Problem with draw after replacing chimney cap (problem solved!!!)

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if the plate is mounted right you could send that roto to the moon. I don't think it has any thing to with the wood
Those HH will season wood pick.
 
GolfandWoodNut said:
Burd said:
That liner was pushed up from the roto route witch Brooke the seal of the silicone most liner are meant to be cleaned from the top down. Just like
We install them. That liner lifted at least six inch

There was no sign of any sealant used.
t
They were hoping the liner would hold the plate down.have
 
Burd said:
if the plate is mounted right you could send that roto to the moon. I don't think it has any thing to with the wood
Those HH will season wood pick.
What?
 
Burd said:
GolfandWoodNut said:
Burd said:
That liner was pushed up from the roto route witch Brooke the seal of the silicone most liner are meant to be cleaned from the top down. Just like
We install them. That liner lifted at least six inch

There was no sign of any sealant used.
t
They were hoping the liner would hold the plate down.have
What?
 
Sorry I was taking about installing the new cap. The plate( well that a joke)
 
Common sense is to have flanges down all four sides. If the top plate has no flanges down the sides, and the sealant is not complete all the way around the top of the clay, water has an easy chance of running in and down. Having a seam all the way around the top that could work open in time , ain't something that would be done on this house. To rely on silicone alone may or may not hold in time. Not worth gambling on IMO. Bu thats just me. I prefer to do things right the first time.
If you don't have a bottom block off plate installed, you may want to consider that also. Insulating the top is great, but does not stop the heat from going up from the bottom up and absorbed by the masonry and out into the great wide open. Best of luck whatever way you do it.
 
Got binoculars? Take a look from the ground. You should be able to see if the screen is blocked or the ss liner is pushed up above the level of the clay liner.
 
Hogwildz said:
Common sense is to have flanges down all four sides. If the top plate has no flanges down the sides, and the sealant is not complete all the way around the top of the clay, water has an easy chance of running in and down. Having a seam all the way around the top that could work open in time , ain't something that would be done on this house. To rely on silicone alone may or may not hold in time. Not worth gambling on IMO. Bu thats just me. I prefer to do things right the first time.
If you don't have a bottom block off plate installed, you may want to consider that also. Insulating the top is great, but does not stop the heat from going up from the bottom up and absorbed by the masonry and out into the great wide open. Best of luck whatever way you do it.
There is nothing at all wrong with the style of plate that was shown nor is there any thing wrong with sealing it down with silicone, it's designed this way. The plate overlaps the entire clay, the silicone simply keeps it from moving, and it does a very good job. I like the other cap, it's much more expensive though and doesn't always work, often there is no clay or not to mention all the different sizes we would have to carry. In the field the standard bottom plate is much more versatile, thats why there are many thousands of them out there, siliconed down and having no problems.
 
Just and update, problem appears solved. I had another installer/cleaner out today. A couple of young kids that work for a pretty good size company Buck Stove near here. They took my old cap and removed the circular metal around the metal with tin snips and also cut the top out of the mesh, but small enough not to allow birds to enter. They also cut some mesh out on 4 sides to make some larger openings but too small for a bird. They said the problem was the pipe was too close to the top of the other cap, only a few inches. The old cap is much taller and provides much better draw. So I wasted a lot of time and money on this issue and back with the original cap and a properly sealed plate. They did a sweep while they where up there and I go maybe 3/4 of a coffee can of creosote, they said it did not look bad. I lit a fire and tried various stages of opening the door and it always drew the smoke up the chimney. So just so others know that the type of cap can make a huge difference, I thought I was doing something good getting a large cap, but the height is the key.
 
webby3650 said:
The only thing I could think of, is maybe the flex runs too far up into the new cap? It's kinda odd to have problems with keeping the cap clear with a Jotul or any high end stove, is your wood dry?
Webby, this appears to have been the issue, just not enough clearance. As Brother Bart and a few others said it needed trim for the new cap, however this really would not work because the top plate extends the liner up a few inches so it would need a different top plate in order to have adequate clearance in the box style cap.
 
Looks like the issue was the liner too close to the top of the cap, as was suspected, not so much the cap itself.
Glad to hear your issue is solved.
 
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