Progress to be installed Thursday morning!

[BrowningBAR]

She's installed! I'm in love - with the stove, not the chimney sweeps :lol: I plan on writing up about the install, but will do that in a separate thread with more pics. For now, here's one:

That flooring is identical to what I have in my dining room.

 

[pen]

Can't wait to hear how it works out for you.

pen

 

[HollowHill]

Well she must be so mesmerized by the beauty that she forgot to post pictures. ;-P

You are not far off, Todd. There is a definite drawback to not having the computer in the living room

 

[mattjmcl]

Wow! Looks great!

 

[Dix]

Looks great, HH !! Now fire that puppy up

 

[fire_man]

HollowHill:

Looks really good!! A few questions:

1. What's the hearth made from, is that a pad or did you build it? From the picture The Hearth like its under some of the wall trim.

2. Are you ok on the side clearance requirements (24")? It almost looks like the molding around the fireplace opening sticks out past the brick. I checked with WS and they said to measure perpendicular from the side of the stove to any protruding combustible surface, and this should be 24" min.

3. How are you going to clean the flue - it looks like you can't get to the "T" without moving the stove.

4. Do you still need to install the ashlip? Otherwise the front clearance has to be 12" with Hearth R value of 0.8.

Please let us know all the break-in details! That is one great looking stove and setup.

 

[HollowHill]

HollowHill:

Looks really good!! A few questions:

1. What's the hearth made from, is that a pad or did you build it? From the picture The Hearth like its under some of the wall trim.

2. Are you ok on the side clearance requirements (24")? It almost looks like the molding around the fireplace opening sticks out past the brick. I checked with WS and they said to measure perpendicular from the side of the stove to any protruding combustible surface, and this should be 24" min.

3. How are you going to clean the flue - it looks like you can't get to the "T" without moving the stove.

4. Do you still need to install the ashlip? Otherwise the front clearance has to be 12" with Hearth R value of 0.8.

Please let us know all the break-in details! That is one great looking stove and setup.

My contractor built the pad. It's made from 1/2" Durock Next Gen and porcelain tile (.39 + .02) for an R-value of .41. My contractor will be pleased that you think it goes under some of the wall trim, that's the look he was going for and, I think, he nailed it. But, it actually abuts the wall trim, does not go under it.

The moulding does stick out past the brick by about 2". However, the stove sits in front of the mantel such that the mantel shelf, which sticks out 7 3/4" from the brick does not overhang the stove top. So, the rear clearances apply to the mantel since all of the mantel is behind the stove (by more than the 7" required with the rear heat shield). Does that make sense? I sure hope I'm understanding that correctly. If I were to measure perpendicular from the side of the stove (meaning at right angles from the side, correct?), there is nothing within 24". The mantel legs are behind the stove at about a 45 degree angle, so the rear heat shield clearances are in effect. My installers didn't inspire me with confidence on the whole checking the clearances issue, so I'm depending on my understanding of things. Correct me if I'm wrong, please.

There is actually quite a bit of space/opening behind the stove to get to the tee which is in the fireplace. The stove sits 11" in front of the fireplace opening, and from the side, there is 13" wide "path" to reach in and get to the tee, seems doable to me and I know that the installers who will be sweeping the chimney plan on accessing the tee when cleaning without moving the stove (something they would rather NOT do again ).

Yes, I do need the ashlip, which I hear is not coming in for several weeks. The front clearance is 12" already and I'm going to lay some leftover durock in front of the stove to get the r-value up there to compensate for the ashlip absence.

I hope to start the break-ins tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Thanks, it's a beautiful stove (thank you, Woodstock).

 

[wkpoor]

She's arrived in Cooperstown, only 30 minutes away. So near, yet so far...

Checklist:
-Wood in shed: check
-Fire extinguishers in living room: check
-additional smoke detectors: still need to install, tomorrow night's project
-super cedars: check
-matches: check
-notify insurance company: check
-get Chimflex for chimney fires: check
-CO detectors installed: check
-discuss escape route with family: need to do, any suggestions from fire fighters? My plan is to feel bedroom doors, if hot, use escape ladders to go out window; if not hot, open slowly and keep down low to floor and go out outside door
-set up ash can - galvanized garbage can outside about 15 feet from house: still need to do
-set up fans for circulation blowing toward stove room: still need to do

Anything else I've forgotten? :ahhh:

I just read your first post in this thread and I'm LMAO. After heating my home for over 10yrs the only thing on your list I've done is the first one.

 

[fire_man]

HollowHill:

Looks really good!! A few questions:

1. What's the hearth made from, is that a pad or did you build it? From the picture The Hearth like its under some of the wall trim.

