PE Super 27 burn times - is there something wrong?

Bozol Posted By Bozol, Nov 18, 2012 at 12:54 AM

  1. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz
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    Nov 3, 2006
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    You need to remove the baffle every time you clean the stack! If you pull the pin and drop the baffle down, you will find your problem. All the crap the sweep brushed down the stack, which is now laying on the baffle top around the stove outlet, prolly clogging it mostly. Either that or your cap is clogged already.
     
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  2. Bozol

    Bozol
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    Oct 13, 2012
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    I think you're right hog. The dude who installed the stove is coming over tomorrow morning to show me how to remove the chimney pipe from the stove to get all the crud out and also how to remove the baffle (I'm assuming that is the plate on the ceiling of the firebox) to do the same. I did go on the roof to look at the cap and it wasn't 'clogged' but there was some ice on it (never saw that with the old stove) and there was quite a bit of black crud on it. Is there anything you can do to reduce the amount of soot forming on the inside of the cap and chimney?
     
  3. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz
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    Nov 3, 2006
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    Hold on. If the stack is dropping straight into the stove. No need to remove the pipe. Is this a straight up install or does it go through the wall?
    As far as the cap. If your burning really good dry wood, you should not get enough build up all winter to worry about it. This year, you may want to check it once a month just to get a feel for what it is doing.
    If the cap has a screen, if the screen openings are smaller than 1/2", change the screen out for one that has at least 1/2" or larger openings. Mine are 1/2" and not a problem. They got a lil clogged my first year cause I was burning less than dry wood. What temps are you cruising at?
     
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  4. Bozol

    Bozol
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    Oct 13, 2012
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    It's a straight install - the chimney is from an old stove which I replaced with my new one just a couple of months ago. No through the wall stuff. No screen on the cap and there's about a 3/4 gap going all the way around where smoke is supposed to escape. The guy coming over thinks that it's easier to ease the accordion stovepipe up from the base to clean rather than remove the baffle from the inside. However, he's going to show me how to do both.

    Yeah, we've been burning what I would consider dry stuff. It's all standing dead or pretty easy to split driftwood.

    Any comments on burning the beer can idea?
     
  5. Sprinter

    Sprinter
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    Bozol, would you be able to take some pics as you go along? I'd like to see the process and see which method you think is better, and it may help to see what you have built up in there.

    Just how new is this installation? I'm a little concerned if you have such a buildup of crud with a new stove install. Was the pipe and chimney cleaned before the new stove was installed? On one hand you say the the wood is burning quickly which sounds like dry wood, but what you are describing in the chimney sounds like poor wood. I've gotten into standing snags that were a lot wetter than I thought. If you don't have a moisture meter, I'd suggest getting one. Otherwise, it's just guesswork. Also, what is the source of the driftwood? You definitely don't want to use saltwater driftwood.

    What stovetop temps are you getting?
     
  6. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz
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    Bozol,
    The baffle should come out to clean properly. If not, the crap that is swept down will only pile right on top of the baffle at the stoves outlet hole. Did he at least vacuum the crap out for the outlet with the pipe off?
    If/when you take the baffle out, and sweep that way, make sure you cover the secondary supply channel at the back of the stove(vertical channel and the baffle shits over), otherwise the crud will fall right down into the channel. Don't see how he thinks its easier leaving the baffle in. Taking it out, meas you don't have to disturb the stack, and the crap all falls right into the stove, no dust, no mess.
     
  7. etiger2007

    etiger2007
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    Feb 8, 2012
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    I cleaned my liner earlier this year and did not remove the baffle to get evrything out of the top of the stove. I went to light a fire and smoke poured out everywhere. So I pulled the baffle down and the soot that had fallen from the liner had clogged the path for the smoke to exit the stove and up the liner, dropped the baffle and cleaned it right and never an issue after that.
     
  8. Dunragit

    Dunragit
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    Dec 3, 2011
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    moisture meter asap
     
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  9. Cudos

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    Aug 11, 2009
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    Hi there, I too have the Super 27 (love it)!! anyways when I had mine installed by a "wett" dude I too had some issues, a little back puffing in to the room and just not burning as I thought it should. Turns out the installed did not remove the circular cut out from under neath the stove. One I pounded that out my problems were over. Now i admit I did not read this whole thread so I don't know if you covered this.

