Precise IR aim point - Jotul 550 Rockland

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Soundchasm

Minister of Fire
Sep 27, 2011
1,305
Dayton, OH
www.soundchasm.com
Hello Again,

I hope to explain this clearly and see if any other 550 owner's find the same thing as me. I haven't read anything that makes me put 100% stock in magnetic thermometers. And I get so many varied readings from every part of the stove there can't be a single point on the top. This is where I've landed.

The IR gun has a fairly narrow beam, and I've swept every inch of the stove, and I've found ONE tiny spot that always has the highest temp, and I think that should be my standard. It's not the top (inside the cowling), but the thin strip remaining above the protrusion that covers the air adjustment. I'm measuring the vertical surface - not the horizontal surface. This strip is about 3/16" tall.

I take the measurement from around 6", *perfectly level*, and I'll get a reading I understand like 450-500 when the stove is making good heat. When I sweep under the cowling, I'll see anywhere from 250-350, but always way below my single aimpoint.

I'd like to really unlock the stove from a burning perspective, and 550 is the highest at my spot. If I can get to 600-650 safely, and would really make this insert a better unit for my purposes.

A pic is worth a 1,000 words. If any other 550 owners can share their safe max temps at this aim point, then I know we're talking apples to apples.

Thanks,
Greg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5427.JPG
    IMG_5427.JPG
    157.8 KB · Views: 281
  • IMG_5428.JPG
    IMG_5428.JPG
    164.2 KB · Views: 203
I just had my new Rockland installed yesterday and I have been wondering the same thing. On my old Oslo I had the magnetic thermometer on the the top corner which mad it easy. I slid a magnetic into the slot just left of where you a shooting your IR. I also have an IR so I'll experiment with you findings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Soundchasm
I've found a different hot spot on my 550. I put my IR gun right up to the opening where the warm air blows out and aim at the point right in front of the flue collar, just forward of the weld. I regularly see temps of 650-750 at this spot, when the temp on the flue collar and other parts on the top of the stove read only around 400. When this hot spot gets to be around 700 I know I am burning efficiently and can feel the HEAT.

I will try out your spot this evening, and try and get pictures of mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Soundchasm
I've found a different hot spot on my 550. I put my IR gun right up to the opening where the warm air blows out and aim at the point right in front of the flue collar, just forward of the weld. I regularly see temps of 650-750 at this spot, when the temp on the flue collar and other parts on the top of the stove read only around 400. When this hot spot gets to be around 700 I know I am burning efficiently and can feel the HEAT.

I will try out your spot this evening, and try and get pictures of mine.

That's the spot I use that I mentioned in a different thread. I hit the weld or right near it. My stove top thermo is in the vent centered 3" back. After a while you can tell whats going on using that even if the readings are not terribly accurate, they are mostly just reference points any way. Between that and "reading" the fire I do OK.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Soundchasm
That's the spot I use that I mentioned in a different thread. I hit the weld or right near it. My stove top thermo is in the vent centered 3" back. After a while you can tell whats going on using that even if the readings are not terribly accurate, they are mostly just reference points any way. Between that and "reading" the fire I do OK.

Thanks guys. I think inserts are a little tougher to monitor all the way around since the top and stack aren't accessible. I'll make some measurements this evening between the weld and the spot I found. It'll be an IR temp "shootout"!

This apples to apples thing will end up doing me a world of good. I read such wild temp reading concerning such numerous stoves, so I'm excited that we can do collective research on a single unit.

Thanks,
Greg
 
OK, I've done about 8 samples. I'll consider that sufficient data since it fills a Post-It note... It comes to me that the shape below the aimpoint must be a capstone, so I'll call the two points above capstone and flue collar.

Above Capstone Flue Collar Diff
356 296 60

So I'm seeing 60 degrees hotter at this single aimpoint. If I were mechanically inclined, I'd try to pop that air control cover off and figure out what's going on, but I conclude I can run this stove much hotter than I generally do.
 
OK, I've done about 8 samples. I'll consider that sufficient data since it fills a Post-It note... It comes to me that the shape below the aimpoint must be a capstone, so I'll call the two points above capstone and flue collar.

Above Capstone Flue Collar Diff
356 296 60

So I'm seeing 60 degrees hotter at this single aimpoint. If I were mechanically inclined, I'd try to pop that air control cover off and figure out what's going on, but I conclude I can run this stove much hotter than I generally do.

I get a roughly similar temp at the flue vs my stove top thermo placement depending on where the most intense flames are hitting. My stove top generally seems to get to about 700. Gotten it hotter a couple times and I have looked as closely as I can even turned off all lights looking for any signs of that dreaded dull red glow and I have seen nothing, not even at the flue which seems to be the most consistently hot spot. So I conclude and others with this insert agree, go ahead and run hot. Mind you I think your smart to check things out thoroughly and learning what the stove can take.
 
I get a roughly similar temp at the flue vs my stove top thermo placement depending on where the most intense flames are hitting. My stove top generally seems to get to about 700. Gotten it hotter a couple times and I have looked as closely as I can even turned off all lights looking for any signs of that dreaded dull red glow and I have seen nothing, not even at the flue which seems to be the most consistently hot spot. So I conclude and others with this insert agree, go ahead and run hot. Mind you I think your smart to check things out thoroughly and learning what the stove can take.

Thanks. Just to be clear, you're using an IR gun for the flue temps? 700 seems like a really robust temperature, like WOW. I know I see those numbers frequently, but it is difficult to judge what you can't easily see.

You know, it just occurred to me that I could get a magnetic thermometer, put it in a skillet, and use the IR gun to check its calibration. That plan is so crazy it just might work. ;)

This is the first winter I've had a fighting chance to get the stove temps up. Prior to the MM, I'd been burning wet wood. I hope that some of that phenomenal price we paid is the capacity of these stoves to burn hot and safe.
 
Did some maintenance on the 550. Popped off the bottom front grill. Vacuumed everything thing out including the fan blades adjusted the upper heat shield that vibrates against the switch housing. Theres some rust in the back right corner but was otherwise clean. Couple questions.

1) Don't see where to oil the fans are they serviceable?

2) What do you use to clean the exterior cast iron?

3) Was looking for air inlets for the dog house air. Can't find them but I would like to try limiting the amount of air into the box to extend the burn anyone do this? Tinfoil over the both sides of the dog house?

* Edit; meant this to be posted in the Jotul tips thread
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.