Question on installing a damper to improve burn time

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Jclout

Member
Oct 15, 2007
149
Southbridge, Massachusetts
I have a question about improving the burn time of my Quadrafire Millenium3100. Would installing a damper in the stove pipe help in some way? The stove operates well, but when you really need the heat you are reloading every 3-4 hours. After looking at some posts from this site it got me to thinking that maybe a damper might help. I was thinking of getting a stove with a larger fire box hoping that more wood might do the trick. I think my box may be 2 cubic ft. and takes a 16-18 inch log as compared to what I think is a larger box on an Englander from Home Depot or a U.S. Stove co. model 2000 or 2500 that would take a larger log. What do you guys think? Thanks John
 
Do you have excessive draft? Is it difficult to contol the burn? What are your stove top temps after 3 hours? That seems awful short for a 2 CF firebox...
 
You wrote that when you really need the heat you have to reload every three to four hours. Is that because you have the air setting high in order to get more heat? A flue damper does about the same thing as the primary air adjustment on the stove- it reduces the amount of air going through the stove and up the stack, so I don't think a flue damper would make much difference in burn time unless you are getting short burn times with the primary air control on its lowest setting. In that case, maybe the damper could further reduce the air flow and give longer burns, but you might also get less heat.
 
A flue damper is not intended to give longer burn times, it is simply to cut down on the amount of draft. So if you have excessive draft, then a damper is in order but methinks you'll find few of the newer stoves need a damper in the flue.

Also, always, when having some type of burning problem, look at the fuel first.
 
Thanks guys for getting back to me on this matter. I do have a hard time controlling the burn when it gets roaring. I did the dollar bill test recently on the door gasket and found that it would slip out near the handle and was tighter near the hinges so I would think that looseness has something to do with it. I do get longer burn time when the primary air and secondary burn control are turned down and more heat when they are opened more, but less time of course. I have not been checking the stove top or stack temps accurately however. I rechecked my pamphlet and it is indeed a 2 cubic ft box. Do you think my assumption of a larger box extending burn times is correct or not. Also do you have any opinions on the U.S. Stove co. models 2500 and 2000 or any of the Drolet stoves?
Thanks, John
 
John, our stove is also about 2 cu. ft. and we get excellent burn times but we also turn the draft down a lot. On a scale of 1-4 for our draft, our normal setting is about .75 and sometimes down to .5. In this warmer weather though many times we have to set it at 1.

I'd definitely get a good thermometer on the stove and flue (I like the Condar) to see what is happening. The flue temperature can tell you a lot and will let you know if too much heat is going up the chimney. If so, then perhaps a damper. But I'd fix that firebox door first. If you can't adjust it to close better then perhaps it is time for a new gasket, which is very easy to change. Good luck.
 
Most modern air-tight stoves don't need a damper and burn better without one. You run the risk of cooling the chimney too much and building up too much creosote. You don't say how tall your chimney is, but unless it's really tall you shouldn't have excessive draft. The type of wood your burning makes a big difference in the burn time. I have a LOPI Liberty that takes 24" wood, but it will only burn 3-4 hours full of Cedar bur 8-10 with Oak.
 
Stove Nut said:
I have a question about improving the burn time of my Quadrafire Millenium3100. Would installing a damper in the stove pipe help in some way? The stove operates well, but when you really need the heat you are reloading every 3-4 hours. After looking at some posts from this site it got me to thinking that maybe a damper might help. I was thinking of getting a stove with a larger fire box hoping that more wood might do the trick. I think my box may be 2 cubic ft. and takes a 16-18 inch log as compared to what I think is a larger box on an Englander from Home Depot or a U.S. Stove co. model 2000 or 2500 that would take a larger log. What do you guys think? Thanks John

Just getting a bigger stove to find out if that solves your problem without first trying to define that problem better sounds to me like a lottery approach. You might get lucky, of course. However, chances are you'll just lose your money...

A systematic approach could start with an attempted energy budget for your home. How big is the space you want to heat and what is your temperature comfort zone? What are typical outside temperatures in your area for each week or month of the year? This allows you to estimate your seasonal heating needs in terms of "degree days". Finally, how big are your heat losses (i.e. how well is your home insulated)? etc. etc.

Since reliable heat loss numbers are hard to obtain without the help of a professional, some of us might prefer a "trial and error" approach. However, rather than having a succession of different stoves installed, it would be a lot easier to borrow a handful of portable electrical heaters (preferably with built-in fans) from family/friends/neighbors in order to find out how much heat energy you actually will need to generate in order to achieve the desired result.

Most of these portable electric heaters put out 1300-1500 Watt (when running all-out; i.e. when using both elements and turning the thermostat to its maximum position). In order to verify electric energy usage it is best to have a suitable electric power meter (e.g. a "kill a watt") or take hourly electric meter box readings. If it takes 4 of these heaters (running full-bore) to make your living area comfortable, you are probably using about 5.2 kilowatt, equivalent to 16,000 BTUs per hour. A 2 cubic feet wood stove with a fill efficiency of 80%, a thermal efficiency of 50% and burning hardwood splits with an energy content of 180,000 BTU per cubic ft (stacked), should be able to take over the work of these 4 electric heaters for up to 10 hours or so.

Without knowing your home and the local temperature environment, it is impossible to say up front whether ~5 kW of electric power can perhaps do the job or not. However, if the answer is affirmative, and a 2 cubic ft wood stove (80% filled with well-seasoned hardwood splits) can only do so for 3-4 hours, instead of 10, then you probably have indeed too much heat loss up the chimney, thereby preventing your stove from reaching a decent efficiency level of, let's say, 50%. In that case, I would make sure you do have a properly installed convection fan kit for your Quadrafire Millennium 3100. This should help reduce unnecessary chimney losses (by allowing you to reduce the primary air flow setting while delivering the same amount of heat to the room).

If on the other hand, it takes 8 or more 1300-1500 W electric heaters to achieve a comfortable temperature in your living area and you are convinced that there are no fairly easy ways to reduce heat losses from the home, you could indeed conclude that a bigger stove (i.e. 4 cubic ft) will be needed to keep things comfortable while achieving 8-10 hr burns.

Henk
 
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