Rebuilt Fireview and Chimney Draft Question (baro or not)

[Todd]

When I adjusted my bypass I asked Woodstock how tight it should be and they said it should take very little pressure to lock it into place. Both of my bypass levers almost lock themselves and I just give it a light nudge to lock it in. Did you use Woodstock gasket? There are different types of gasket, low and high density have different uses.

 

[jdonna]

Right, that is where mine is set at. I did use the Woodstock gasket. That gasket gets really compressed in there from the edge of the plate.

I think you are refering to the u-bolt, which sets the bypass handle tension and pressure on the back of the plate. On the opposite side there is the two hinges which have a bolt with a jam nut to set tension on the pivot point, that is what I wished I would have disassembled!

Woodstock is back ordered on the bypasses, musta had a run on them.

 

[KevinG]

Kevin, I noticed you rebuilt your woodstove as well. Did you happen to adjust your bypass cover?

I replaced that gasket but didn't touch the bolts. In fact, I didn't even check the seal of the bypass door. Something else to do next summer!

 

[Todd]

Ok, I thought you were talking U bolt tention. Maybe someone can take a picture of their Fireview bypass plate and bolts to give you an idea?

 

[jdonna]

Update on that bypass door hinge adjustment, the forward ones with the set bolts.

You want to center the round part of the hinge in the holder and check both corners of the bypass plate with a piece of paper. I had talked to Woodstock a month ago about it, just as a precaution since they were out of stock on the bypass doors.

 

[jdonna]

Since this post, I had cleaned the chimney about 3 weeks ago. I seen more sooty creosote than I would have liked in the stove pipe, a good 1/8" skim. Not much came out of the stack it self. You guys were spot on.

One thing I noticed was that my liner snout was partially dislodged, so I reset it and tightened it down. I am guessing that had a wild effect on draft.

I have removed the baro flap and put a block off on it. I am relying on the key damper to control those days when the draft is really cranking. Nice to have the option to use the baro though for the few nights when it is -20 and 25 mph winds. Just slip it back in the T.

Seems to run pretty nice, however I do not trust turning the stove down far enough to snuff the flame out, it will still whoof when the the burn switches to burning the back part of the load occasionally. Seems like if I have a bit of flame in the fire box, it does not happen.

Also, instead of having a probe thermometer in the hole, I have my manometer tube stuck in it, pretty sweet IMO.

Thanks all for the wisdom!