Santa Fe Comb Blower Test?

[reallyte]

Is there any way to test that a blower is running at the correct rpms with a multimeter?

Here the rundown. Bird dive bombed my comb blower end of last season. removed it with no issues. with the cold snap this winter running high almost 24/7. was fine for while until recently it has been requiring cleaning 2 to 3 times a day because burnpot fills up. feed gate closed all the way and pellets are good. i hav thoroughly cleaned everything but i am not seeing the vigorous spiraling flame which makes me belive its an air problem.

This is why I am led to believe my blower was damaged by the bird but it runs and doesn't make any odd noises. I am wondering if there is a diagnostic I can do to ensure the fan is running at factory spec

 

[Bioburner]

When was the last time you checked the door gaskets?

 

[Don2222]

Definitely an air flow problem. A small motor tachometer would do the trick. Does it say 3,000 rpm on the motor tag? It is usually 85 CFM also.

 

[reallyte]

When was the last time you checked the door gaskets?

Did dollar bill test on door gasket and it's snug. I'll check the motor spec when I get home tonight. It is the newer spec Santa fe if that helps.

 

[Don2222]

Did dollar bill test on door gasket and it's snug. I'll check the motor spec when I get home tonight. It is the newer spec Santa fe if that helps.

This Tach should do the trick.
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/supco/enviro-meters/em30.htm

Tach Owner's Manual
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/supco/pdfs/em30_manual.pdf

Range100 rpm to 30000 rpm / 1.7 rps to 500 rps
Resolution0.1 rpm for 100 rpm to 999.9 rpm
1 rpm for 1000 rpm to 30000 rpm
0.1 rps for 1.7rps to 100rps
1 rps for 100 rps to 500 rps
Accuracy±0.1% reading for 100.0 rpm to 9,999 rpm
±0.02% reading for 10,000 rpm to 30,000 rpm
Auto power off2 min.(app.)
Battery1.5V AAA x 3 (included)
Weight6.3 oz (180g)
Dimensions4.7” X 2.4” X 1.2” (121mm X 60mm X 30mm)

EM30Supco EM30 Tachometer. Analyze and solve motor rotation problems $58.32

Click pic below to Enlarge:

 

[reallyte]

This Tach should do the trick.
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/supco/enviro-meters/em30.htm

Tach Owner's Manual
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/supco/pdfs/em30_manual.pdf

Range100 rpm to 30000 rpm / 1.7 rps to 500 rps
Resolution0.1 rpm for 100 rpm to 999.9 rpm
1 rpm for 1000 rpm to 30000 rpm
0.1 rps for 1.7rps to 100rps
1 rps for 100 rps to 500 rps
Accuracy±0.1% reading for 100.0 rpm to 9,999 rpm
±0.02% reading for 10,000 rpm to 30,000 rpm
Auto power off2 min.(app.)
Battery1.5V AAA x 3 (included)
Weight6.3 oz (180g)
Dimensions4.7” X 2.4” X 1.2” (121mm X 60mm X 30mm)

EM30Supco EM30 Tachometer. Analyze and solve motor rotation problems $58.32

Click pic below to Enlarge:

There is a 30$ one at harbor freight I may try. Reason I want to test is just in case dealer techs can't resolve the issue. I also conveniently broke my clean out T cap amongst my frequent cleaning trying to troubleshoot this. Bdm pellet pipe is hard to find local. Good fun...thanx.

 

[Don2222]

There is a 30$ one at harbor freight I may try. Reason I want to test is just in case dealer techs can't resolve the issue. I also conveniently broke my clean out T cap amongst my frequent cleaning trying to troubleshoot this. Bdm pellet pipe is hard to find local. Good fun...thanx.

I like this one at harbor freight on sale for $32.99 with surface speed feature for lathes!
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-contact-tachometer-66400.html

Use this digital contact tachometer to take accurate RPM measurements without wiring. The five-digit LCD display is large and easy to read. Use the surface speed reading feature (in feet/minute or meters/minute) for lathe work or other applications. The tachometer has an RPM range of 2.5 to 19,999, and readings are accurate to to +/-0.05 plus 1 RPM. The tachometer comes in a closable, padded case and runs on four AA batteries or an AC adapter.

• RPM range: 2.5 - 19,999
• Memory mode with Min, Max, and Last value displays
• Accurate to +/-0.05 plus 1 RPM
• Surface speed reading in feet/minute or meters/minute
• Runs on four AA batteries or an AC adapter (sold separately)

Runs on four AA batteries or an AC adapter (sold separately).

Accessories IncludedCone, funnel, and speed adapter and padded case

Click on pic below to Enlarge

 

[Lake Girl]

BDM clean-out tee... great venting but expensive! I have to get a hold of some too so we can install the twin and have not seen it around here but haven't really looked...
http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/440399/products/Bio-Vent-Pellet-Pipe-Tee.html?d_id=50465

 

[reallyte]

Yeah it was what my dealer had so I went with it. The bdm pipe is very good but the cap gets stuck on too well and I pulled the bolt on the end straight through the caps sheet metal. I can never seem to fix something without breaking something else!

The tachometer test will hav to wait a few days. Until then back to oil heat at 62f

 

[Lake Girl]

Since we don't have a clean - out (short horizontal), can you remove the bolt and beef up the area around it so it doesn't happen again?

