Questions about connecting my fireplace stove

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mj5001

Member
Oct 15, 2011
160
United States
In an effort to avoid (2) 90 degree elbows, wouldn't it better (if it can be done) -- to do as much of a straight shot as possible? I want to put my stovepipe up my fireplace chimney.

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Do they make some sort of flexible stovepipe? Or, 45 degree elbows? If I used 45's I could do pretty much a straight shot.
 
Im not an expert but I have ever seen flexing stove and I don't think it would be a good idea. I used two 45's to make it between the joists and it work out nice.
 
I am not familiar with flex pipe for wood stoves, but there may be some. I agree that if you can work two 45s with the horizontal run sloping upward, you will have much better draft. That is what I did. Your situation may not allow it if there isn't room, but check it out. You may want to go with an adjustable length of pipe to connect the two 45s. Again, I had to. My setup works great though.
 
It's my understanding that flex pipe is not meant to be exposed, that's why they call it a liner intstead of pipe. I believe that you can run hard pipe to the chimney then convert to flex. I ran flex up my chimney and my observations were that although very strong it is thin. It can easily be damaged if exposed.
 
I need a 6" tee for my stove -- guess it is mandatory that you use one? Anyway, why are they so pricey? 70 bucks and higher?

I know stainless is expensive but where are the best prices? -- thanks
 
Well, haven't really looked into it thoroughly yet -- just seems like a lot of money for something that isn't that much metal.

I DO need one right?

Buying my stove tomorrow (Drolet Eldorado) and putting in new liner and installing in front of my fireplace opening.

The old damper (I took it completely out) is about 2 1/2 or 3 feet higher that the stove outlet (pretty good I guess).

Also, because you'll possibly even see part of the tee, don't they make them in black?

Do you HAVE to get stainless?

I understand stainless for the chimney but the tee is closer to the interior.
 
Well the top of the vent would sit about halfway up the fireplace opening (it's 44" from the lentil to the floor). And of course some sort of steel plate where the damper was with a 6" opening. (Hoping I may be able to use a double thickness of cement board instead?) Sealed well of course.

Then a 90 degree with stove pipe to the tee.

Or why can't I use (2) 45 degree elbows to make it a straight shot?

What do you think?
 
You could use a Stainless Steel elbow, (not much cheeper) but you loose the ability to have a clean out at the bottom of the Tee. The Tee also gives you a 10" horizontal snout, which helps when you can't get the liner in the right place. Black Tee's are also available, but will not have the flex connector on them to connect directly to the liner, but you could adapt it with a appliance connector.
 
So do you think I'll be ok as far as draw with the lentil 44 " from floor?(and where the damper was is a good 18" or so above that). The stove itself is only 27" high -- I know, dinky, but I just want to supplement my heat and like it cool anyway.

Single, nobody to groan at me about it.
 
Also, really would like an answer from you experts -- is it ok to do the (2) 45 elbows and pipe from stove to the tee? It would look nicer -- improve draft maybe also?
 
Yes two 45's should draw better but do you need the T for cleanout?
 
You tell me -- do I even need a tee? I expect to go up on the roof every 2 years and clean the chimney. Easy to do because it's a one story ranch.
 
What stove is going in there? Two 45's might work, if there is clearance and if the stove has an easy to drop baffle, or a bypass behind the baffle. Then no tee needed.

Have you considered installing a rear-exit flue stove instead?
 
I had another question -- do i dare use my exisiting chimney cap? I just bought it new a few months ago -- it's just a conventional "rain" cap, but sturdy -- very well built.

of course, I plan on the cover for the top of the chiney as well.
 
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