Please read ask questions before you purchase a stove. We need to put together a primer for the new stove buyer, step by step education process. Most post start out which stove is best. The main concern is already missed. You are buying a stove without factoring the installation process. First question one should ask what is required for a successful install? What is the area size you are trying to heat? 1. What is the dimensions or my existing chimney liner? Is my chimney tall enough to draft correctly? One-story ranch homes have short chimneys. Many manufactures specs call for a certain minimum vertical length to draft correctly (usually around 16’) 2. If it is being shared with another appliance it can not be used. Seperate flues for each appliance 3. What is the condition of the chimney and liner? When was the last time it was cleaned and inspected? Are the clay flues relatively straight and aligned? Does the chimney have any missing, damaged flue tiles, or mortar missing between flue tiles? Also look for missing or deteriorating bricks and for excessive creosote build up. All creosote should be cleaned and removed to prevent a fire hazard 4. Have you factored in its location? Chimneys located on outside walls with 3 sides exposed to the weather draft poorer than central located ones. Will I need a full liner? Do I have room for it? Should it be insulated? 5. Liners:, Which are best? Corrugated are cheaper but not as good as smooth round ones. Governing codes require HT 2100 and UL approval 103. Some liners are tested with insulation; meaning insulation must be used but meet code requirements. Flue size constraints may rule out insulated liners, so one must use the better grade liner without insulation. One could be lucky and have a separate good condition 8/8 clay flue, where a connector pipe is all that is needed. Remember, this is a primer I hope all will expand upon. 6. Using your existing fireplace to vent the stove: NFPA 211 2003 cross-sectional code all 6” flue collar a stoves require a full liner using the fireplace flue in an exposed outside wall chimney. The only direct connection for an 6” flue collar stove, is when it is being connected to an interior chimney. The 12/12 is too large to draft from a 6” collar. A full liner is required and there is plenty of room for insulation. The problem start with the 8/12 clay flue, having inside measurements of 6.75 by 11” Quite a chore insulating it in that confined space, especially if, the flues are not aligned or you encounter an off set. Code also requires the damper area to be blocked off 7. What to do with the damper obstacle? The plate is removed. The remaining opening is less than 6”. There are a couple of options here, flue wise. The damper frame is broken out so that the 6” will fit through; the other option is to ovalize the flue. Even though it remains the same interior area, ovalizing creates friction (A great place for creosote build up). Add the fiction associated with corrugate liners and the friction is compounded worse. The code calls for closing off the damper area with a metal plate. A couple of final points about venting. Do not assume because your fireplace drafted ok the new wood stove will also. Your fireplace has close to 900 sq inches your stove 28, quite a difference. 8. Connecting pipes, the pipes that connect the stove to the flue. They have to be no less than 24 gage steel and pitch upward to the chimney inlet. A better product to use is welded seam 22 gage connector pipe. Again horizontal runs should be as short as possible with fewest directional changes. Some Stove manufactures list the maximum length of run and maximum turns or elbows Each connector pipe must fully pushed in so that no corrugation is seen and have 1.5” overlap, and be fastened by sheet metal screws or rivets 3 equally spaced per joint. Clearance to combustibles of single wall pipe is 18” in all directions Double wall pipe or triple wall pipes reduce the clearance distances, but once used the rest of the run must be Double wall you can not go back to single wall.