly. Like I said, the actual process took about 10 minutes per bolt.

 

[KonaKane]

I never did a drill and tap before I rebuilt our Jotul 602. It turned out to be quite easy. I soaked the bolts in penetrating oil overnight. Most came out, but 2 broke. I made sure that I had the right-sized drill bit, and got a cheap bottoming tap of the right size from the local hardware store, then proceeded slowly. Like I said, the actual process took about 10 minutes per bolt.

Good to know. Not sure what a bottoming tap is, and I imagine I need to use a drill press - which I would have to buy. My cheapo broke a while ago. But it is a useful thing to know how to do, and you can teach an old dog new tricks.

Again - I appreciate the feedback.

 

[begreen]

Good to know. Not sure what a bottoming tap is, and I imagine I need to use a drill press - which I would have to buy. My cheapo broke a while ago. But it is a useful thing to know how to do, and you can teach an old dog new tricks.

Again - I appreciate the feedback.

No need for a drill press. Just remove the door and lay it flat, keep the drill perpendicular. I used a slightly smaller drill bit first to remove the shank of the bolt, then went with the tap-sized drill bit. Google bottoming tap, the tip does not taper. This is for blind holes as there will be on the door frame.

Tap and die - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org