    Once I pounded that out my draft was better. When I open the door to reload I open slowly to about an inch then real slow the rest of the way. No smoke!!

    Good luck!!
     
  10. thechimneysweep

    thechimneysweep
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    Nov 19, 2005
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    Bozol, you say you're burning standing dead softwood and driftwood, and turning your air control down for the longest possible burn, and wonder why your cap plugged up with creosote?

    Because you're burning standing dead softwood and driftwood, and turning your air control down for the longest possible burn.

    Never burn any wood unless you know its moisture content. You can determine this by cutting and stacking the wood out of the rain where air can circulate for one year before you burn it, or you can invest in a moisture meter. Standing dead wood and driftwood are to be presumed to be too wet to burn, and will demonstrate that by causing the kind of creosote formation that rapidly plugs up your cap.
     
  11. westkywood

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    Ha, Don't mean to sound like a "wood snob". Just stating what type of wood I burn and that it is well seasoned. It makes a big difference on the over all stove performance.
     
  12. westkywood

    westkywood
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    When I first started burning wood, a neighbor had a hickory tree that was dead and had been dead for several years. It was straight up, no limbs. He said " thats been standing dead for a few years, it's ready to burn". I took it home and tried to burn it. It wouldnt burn. Dead standing trees aren't seasoned.
    When I clean my Super 27, I take the single wall pipe off from the stove ( to the ceiling ) and wrap a pillow case and a trash bag over the pipe (sticking through the ceiling) and attach it with rope to the pipe to catch all the creosote. I then remove the baffle and clean the top of it.
     
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  13. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz
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    The soda or beer can trick, is a myth. Ain't going to do jack.
     
  14. corey21

    corey21
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    Your wood is not dry enough.

    The can will do nothing.
     
  15. Huntindog1

    Huntindog1
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    Like has been said Good Dry wood and load it up full not one or two pieces at a time.

    A Full load on hot coals will leave a only space up at top , the small space between the wood and the baffle plate that space with secondaries firing will heat up quickly with good dry wood loaded. Burning the wood smoke gas produces much more heat then just burning wood with flames. Stove has to be up to temps to get the secondaries to fire up in the top of the stove. Like 400 degree stove top temp then as you slowly close down the input air in 1/4 ways increments you will see better and better secondaries as the primary air is turned down with good heat in the stove. By quickly getting the heat up in the stove and primary air turned back down in due time you will not burn up all your wood for a long burn time.

    Think of the stove once it has a stove top temp of 400 or more as a smoke burner rather than a wood burner.
     
  16. Ront

    Ront
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    Bringing up an old post here:). I am not having any problems with my secondary air tube(I don't think) but after reading this I have a question. I have cleaned my chimney and removed the baffle before doing that. But I did not even think about soot going down the secondary air tube. Can I check that tube by just pushing something down it?

    Thanks, Ron
     
  17. begreen

    begreen
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    Fortunately most of the sote will fall straight down and hopefully only a small amount will head down the open tube. What happens next and where this stuff ends up depends on the PE stove model and version. On some models, like the Summit A, the secondary supply tube goes straight down and is open on the bottom. If the amount of crud is small it can just pile up under the tube. The newer Summit B&C have the EBT under the secondary tube. Building crud up there could adversely affect performance. I don't own one, but note that the Super 27 series has a linked secondary air valve under the tube, so it would seem possible that crud could accumulate on top of that valve plate if it was closed. To check this, pull the ash pan and look toward the rear of the stove to see if there is a pile of sote there. Another option would be to tape some small diameter hose to the nozzle of a shop vac and stick the hose down the secondary tube and clean it out.
     
  18. thechimneysweep

    thechimneysweep
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    Unless you've been burning wood that's wet enough to cause glaze creosote formation, which can break up in sizable chunks, the sweepings from your Super 27 flue will be very fine particles. If you feel you have some in your secondary air supply tube, pull your ash drawer and watch the place where the linkage goes while you actuate your draft control rapidly several times in succession. Any stage 1 or stage 2 particles will sift through, where they're easy to vacuum up.
     
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