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Question about Baby Bear stove pipe connection

Post in 'Fisher Stove Information, Parts, History and More' started by Mark in VA, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. Mark in VA

    Mark in VA New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2013
    Messages:
    21
    Loc:
    Central Virginia
    No worries, Dave! Thanks again for the info and reassurance! I also agree about the wealth of knowledge on the boards here. I've learned a lot since finding this site a little while back. I'm sure you're right about finding a "comfort zone" with the stove as well.

    My set up sounds almost identical to yours, as far as the pipe connection goes from the stove to the flue, with the exception of the Baby venting off the rear instead of the top. The only place I can think of where there might be an air leak would be at the thimble. The 6" pipe doesn't fit as tightly inside as it did in the old one, but the gap is very small and the mason who built the flue said it was nothing to worry about. Holding a lit cigarette near it (with the pipe in place) doesn't draw in any smoke, but before I resume burning, I believe I'll try to seal it just to be sure.

    The burning season is coming to close here soon anyway, and I'm planning on re-doing my hearth pad and wall protection along with some other home improvements in the next month or so, and since the stove will have to be moved at that time, I may not use it anymore until next fall. I am curious; however, about the flue tile "curing" thing... if anyone else has heard of that, or has more information, I'd love to hear it, and if the situation I just saw was simply a case of that, along with new pipe...

    Thanks again,
    Mark

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  2. CamFan

    CamFan Member

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2011
    Messages:
    220
    Loc:
    North East Georgia
    I have not read everything posted here but Coaly mentioned the 6" going into the larger flue tiles and heating it up can cause problems and he is right. You can help this problem considerable if you install a 6" stainless flex direct to the stove and it would go to a termination cap at the top of the chimney. Now you have reduced the chimney to a 6", it will be easier to heat, safer to run, and easier to clean. I do not know how thick the insulation is that can go around this if you want to install it but it is available to hold the heat all the way to the cap. They are called reliner kits. You do not have to modify or tear out anything you have in place to use these. You lower it down the chimney and attach it to the stove, pull out the slack and attach it to the termination plate. Like I said I have not read all the comments but I wanted to offer this as an option. Good luck and stay safe like you are doing.
  3. Mark in VA

    Mark in VA New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2013
    Messages:
    21
    Loc:
    Central Virginia
    Thanks for the reply, Camfan! I have looked into the stainless liners, as I would really like to do this for safety and efficiency, but I was told by a local contractor that in order to install the 6 inch insulated liner that they would have to mill out the clay tiles to provide room for the flex liner and wrap insulation, and wanted $2500.00 to do the job.!!!
    Since the masonry flue is practically brand new, I really didn't want to have go this route for obvious monetary reasons, but I'm strongly considering getting a second opionion/estimate...

    I'm not sure what code calls for on this, but if there is room inside the clay flue to insert a flex liner without the insulation, would that still be benificial or would I just be shooting myself in the foot performance wise, since it's an exterior chimney?? (BTW, the clay is 8x8", so I assume 7x7" I.D.)

    Mark
  4. CamFan

    CamFan Member

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2011
    Messages:
    220
    Loc:
    North East Georgia
    A 7"x7" flue tile will not pose a problem as far as draw goes. It will take longer to heat it up than a stainless chimney . I was thinking you may have a large tile like an 8x10 or larger. I do not know all the current tile sizes available now.

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