Regreasing Trailer Bearings

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

daveswoodhauler

Minister of Fire
May 20, 2008
1,847
Massachusetts
Ok, so I finally found a trailer to replace mine with the busted axle.
Its a Big Tex trailer I found of Cl for $400 smackers....not a large one, but big enough for me and my Subaru to tow.
My first project is to check out the bearings and clean/repack...and I found a video so I think I am up for the task.
Question, when I place the bearings back in the hub, and then place the nut on (the one with the cotter pin) - how tight do I want this to be on?
It looks like I would just hand tighten, and then back off a little bit....but it looks to be a judgement call...just hand tighten until there is no play in the wheel? (Don't want to mess things up.
Thanks.
 
I tighten fairly snug with a wrench while turning the wheel to make sure everything is seated, then back it off, then hand tighten to put the cotter pin in.
 
Thanks Quads.....haven't done the job before, so I just want to make sure I get it done right.
I like the idea of tightening to seat the bearings and then backing off...appreciate it.
 
When you're all done there should be only the tiniest bit of noticable play in the wheel. Like you can only barely tell that there is the tiniest bit. These are tapered roller bearings so they aren't supposed to be loose but if they're too tight then they get hot and burn. Usually the cotter pin spacing means that you will either be too tight or too loose. Always use the looser of the holes. Meaning when you try and turn by hand as quad told you, if you can't quite get to the next cotter pin hole then roll the nut CCW to the previous hole. Don't put a wrench back on and overtighten just to get the cotter pin in the next hole.
 
The big tex trailers use dexter axles, Mostly,and there is a plethera of info on these axles online. they actually have a spec for side play measured with a dial indicator, but I use Highbeams method. Save yourself some future hasle and install bearing buddies, and pick up a grease gun loaded with the same type/brand of lube used to pack the bearings. Mixing moly based/soap based/ graphite based lubes can cause them to break down and loose lubricating/shear strength.
 
Thanks Pine, Highbeam and Quads.
Just a few more ???'s

When ever you clean/regrease the bearing, I would guess that I would need to pick up a new bearing seal? (I'm guessing its rubber that goes on the inner part of the hub??
Also, to get the right size bearing buddie, it would seem that I would need to measure the diameter of the dust cap? (Maybe I can find a vid on You tube or something)
Thanks again.
 
Your right on both accounts. But if the seal isn't leaking that may just be preventative maint.

For bearing buddies you just measure the inside of the wheel where the dust cap goes. Bearing buddies are a force fit (re: hammered on). They have a slight tapper to them. When installing, it is good practice to use a block of wood again the BB and hit the wood with a hammer (or you can use a lead hammer if you have one). Don't be prissy about it either.
 
ilikewood, now that you scored a new trailer its time to update your sig! hate seeing "busted axle" everytime yoy post. Brings back bad memories. :red: embarasing one to.
 
Thanks Jags and Pine....I'll try not to be a 'sally" about it either.
Not sure if I really need the bearing buddies, as the trailer is going to be stored in a garage, and its not a boat trailer.
My plan is that I'll take the hubs apart over the weekend, and see what kind of shape they are in...probably just clean/repack, and if it seems like I am using the trailer a lot I'll probably invest in the buddies.
Yup, gotta upgrade my sig....thanks for the reminder....this is the one I got...not bad for $400 I think....in good condition...not a huge hauler by any means, and I am towing with a small vehicle....I'm thinking 1/4 cord max..mainly for dumps runs and scrounges etc...
 

Attachments

  • trailer.jpg
    trailer.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 368
I wouldn't own a trailer that didn't have bearing buddies or equivalent on it, regardless of application. It only takes one siezed bearing on the road to demonstrate why they are a GOOD thing...

The only difference I see in trailer application or frequency of use is how often you should pump them up...