 

[Lake Girl]

Can buy that cap separately ... http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/440400/products/Bio-Vent-Pellet-Pipe-End-Cap.html?d_id=50465

 

[tjnamtiw]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYXK9&P=7
We use these with model airplane engines to test the needle valve setting. Just like all non-contact tachs, paint two opposite blades on the fan white (a propeller has two blades) and point the meter at the fan to get the speed. $25 plus shipping. This qualifies for $1.99 shipping.

 

[reallyte]

Since we don't have a clean - out (short horizontal), can you remove the bolt and beef up the area around it so it doesn't happen again?

Ya I may be able to repair it with some washers n high temp silicone.

While the tach may work I am thinking a volt or ohm test while running on high may suffice. Dealer said this is how quad techs do it but was unsure of accepted values. He said if I had what my values are he could inquire. Ultimately I'm trying to be definite that it's the motor before having a tech come out. Only problem is I'm a bit rusty on my electrical theory. Anyone know what where to test by any chance?

 

[tjnamtiw]

When motors are usually tested with an ohmmeter, it's done by checking resistance to ground using what's called a 'meger' or megohm meter. The readings are taken periodically over time to see if the resistance to ground of the windings is deteriorating. I think you're wasting your time, to be honest, and what ever results you get will be questionable. Just IMHO, of course. If you're worried about the motor, replace it and put the original on the shelf after replacing the bearings as a 'short-time' spare.

 

[reallyte]

When motors are usually tested with an ohmmeter, it's done by checking resistance to ground using what's called a 'meger' or megohm meter. The readings are taken periodically over time to see if the resistance to ground of the windings is deteriorating. I think you're wasting your time, to be honest, and what ever results you get will be questionable. Just IMHO, of course. If you're worried about the motor, replace it and put the original on the shelf after replacing the bearings as a 'short-time' spare.

I'm under warranty just want ammunition in my defense if it's defective.

 

[tjnamtiw]

Reading your initial post, you said you removed the blower. Were the blades OK and did it turn without the blades wobbling? If you have a lazy flame, then, as you probably know from reading all the posts, that it's an indication of poor flow, which is your main concern. Your only way of knowing for sure if it's the motor IS to check the RPM, but without any telltale noises, that seems unlikely. When you cleaned your chimney last spring, did you also clean the vent cap with the fine mesh? (if you have one)
I'd be looking elsewhere if I still had that lazy flame and constant cleaning. How do you vent your stove? An explanation of the setup or a picture would be helpful. Have you had your installer/sales out to look at it, if it's under warranty?

 

[reallyte]

Reading your initial post, you said you removed the blower. Were the blades OK and did it turn without the blades wobbling? If you have a lazy flame, then, as you probably know from reading all the posts, that it's an indication of poor flow, which is your main concern. Your only way of knowing for sure if it's the motor IS to check the RPM, but without any telltale noises, that seems unlikely. When you cleaned your chimney last spring, did you also clean the vent cap with the fine mesh? (if you have one)
I'd be looking elsewhere if I still had that lazy flame and constant cleaning. How do you vent your stove? An explanation of the setup or a picture would be helpful. Have you had your installer/sales out to look at it, if it's under warranty?

No wobbly or odd shaped blades. 1/4" mesh is clear. Pics below of setup. Saving call to dealer as last resort.

 

[Mt Bob]

how long since removing block off plates inside firebox and cleaning? I suspect dirty stove.

 

[reallyte]

how long since removing block off plates inside firebox and cleaning? I suspect dirty stove.

I do those regularly. Stove is clean top to bottom. Still awaiting cap to dry before I can test again. Ill try getting video.

 

[tjnamtiw]

All 8 of the small holes at the bottom of the burn pot are open? Take out the ash pan and look at the dump valve. Is it hanging down at all with a gap between the pot and the valve? Some people have had the burn pot loose. Is this possible? Do you see the ash being blown away from around the burnpot where the air might be leaking?
I know our stoves leak air to the point where an OAK is almost meaningless but is it possible that a critter has crawled up in the OAK and made a nest? Does the flame get better if you pull the ash pan part way out?
When you had the combustion blower out, did you remove the fan blades? Could they be slipping on the motor shaft?
I know I'm reaching WAY out there but if you swear the stove is clean, then there aren't a lot of other possibilities.

If all else fails, as a last resort tell your dealer you will buy a new combustion blower from him. If it improves the flame, then it proves the original fan was faulty and he should pay for it. If it doesn't improve the flame, then you have a spare and the problem is his to find.

 

[reallyte]

Well occams razor struck today. I cleaned absolutely everything except the spark arrestor on the cap. I swear I cleaned when I did my sweep with the lint eater. Guess not. It was encrusted so much that therewas no gaps. My neurosis of jjumping to worst conclusion got me here. Quad burning amazing again. Thank you everyone for putting up with me lol. Well at least I am far too familiar with cleaning everything now...

 

[Mt Bob]

Stay warm!Your dilligence paid off!

 

[tjnamtiw]

After an experience like this, EVERYONE is smarter so take it to the bank and file it under EXPERIENCE. Glad to see you're running and staying warm. Now you can get ready for the next snow!

 

[reallyte]

I got more than a foot today. So glad it's running hot again. Experience pays for sure.