Reline help.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

tmarkley

New Member
Jul 28, 2014
7
idaho
Hello,
New to the forum and a new homeowner. The house has a finished basement and in the "den" area is a wood stove. The stove is vented into a cinderblock chimney with a I.D. of 7"x10.5" that runs along the interior garage wall,through the attic and out. There is a clay flue in the chimney and was recently repaired and swept prior to our move in. The stove is an englader with a 6" flue. The previous owners installed it using 8" stove pipe that runs about 30" vertical then elbows into the concrete wall and into the chimney. Prior to the cleaning there was a ton of creosote build up and cracked tiles(all repaired now) but the stove still doesnt seem to draft well. Backpuffing out of the draft controls. Ive taken some measurements and this is what ive come up with.

Center of wall pass through to top of chimney- 19'4"
Center of Chimney to roof peak- 66"
Height of chimney above roof peak- 12.5" (18" including cap)
chimney size 7"i.d.x10.5" i.d. (9"x13" o.d.)
Chimney height from roof- 39 1/2"

From what i've read so far it seems the chimney is too short and too large for the appliance.

Englander recommends using a 6" chimney pipe with the stove.

Now my questions are what is the best way to go about fixing this? Can i use a S.S liner and do they make it so i can add height to the chimney?
I do not want to come home to a smoke filled house this winter.
Thank you for the help
TM
 
It is defiantly over sized and a little short. i would start by lining it and see if that fixes it you may need to add a peice of class a to the top but it might work fine at the height it is. Just wondering how they fixed the cracked tile?
 
It is defiantly over sized and a little short. i would start by lining it and see if that fixes it you may need to add a peice of class a to the top but it might work fine at the height it is. Just wondering how they fixed the cracked tile?

The last two flue tiles were cracked and the sweep replaced them. Not exactly sure the process that was used since it was in progress prior to our move in. Thanks for the help
TM
 
oh so it was just the top 2 that were cracked?
 
well that is pretty easy fix then but its still oversized
 
please note that in the summer / warmer weather the draft tends to be poorer, I would also change to a stainless liner system and change out the 8" pipe to 6" , the height of the chimney seems to be fine, generally you run into problems when the height is below 15ft, but if your location experiences down sloping winds you may need additional height.
 
please note that in the summer / warmer weather the draft tends to be poorer, I would also change to a stainless liner system and change out the 8" pipe to 6" , the height of the chimney seems to be fine, generally you run into problems when the height is below 15ft, but if your location experiences down sloping winds you may need additional height.
Thanks for the replies. Any recommendations for the liner?
 
Yeah over all height it fine but from your description you don't quite meet the 3 2 10 rule. As far as type of liner we always use heavy wall flex liner but there are very many peuple that use light wall and are happy with that. But regardless you should insulate it for safety and performance
 
Yeah over all height it fine but from your description you don't quite meet the 3 2 10 rule. As far as type of liner we always use heavy wall flex liner but there are very many peuple that use light wall and are happy with that. But regardless you should insulate it for safety and performance
Thanks for the help. I had another question about clean out. from the pass through of the wall my existing clean out is about about 4 feet below. How will that work using a liner? Remove stove pipe from thimble and clean that way?
 
Just use 2 tees and a short section of liner between them. Make sure it is sealed at the bottom either by using a cap on the tee snout or mortar in the snout and make sure the door seals tight. If it is not sealed well you will be introducing cold air into the smoke stream which will hurt draft and cause more buildup.
 
Just use 2 tees and a short section of liner between them. Make sure it is sealed at the bottom either by using a cap on the tee snout or mortar in the snout and make sure the door seals tight. If it is not sealed well you will be introducing cold air into the smoke stream which will hurt draft and cause more buildup.

On the stove pipe the size is currently 8" but i want to change it to 6" to match the appliance. On the pass through the opening is 8"x13". The stove pipe is currently just plugged into it. What is the CORRECT way to repair this for 6"?
Thanks
Trey
 
by pass through do you mean clean out? if so i would use a tee and tee snout. Pack some insulation around the snout then mortar over that. Then either put a cap on that pipe or make sure the door seals good. As far as the crock goes just bring the 6" snout out so you can hook your stove pipe to it and then pack with insulation and mortar over it the same as with the clean out.
 
by pass through do you mean clean out? if so i would use a tee and tee snout. Pack some insulation around the snout then mortar over that. Then either put a cap on that pipe or make sure the door seals good. As far as the crock goes just bring the 6" snout out so you can hook your stove pipe to it and then pack with insulation and mortar over it the same as with the clean out.


So im still trying to piece together everything i need. I am concerned that with my 7"x10" flue that a 6" liner with insulation wont fit. Any suggestions? Also the "pass through" i was talking about would be the thimble area. The hole is currently 8" and the stove pipe is stuffed into that to draft up the chimney. My questions is if using a 6" liner with tee do you just mortar in the snout of the tee to fill the 8" hole and connect the stove pipe to it?
Thanks
Trey
 
So im still trying to piece together everything i need. I am concerned that with my 7"x10" flue that a 6" liner with insulation wont fit. Any suggestions? Also the "pass through" i was talking about would be the thimble area. The hole is currently 8" and the stove pipe is stuffed into that to draft up the chimney. My questions is if using a 6" liner with tee do you just mortar in the snout of the tee to fill the 8" hole and connect the stove pipe to it?
Thanks
Trey
Well yes you need to make sure your tee snout will extend past the wall on the inside of the thimble if not you need to get a piece of stainless pipe to rivet on to the stout to extend it. Then mortar around the snout and connect your pipe. As far as it fitting in your liner it will not with the insulation wrap. I would break out the liners but as i have said on other threads it is not really a diy job. The other option is an ovalized liner that should either be done professionally with an ovalizer and not smashed with a board like i have seen many times. If you just smash it it will be uneven and that will make it difficult to clean it could also kink in spots which can damage the liner
 
Status
Not open for further replies.