Gooserider
 
Goose, From what I read on the bearing buddies, it basically makes a seal so that the grease stays in and keeps out water/debris....but even if you have bearing buddies on, woundn't you still take them out 1 to 2 times a year to inspect the bearings?
I'm kinda an idiot when it comes to these type things, but I guess my thought is that if you are going to check the bearings yearly anyway, why the need for the bearing buddies?
Again, I am thinking that they probably serve a purpose more than what I think....in my application, the trailer is going to be used like 500-750 miles a year max.
Thanks.
 
ilikewood said:
Goose, From what I read on the bearing buddies, it basically makes a seal so that the grease stays in and keeps out water/debris....but even if you have bearing buddies on, woundn't you still take them out 1 to 2 times a year to inspect the bearings?
I'm kinda an idiot when it comes to these type things, but I guess my thought is that if you are going to check the bearings yearly anyway, why the need for the bearing buddies?
Again, I am thinking that they probably serve a purpose more than what I think....in my application, the trailer is going to be used like 500-750 miles a year max.
Thanks.

The idea is that it makes a PRESSURIZED seal... With a standard dust cap setup, you pack the bearings with grease, put everything together and slap a dustcap on, then hope the bearing seal can keep the water and crud from leaking in and contaminating the bearings. Even if your bearings don't get contaminated, they still tend to push the grease out of the contact surfaces until they are eventually running on bare metal to metal. The bearing budy is basically a cylinder that replaces the dust cap, and contains a spring loaded diaphram and a grease fiting. After you pack the bearings and put everything together with the bearing buddy, you hit the buddy with a grease gun until the diaphram is mostly compressed. This fills the entire bearing chamber with grease so that there is no room for contaminants to get into the bearing chamber. The slight pressure that results at the seal will actually push any contaminants that try to get in back out. (and this is the downside, you will get some messy grease leakage from the seal) In addition the pressure keeps pushing the grease back into the bearing itself, so that it is in effect getting continuously "re-packed" as you drive down the road... Because the grease slowly works its way through the wheel, the bearings are always getting fresh grease, and really don't need to be looked at more than once every few years (in which case it's usually a case of "Yup, just like they were the last time I looked", and slap them back together again...)

Maintainance on a bearing buddy is mostly a matter of keeping an eye on the diaphram, and giving it a couple licks any time it appears to be fully extended in order to keep it filled about half way. If on a boat trailer, give it an extra hit any time you are sticking it in the water. Some people also like to give it an extra shot if making an extended highway run... As long as you do that, your bearings should last as long as the trailer without much in the way of checking.

Gooserider
 
Tighten the nut to about 15 foot pounds, spin the hub over then back the nut off and re-snug it to about 15 INCH pounds, works every time.
 
I agree with Highbeam on the bearing adjustment.

One caution on Bearing Buddies, I don't believe they're meant to be used on axles equipped with brakes. Pressurized grease might leak out the inner seal and contaminate brake shoes. I'd double-check this before using with brakes.
 
Semipro said:
I agree with Highbeam on the bearing adjustment.

One caution on Bearing Buddies, I don't believe they're meant to be used on axles equipped with brakes. Pressurized grease might leak out the inner seal and contaminate brake shoes. I'd double-check this before using with brakes.

I have a buddy that has three dump trailers, all with brakes, dual axles, etc.. Heavy duty for sure, though I don't know just what their official rating is... All 4 have what he said was factory equipment bearing buddy style caps on them... Not sure if they are the same brand, but definitely the same kind of function...

Gooserider
 
I'm with gooserider, a little preventitive goes a long way. love the bearing buddies, brakes or not. but then again I am a little over prepared when it comes to towing (now at least :smirk: ). And thats why I like bearing buddies, tandem axle trailers, and spare tires mounted on a spindle, fully loaded with fresh bearings ready to slap on should the need arise.
 
Thanks Goose for the great explanation, appreciate your help.
So, with the bearing buddies, basically everything inside the hub is filled with grease, and the constant pressure repacks the bearings over time when needed.
I have a grease gun, so I am not sure if there is an adapter for it?
I think you just sold me on putting on the buddies...picking up the trailer tomorrow, exciting to have my new wheels sort of speak.
Thanks Again.
 
ilikewood said:
I have a grease gun, so I am not sure if there is an adapter for it?

Bearing buddies come with a standard grease zerk installed.
 
Okay, a few important issues with bearing buddies on trailers.

