Problems with Hampton 300HI Wood Insert

[ggailbo]

Before I spend money to get these issues fixed, I thought I'd ask this group if you've run into anything similar.

My Hampton is about 5 years old and had it installed. I can't remember the price and can't find any of the paperwork to check, something unusual for me as I generally keep these items all in one place. Anyway, it was professionally installed and I didn't watch the installation, nor do I have instructions.

Issue One is that the automatic blower is not working anymore. It used to. So it manually needs to be turned on and off, something I really miss having.

Issue Two is that a firestone broke off and is now patched together but it is letting air out...where can I get a new brick for this? Are they easily available in the sizes needed?

Issue Three is that the handle that opens and closes the damper vibrates. So you are sitting there and all of a sudden this noise kicks in and so I kick it (gently) and it quiets it down for a minute. I don't know how it attaches inside or why it's vibrating. It just seems like I could fix it if I knew.

Does anyone have any insight into these issues? Thanks so much!

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Welcome aboard! I have the same stove.

1) Pull the blower assembly and make sure all dust is cleaned out of it, especially the fins and around the sensor. A vibration from the fan could cause that handle noise. Also- if the blower assembly is not seated properly, it would have to be REALLY hot to automatically kick on- make sure the assembly is attached by the little hooks/tabs to the stove body.

2) Contact the dealer where you bought the stove for a replacement- should be easy. How could it be leaking air? The stove is sealed. Replace at your leisure, but it's not going to leak air through a cracked brick.

3) Never had a problem with mine- but I would first look to minimize fan vibration. If this doesn't work, maybe find a way to line the offending area with stove gasket?

 

[egclassic]

I also have the same stove. You can go to their website and download the manual for the stove. It has a break down and parts numbers for replacement items.
My damper vibrates a little here and there, like you said, just bump it and it stops.

Here, scroll to the bottom and you will see the owners manualUnder the Literature & Specs Tab
http://www.regency-fire.com/Product...Iron-Stoves,-Fireplaces---Inserts/HI300.aspx#

 

[begreen]

The automatic blower malfunction is probably due to a failed, fan thermodisk. It is part of the blower assembly. Check to be sure it is still in good contact with the stove body when in place. If it is, then check to see if it has failed. If you carefully short across it's terminals, does the fan come on? If so, the snap switch is bad and needs to be replaced. (This is live 120V, so only try this test if you know how to do it safely.)

 

[Stump_Branch]

How big of a problem are these fans/blowers? I am currently looking at one and have been of the belief that they are solid units. Are these just quirks?

 

[Adios Pantalones]

My blower has operated for about 6-7 yrs. I've not had a sensor issue, but it does need cleaning and oiling on a regular basis. The efficiency increase for an insert with a blower is amazing, and I would never run an insert without one (unless it was a little "mood" enhancing fire, in which case heat is generated by other means).

 

[Stump_Branch]

How is it in general? Large enough box? How much area are you heating with it? Burn times? can you n/s load it? Curious as i might be able to get a deal on one and want to step up from the matchbox i currently burn in.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

The box could be larger. I'm heating a 1600 sqft log home- somewhat drafty- and it keeps up pretty well except on the coldest days. The heat flows well throughout my house, which helps.

 

[Stump_Branch]

Thanks, i must say its a great looking stove. Ill be trying for 2100 not the best layout but like i said anything is an up grade. Can you straight in load it. Im trying to think back on the box. Techically its the same as the regency insert and freestanding, no?

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Ya, Hampton is (I think) a fancy Regency. I load N/S or E/W with 18" logs. The 300 is their bigger insert. It likes to be stuffed to the gills at startup. I'd like a freestanding stove for more oomph, but the layout of the room that makes sense would get all wonky and there's a nice wooden mantle above it, so insert it is (until I pull the trigger on a wood boiler and storage... then the insert is supplemental and ambiance).

 

[Stump_Branch]

Thays what i was thinking/ have been told. Wife like the n/s so splits dont roll on glass. Shes more of set and forget for awhile much to my worries. Course i like it too.

Wood boiler? Some folks have them around here, always seem smoky, i bet its their wood but never could get past it. You cant wrap your kiln in pipes? Kidding, Would think that thing would be more than enough.

Thanks again.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Not an old outdoor wood boiler- an in-the-basement gasifying crazy efficient one. drool drool

 

[Stump_Branch]

Now thats something we can agree on. Id like one except not sure of resale. While i dont mind the wood i imagine it a turn-off for when i sell this house

 

[Adios Pantalones]

My oil burner will automatically kick on when the wood boiler runs cold (standard arrangement), so it should not hurt house resale value. It also heats domestic hot water- check out the boiler forum here

 

[Stump_Branch]

Indeed i shall.

Oh to the OP, i do believe oiling and cleaning the blower out is that way on all of them. I do mine at least once, maybe twice a year.

