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Ryobi won't retract

Post in 'The Gear' started by crooked beat, Apr 22, 2012.

  1. crooked beat

    crooked beat Member

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    My Ryobi splitter splits wood just fine. I have replaced a capacitor a few years ago and it continues to split wood.

    But today, just as I was almost finished my wood pile, it stopped retracting. It splits, but will not retract unless I push it all the way back.

    Is there some kind of internal spring?

    I have a parts diagram and can't find anything that deals with the retraction.

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  2. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Retract spring is most likely inside the cylinder itself. Outside of a "creative" repair, I'd say replace the whole unit.
  3. crooked beat

    crooked beat Member

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    Thanks for your thoughts.

    The internal spring is my thinking as well. I will try and take it apart and see what it looks like and access.

    It really is a good splitter. I will regret having to junk it.
  4. PLAYS WITH FIRE

    PLAYS WITH FIRE Minister of Fire

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  5. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Plays with fire,

    You've posted diagrams for a double acting cylinder like what you'd find on a gas powered machine. I'm pretty sure all of these small electrics are single-acting cylinders that have a spring on one side of the piston to retract the ram whenever the user lets go of the switch.

    The parts breakdown for the homelite unit suggests that internal parts for the cylinder are not even available as they do not break it down further than a "main body assembly" which I'm sure costs more than the entire unit did new.
  6. PLAYS WITH FIRE

    PLAYS WITH FIRE Minister of Fire

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    I'm not saying there is a way to fix but this is the internals of the ryobi and my homelite. My buddies ryobi is identicle to my homelite. I am also pointing out that there is not a spring for the retraction.


    quote="MasterMech, post: 1112410, member: 18173"]Plays with fire,

    You've posted diagrams for a double acting cylinder like what you'd find on a gas powered machine. I'm pretty sure all of these small electrics are single-acting cylinders that have a spring on one side of the piston to retract the ram whenever the user lets go of the switch.

    The parts breakdown for the homelite unit suggests that internal parts for the cylinder are not even available as they do not break it down further than a "main body assembly" which I'm sure costs more than the entire unit did new.[/quote]
  7. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    The spring is internal, inside that main body assembly. It wouldn't be listed as a part because that whole assembly is "non-serviceable".

    Tell me, if there is no power to the pump, how does the cylinder retract without a spring? That diagram of a cylinder you posted has nothing to do with these units.
  8. PLAYS WITH FIRE

    PLAYS WITH FIRE Minister of Fire

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    Ahhhh, I see! I didn't see it on the diagram so I thought there was something else going on but if it is internal and non-service able then you would not see it. That's why I was a little confused..
  9. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    MasterMech likes this.
  10. crooked beat

    crooked beat Member

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    Thanks for your comments. I will attempt a breakdown. I am curious.

    The Homelite pdf is a much more detailed than my Ryobi pdf ( RY49701_588_r.pdf is the file name I have) from a few years ago. But both pdfs don't show any spring and I guess it is non serviceable.

    So, if my splitter was working fine: I could split a piece of wood, immediately turn power off and it should retract due to the internal spring?
  11. crooked beat

    crooked beat Member

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    ScotO likes this.
  12. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    Look at your control valve, there should be a spring and a detent inside that valve (where you control the cylinder), not the cylinder itself. It could be as MM said, a spring inside the ram, but I would start at the control side of it and see if you can find it there.
    MasterMech likes this.
  13. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Yeah I didn't even think about the valve assy. The OP did mention that he can push the ram back which he wouldn't be able to do if the return oil path was blocked but it's still worth a look.
  14. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz Minister of Fire

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    I know this is obvious, but you have been unscrewing the wing nut while using right? And screwing it back in when transporting/ storing?
  15. crooked beat

    crooked beat Member

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    Yes, I have always done the 2.5 to 3 turns on the wing nut bleed screw.
  16. velvetfoot

    velvetfoot Minister of Fire

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    Hi. I can't help you, but I thought I'd take a look at the slow oil leak in the back of my somewhat lightly used electric Harbor Freight unit.
    I tightened up a couple of the pipe fittings, then tried to figure out where the oil fill hole was.
    It turned out it's in the front, and it has a dipstick, the the level was right on, so I guess I didn't lose that much!
    It seems like a nice machine.

    I can't imagine the spring actually wouldn't work anymore. The rails aren't gunked up or anything? The nuts on the end of the retaining rods were loose-not sure if that could be a factor.
    I took apart what is supposed to be an air inlet, but to me it sure doesn't look like any air is getting in there!
  17. crooked beat

    crooked beat Member

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    I have checked the dipstick - level is fine. I plan to do a total teardown next week.
  18. crooked beat

    crooked beat Member

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    Update:

    With a bit of a teardown, I got the splitter to slowly retract with the lever pushed down about 75% of the time. And about 25 % fast normal retract with the lever up (as it should for safety). Here is a quirk I noticed: Sometimes, If I take my finger off the button, sometimes the ram continues for about 1/2 inch and then the normal fast retraction happens if I release the lever. Other wise I have to keep the lever down (finger off button) and the retraction occurs slowly.

    Looks like the issue is just dirt. I have not determined if a spring is internal yet.
    milleo likes this.

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