Question about fire brick replacement

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Bladecatcher

Member
Sep 20, 2013
7
I have (what I believe to be) a Napoleon 1000 EPA insert. Many of the fire bricks were cracked, so I decided to buy all new bricks and replace them this weekend.

Everything went as planned except for one possible issue. Previously, the ceiling of the fire box did not have bricks, but had some sort of light weight board (asbestos?). The manual that I was able to dig up stated that the ceiling be lined with brick, and I did exactly that.

My question is this: the light weight board only covered roughly 90% of the ceiling, leaving the front 10% open. The three courses of fire brick that I installed covers 100% of the ceiling. How does the smoke exhaust to the flue? Should I cut one course of the fire brick to allow for a 10% opening in the front?

Hopefully, this isn't too terribly vague. I do have a PDF of the manual that I can grab a screen shot of the "how does this thing work" diagram if that would help. To me, the diagram is still not 100% clear.
 
The manual that I was able to dig up stated that the ceiling be lined with brick, and I did exactly that.
you have an older manual then if it has an insulated board that is what you should replace it with. Also what firebrick were in it and what did u replace them with? If it had pumice brick and you replaced with standard it will not work as well.
 
Hmmmm, interesting. Is that insulated board called refractory board?

It had standard brick, and the replacement was also standard.
 
Usually ceramic fiber insulation board is used.
 
Hmmmm, interesting. Is that insulated board called refractory board?

It had standard brick, and the replacement was also standard.
If it had a Ceramic board baffle then you need to get one ordered. The firebricks will make the entire secondary air system sag over time.

Also, even if "standard" bricks were used, most often the manufacturer cuts them to fit.
 
I wanted to update this thread in case anyone has this question in the future.

I contacted Napoleon directly and discussed the replacement of the bricks in this model. Apparently, this model originally did have heavy weight bricks on all sides, as opposed to using the ceramic board baffle on the top. Not really sure why it was in there - all I know is that the previous owner of this house was a hack at many, many things. I believe that he was also an auction junkie, so this stove was likely purchased second hand and it may not have had any bricks at all at that point.

Now, back to my original question. The three courses of brick across the top cover 100% of the ceiling, so I need to cut one course (the front) to allow for exhaust (creating the baffle). Any suggestions on how big should that opening be? 3"? 5"?
 
I wanted to update this thread in case anyone has this question in the future.

I contacted Napoleon directly and discussed the replacement of the bricks in this model. Apparently, this model originally did have heavy weight bricks on all sides, as opposed to using the ceramic board baffle on the top. Not really sure why it was in there - all I know is that the previous owner of this house was a hack at many, many things. I believe that he was also an auction junkie, so this stove was likely purchased second hand and it may not have had any bricks at all at that point.

Now, back to my original question. The three courses of brick across the top cover 100% of the ceiling, so I need to cut one course (the front) to allow for exhaust (creating the baffle). Any suggestions on how big should that opening be? 3"? 5"?
That would have been a question for napoleon. It's engineered a certain way for efficiency, no one can say for sure. They should have given you bricks dimensions.
 
Do you have the manual? If so it should show the brick pattern and hopefully brick dimensions.
 
By this manual it shows full bricks for the baffle. Make sure they are put in with the correct sequence.
Screen Shot 2016-10-12 at 1.28.36 PM.png
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1003080/Napoleon-1000.html?page=6#manual
 
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