 

[egclassic]

I have had my Hampton for only one season, but it performed very well. My house is about 1700 SqFt, and not exactly the best layout, but I installed a doorway fan to direct heat to back bedrooms and it did really well. Speaking of cleaning and oiling the blower, I can't seem to figure out how to get the whole assembly out. I know from reading the manual that it has some sort of "clips" or something, but I can't get her to budge.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

I have had my Hampton for only one season, but it performed very well. My house is about 1700 SqFt, and not exactly the best layout, but I installed a doorway fan to direct heat to back bedrooms and it did really well. Speaking of cleaning and oiling the blower, I can't seem to figure out how to get the whole assembly out. I know from reading the manual that it has some sort of "clips" or something, but I can't get her to budge.

Grab it by either side and pull directly outward. May have to wiggle back and forth a bit.

 

[pastera]

Make sure the thermodisc is making good contact - bending the bracket out and a little heatsink grease helps a lot.

I have the HI200 and the fan made a horrendous racket until I shimmed under the sheet metal braket that holds the fan motor.

This is the baby brother to your stove and it keeps the boiler off in a 3000+ sqrft home (but needs to be fed often)

 

[ggailbo]

Thanks for the responses which are helpful. Meanwhile I contacted a local company to come take a look at the fireplace. First thing, they told me it would cost me $85 for them to come look at it (they are two miles away). But since they are pretty much the only local place, I had them check it out. They came back and told me the pipe that fits into my masonry chimney was crushed and that I needed to have my chimney relined and it would cost me $2250...plus I needed a new blower...and probably would need new tiles inserted.

My house is only 11 years old And the fireplace has worked flawlessly since I've been there (8 years). I had the chimney cleaned a few years ago and no one said there were issues then. And I haven't been there much these last few years. My fireplace insert also worked just fine except for the two issues I asked you folks about. I think someone is trying to get my money (and I have none)...and that I don't have any issue with the chimney at all.

Don't these inserts just use flexible pipe that is fit into the chimney for a few feet up? Then the masonry chimney is used to channel the smoke for the rest of the way up and out of the roof? Of course, I want this to be safe but I really think someone is trying to "burn" me (no pun intended). Does anyone have any additional thoughts given this new information?

 

[North of 60]

A couple of concerns that I have picked up reading your posts.
1) You said a couple of years since the last cleaning. Should be minimum once a year and twice for sure doesn't hurt. ESPECIALLY IF YOUR CHIMNEY ISN'T LINED! This is wether you have burned much or not being there. Is it an interior or exterior chimney?
2) Lining your chimney with a stainless liner is a good investment and shouldn't cost $2250. Stove performance is increased with running a hotter flue along with less creosote that would form on the existing cooler masonry. Easier to sweep or clean yourself depending on your wood being properly seasoned.
Hope this helps.
Cheers

 

[hwdemers]

One not you might like. Hampton just redid there surounds so much esaier to assembel now. We will not install or service an insert without a linner. To much room for unhappy customers. Sweeps libary has a great artical explaining the reasons for a full reline.

 

[hwdemers]

Note*

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the responses which are helpful. Meanwhile I contacted a local company to come take a look at the fireplace. First thing, they told me it would cost me $85 for them to come look at it (they are two miles away). But since they are pretty much the only local place, I had them check it out. They came back and told me the pipe that fits into my masonry chimney was crushed and that I needed to have my chimney relined and it would cost me $2250...plus I needed a new blower...and probably would need new tiles inserted.

My house is only 11 years old And the fireplace has worked flawlessly since I've been there (8 years). I had the chimney cleaned a few years ago and no one said there were issues then. And I haven't been there much these last few years. My fireplace insert also worked just fine except for the two issues I asked you folks about. I think someone is trying to get my money (and I have none)...and that I don't have any issue with the chimney at all.

Don't these inserts just use flexible pipe that is fit into the chimney for a few feet up? Then the masonry chimney is used to channel the smoke for the rest of the way up and out of the roof? Of course, I want this to be safe but I really think someone is trying to "burn" me (no pun intended). Does anyone have any additional thoughts given this new information?

It sounds like you could benefit from a neutral, but trained chimney sweep's advice. Was the insert was installed without a full liner and just a stub of pipe? If so, and the chimney flue is large, then that may affect performance. So would a crushed pipe. But that's unlikely related to the blower issue. Did you try the suggestions to increase contact with the snap switch and the stove body?

How did the insert perform last season? Good or poorly? If it performed well it may be that the stub was ovalized(crushed) to fit past the damper, but is still sufficiently oval to vent well. If the stove performed poorly, spilling smoke when the door was opened and with a weak fire, then possibly the stub was crushed or it has too large a flue and will need a full liner.

 

[ggailbo]

The insert has performed wonderfully since I had it so that's why I was so surprised at what I was told. I'm a bit nervous because I never did receive an inspection on it from the town, nor do I have a permit. ...like it says in the manual. I like the advise to get a chimney sweep in there and clean the chimney, and then see if they are alarmed by anything or could offer advise on the vibration and the auto shutoff of the blower. Since I'm not at the house right now, and it's my tenant there, I will see if the sweep can look at those connections as well. Someone else told me the chimney should be cleaned as well.

 

[begreen]

Good plan, get a good sweep that is certified and has good references. Ask for a full, detailed written report on the flue condition, size and insert connection.