Regency CI2700 Cast Bypass Top Plate

[nemonik]

I have Regency CI2700. The chimney sweep in taking out the (19 in the pic) Bottom Shield (106-143) broke the heads off of the two short bolts that attach it to the (item 26 in the pic) Cast Bypass Top Plate (106-351) and another bolt head off a bolt holding up the Cast Bypass Top Plate.

I can drill the short bolts out of the Cast Bypass Top Plate and back off the remains of the the other bolt.

My question is what bolts is Regency using? And what would be recommend to hold up to the temperature of the stove? What is generally used?

Some of the bolts have dusting of rust on them which screams cheap but maybe this normal for a stove entering its 3rd season of use. Three bolts breaking is weird.

What should I replace the bolts with to hold up against the operating temperature of the stove?

Easy to get #8 bolts top out just shy of 500 degrees spec-wise. Inconel bolts top out at 1800 way beyond the safe running temp of the stove but I have no idea the cost of these or where to get them. I am not building a rocket.

I am told stainless would gall (i.e., Fuze with what it is mating together.)

I suppose after I figure out what bolts to use I could use high temp anti-seize on their threads.

I'd like to replace all the bolts.

Thank you. I appreciate it.

 

[bholler]

I have Regency CI2700. The chimney sweep in taking out the (19 in the pic) Bottom Shield (106-143) broke the heads off of the two short bolts that attach it to the (item 26 in the pic) Cast Bypass Top Plate (106-351) and another bolt head off a bolt holding up the Cast Bypass Top Plate.

I can drill the short bolts out of the Cast Bypass Top Plate and back off the remains of the the other bolt.

My question is what bolts is Regency using? And what would be recommend to hold up to the temperature of the stove? What is generally used?

Some of the bolts have dusting of rust on them which screams cheap but maybe this normal for a stove entering its 3rd season of use. Three bolts breaking is weird.

What should I replace the bolts with to hold up against the operating temperature of the stove?

Easy to get #8 bolts top out just shy of 500 degrees spec-wise. Inconel bolts top out at 1800 way beyond the safe running temp of the stove but I have no idea the cost of these or where to get them. I am not building a rocket.

I am told stainless would gall (i.e., Fuze with what it is mating together.)

I suppose after I figure out what bolts to use I could use high temp anti-seize on their threads.

I'd like to replace all the bolts.

Thank you. I appreciate it.

View attachment 316345

They use 1/4 20 stainless bolts. And you should use anti seize on them every year

 

[nemonik]

Thank you.

What specific grade of stainless?

I was thinking of using LOCTITE LB 8036 aka LOCTITE White High Temperature Anti-Seize. It is rated up to 2000 F.

Loctite 51605 LB 8009 Heavy Duty Anti-Seize Lubricant is rated up to 2400 F and cheaper, so probably that.

 

[nemonik]

316 bolts can withstand temperatures up to around 1,800-2,100 degrees Fahrenheit. 304 isn't a chump either handling 1,600-1,800 degrees Fahrenheit.

I suppose the anti-seize will prevent the galling?

 

[nemonik]

316 bolts can withstand temperatures up to around 1,800-2,100 degrees Fahrenheit. 304 isn't a chump either handling 1,600-1,800 degrees Fahrenheit.

I suppose the anti-seize will prevent the galling?

I also suppose considering them sacrificial and replacing every season will prevent the problem of them seizing.

 

[bholler]

Thank you.

What specific grade of stainless?

I was thinking of using LOCTITE LB 8036 aka LOCTITE White High Temperature Anti-Seize. It is rated up to 2000 F.

Loctite 51605 LB 8009 Heavy Duty Anti-Seize Lubricant is rated up to 2400 F and cheaper, so probably that.

I don't know what grade but any bolts are going to degrade in that environment eventually. No need to replace them every year just as needed