2. Are you ok on the side clearance requirements (24")? It almost looks like the molding around the fireplace opening sticks out past the brick. I checked with WS and they said to measure perpendicular from the side of the stove to any protruding combustible surface, and this should be 24" min.

3. How are you going to clean the flue - it looks like you can't get to the "T" without moving the stove.

4. Do you still need to install the ashlip? Otherwise the front clearance has to be 12" with Hearth R value of 0.8.

Please let us know all the break-in details! That is one great looking stove and setup.

My contractor built the pad. It's made from 1/2" Durock Next Gen and porcelain tile (.39 + .02) for an R-value of .41. My contractor will be pleased that you think it goes under some of the wall trim, that's the look he was going for and, I think, he nailed it. But, it actually abuts the wall trim, does not go under it.

The moulding does stick out past the brick by about 2". However, the stove sits in front of the mantel such that the mantel shelf, which sticks out 7 3/4" from the brick does not overhang the stove top. So, the rear clearances apply to the mantel since all of the mantel is behind the stove (by more than the 7" required with the rear heat shield). Does that make sense? I sure hope I'm understanding that correctly. If I were to measure perpendicular from the side of the stove (meaning at right angles from the side, correct?), there is nothing within 24". The mantel legs are behind the stove at about a 45 degree angle, so the rear heat shield clearances are in effect. My installers didn't inspire me with confidence on the whole checking the clearances issue, so I'm depending on my understanding of things. Correct me if I'm wrong, please.

There is actually quite a bit of space/opening behind the stove to get to the tee which is in the fireplace. The stove sits 11" in front of the fireplace opening, and from the side, there is 13" wide "path" to reach in and get to the tee, seems doable to me and I know that the installers who will be sweeping the chimney plan on accessing the tee when cleaning without moving the stove (something they would rather NOT do again ).

Yes, I do need the ashlip, which I hear is not coming in for several weeks. The front clearance is 12" already and I'm going to lay some leftover durock in front of the stove to get the r-value up there to compensate for the ashlip absence.

I hope to start the break-ins tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Thanks, it's a beautiful stove (thank you, Woodstock).

I think you are interpreting the clearance requirements correctly. The 24" side clearance requirement is measured at right angles from the side of the stove. Sounds right about the mantel, too. Are you getting it inspected?

I'm glad you mentioned the delay for the ashlip, I will have to see about doing the same thing and use some leftover cement board to build a temporary front pad. I wonder how wide it has to be?

 

[HollowHill]

I think you are interperating the clearacnce requirements correctly. The 24" side clearance requirement is measured at right angles from the side of the stove. Sounds right about the mantel, too. Are you getting it inspected?

I'm glad you mentioned the delay for the ashlip, I will have to see about doing the same thing and use some leftover cement board to build a temporary front pad. I wonder how wide it has to be?

No, I live way out in the boonies, we don't really have inspectors for such things, at least as far as I can determine. When we had the electrics for the barn inspected, my husband, who is not handy in any way, shape, or form, thought the inspector was even less so :roll: So, we kinda have to depend on the contractors knowing what they are doing. So far, we've been lucky and had good people. Wish I could be more sure of the installers in this instance.

I'm planning on making the temp pad as wide as the stove, as I figure that is what the ash lip will be. I'm a little worried about the Durock scratching the tile, or crumbling a bit and that scratching the tile, but I'm going to try to sandwich it in between 2 sheets of metal (like cookie sheets or some such).

 

[firefighterjake]

Fantastic looking stove and install.

 

[fire_man]

I think you are interperating the clearacnce requirements correctly. The 24" side clearance requirement is measured at right angles from the side of the stove. Sounds right about the mantel, too. Are you getting it inspected?

I'm glad you mentioned the delay for the ashlip, I will have to see about doing the same thing and use some leftover cement board to build a temporary front pad. I wonder how wide it has to be?

No, I live way out in the boonies, we don't really have inspectors for such things, at least as far as I can determine. When we had the electrics for the barn inspected, my husband, who is not handy in any way, shape, or form, thought the inspector was even less so :roll: So, we kinda have to depend on the contractors knowing what they are doing. So far, we've been lucky and had good people. Wish I could be more sure of the installers in this instance.

I'm planning on making the temp pad as wide as the stove, as I figure that is what the ash lip will be. I'm a little worried about the Durock scratching the tile, or crumbling a bit and that scratching the tile, but I'm going to try to sandwich it in between 2 sheets of metal (like cookie sheets or some such).

Great idea to make a durock sandwich. I have some sheet metal that should work for mine. It will protect the cement board from impact damage, its cheap, light, and fireproof. As far as scratches, I will attach a couple furniture leg-felts to the sheet metal to protect my hardwood.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Tony, do you have a shipping date yet?