As discussed, your trailer probably has dexter axles. The trailer looks small and probably doesn't have electric brakes. Is this true? If so then you can use bearing buddies since any grease that spooges out will not end up in your brakes but will just spin out into the rim harmlessly. I would use BBs if I had no brakes. I would NOT use them at all if you have brakes back there since you will ruin them if contaminated with grease. Just nut up and repack on a schedule.

Dexter makes a heavy duty axle, mine are 5200#s each, that use their "EZ Lube" system which isn't a BB. You remove a rubber plug on the dust cap and there is a zerc inside mounted on the spindle. You pump grease into this zerc and through special passages the old grease spooges out around the zerc you are pumping into. The EZlube system does not leave grease pressure in the hub and there are no springs or moving parts. It is just a way to purge new grease through the bearings. This is way better than using a BB with brakes but is not as good as manual repacking becuase you just never know if the bearings are getting grease.

The BBs have been known to fly off at highway speeds so be sure you have the right size and that they are set properly.
 
Highbeam said:
Okay, a few important issues with bearing buddies on trailers.

As discussed, your trailer probably has dexter axles. The trailer looks small and probably doesn't have electric brakes. Is this true? If so then you can use bearing buddies since any grease that spooges out will not end up in your brakes but will just spin out into the rim harmlessly. I would use BBs if I had no brakes. I would NOT use them at all if you have brakes back there since you will ruin them if contaminated with grease. Just nut up and repack on a schedule.

Dexter makes a heavy duty axle, mine are 5200#s each, that use their "EZ Lube" system which isn't a BB. You remove a rubber plug on the dust cap and there is a zerc inside mounted on the spindle. You pump grease into this zerc and through special passages the old grease spooges out around the zerc you are pumping into. The EZlube system does not leave grease pressure in the hub and there are no springs or moving parts. It is just a way to purge new grease through the bearings. This is way better than using a BB with brakes but is not as good as manual repacking becuase you just never know if the bearings are getting grease.

The BBs have been known to fly off at highway speeds so be sure you have the right size and that they are set properly.

Thanks for the clarification HB, that EZ Lube setup may be what is on my friend's trailers - it does have a rubber plug over a zerk in the dust cap as you describe, but I could have sworn the zerk moves out when I pump it up, just like the diaphram mounted zerks on a BB...

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
Semipro said:
I agree with Highbeam on the bearing adjustment.

One caution on Bearing Buddies, I don't believe they're meant to be used on axles equipped with brakes. Pressurized grease might leak out the inner seal and contaminate brake shoes. I'd double-check this before using with brakes.

I have a buddy that has three dump trailers, all with brakes, dual axles, etc.. Heavy duty for sure, though I don't know just what their official rating is... All 4 have what he said was factory equipment bearing buddy style caps on them... Not sure if they are the same brand, but definitely the same kind of function...

Gooserider

Don't get me wrong, I love bearing buddies and have had them on every trailer I've owned, but not on the brake axles. Which brings up another point, on many dual-axle trailers with brakes only one axle actually has brakes.

Again I agree with Highbeam, the trailer pictured doesn't likely have any brakes. That doesn't mean you can't add them if you want to. Northern Tool and many others sell kits that allow you to add brakes.

Good thread.
 
Thanks to all the help guys! I am picking it up tomorrow, and Highbeam is correct that it does not have brakes....its 4 X 8 :)
Anyway, I'll pop off the dust caps first thing and check to see what I am working with....I saw on the Big Tex website that they all have dexter axles, but mine was mfg in like 2004-2005 so I am not sure if that is the case.
Anyway, you all have been a ton of help, and now I feel more comfortable doing the job myself.
I know that I am going to have another question for you guys in a bit, but I am going to save that for later? (I want to build some sides for the trailer, but the bars are not exactly straight on the sides, and I was thinking of putting in some flexible chain link type product, versus just woods on the sides) Will post some pics and thoughts after I pick it up. (You guys must think I am a tool for being so excitied for picking up a small 4 X 8 trailer :)
 
ilikewood said:
You guys must think I am a tool for being so excitied for picking up a small 4 X 8 trailer

You might be surprised at how many of us are excited FOR you. :cheese:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.