I've had the stove for less than 2 weeks it was installed by the dealer, when set above setting (1), the auger is overfilling/overflowing the pot. On one occasion set at setting (3) it dumped a great deal of Pellets into the ash pan, the pellets ignited in the ash pan, the house filled with smoke. The dealer I bought it from has no answers. Needless to say (1) keeps my house about 57 degrees.... Regretting I bought the stove right now! Any input would appreciated.
Saranac FS Auger feeding way to fast
- Thread starter PhatT
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Doocrew
Feeling the Heat
Doocrew
Feeling the Heat
Not sure if you have the manual or not, but it is available in pdf format at http://www.hudsonriverstoves.com/pdf/saranac.pdf
Is the auger light cycling on and off?
Setting 1 should be on 4 seconds, off 12 seconds
Setting 2 should be on 6 seconds, off 10 seconds
Setting 3 should be on 9 seconds, off 9 seconds
Setting 4 should be on 10 seconds, off 6 seconds
Setting 5 should be on 12 seconds, off 4 seconds
Is the auger light cycling on and off?
Setting 1 should be on 4 seconds, off 12 seconds
Setting 2 should be on 6 seconds, off 10 seconds
Setting 3 should be on 9 seconds, off 9 seconds
Setting 4 should be on 10 seconds, off 6 seconds
Setting 5 should be on 12 seconds, off 4 seconds
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
"On one occasion set at setting (3) it dumped a great deal of Pellets into the ash pan, the pellets ignited in the ash pan, the house filled with smoke. "
That auger is turned on or off according to a timing chart that is in the operating and installation manual.
Have you timed the auger?
That auger is turned on or off according to a timing chart that is in the operating and installation manual.
Have you timed the auger?
Thanks for info, owners manual that came with it did not include that info.
I did time the auger, below (3) it is timed, above (3) its all over the place
I did time the auger, below (3) it is timed, above (3) its all over the place
sammypoodle
New Member
Try calling Hudson River. There tech support is pretty decent.
Hudson River Stove Works, Inc.
Address 1871 Route 9H
Tel * Hudson, New York 12534
Email * Tel: (518) 828-6363
Comments * Fax: (518) 828-5639
Hudson River Stove Works, Inc.
Address 1871 Route 9H
Tel * Hudson, New York 12534
Email * Tel: (518) 828-6363
Comments * Fax: (518) 828-5639
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
I do however wonder how the smoke got in the house.
Sounds like an air leak or no natural draft with inside air being used (no outside air kit).
Sounds like an air leak or no natural draft with inside air being used (no outside air kit).
lass442
New Member
SmokeyTheBear said:
Wondered the same thing, myself. Convection fan is supposed to create a vacuum. I imagine there must either be a leak, or maybe the stove was shut down incorrectly, perhaps by unplugging vs on/off button?
We're on stove # 2 because stove #1 had a feed rate/ control board issue. Ours was feeding too few pellets. Our Western Ma. dealer has addressed every question immediately. In fact, we had stove # 1 for less than a week, the dealer had a replacement installed for us within DAYS! I'm SO glad we have an awesome dealer! Hudson River tech support has been very responsive, as well. We're pretty confident that any stove related issues will be resolved as they arise.
lass442
New Member
"On one occasion set at setting (3) it dumped a great deal of Pellets into the ash pan, the pellets ignited in the ash pan, the house filled with smoke. The dealer I bought it from has no answers. Needless to say (1) keeps my house about 57 degrees.... Regretting I bought the stove right now! Any input would appreciated."
Did your dealer ask you if you ash pan was clipped in?
Did your dealer ask you if you ash pan was clipped in?
sammypoodle
New Member
Lass442, Does your stove make a very faint "ticking" noise and slight vibration? Mine has one intermittently and how about the auger, mine is mostly quiet but every couple of minutes it seems to make noise like crushing pellets. Not sure if I need to investigate more or its all normal.
lass442
New Member
Yes, sammy, I know the exact ticking sound, and it's not the pellet 'plink'plink'. I think it's related to intake & temp change somehow. As far as the auger, ours doesn't sound like it's crushing pellets, but I do hear the motor. I reduced the vibration, as I explained to you in a different thread, by loosening the screws on the rear access panel. I have my husband bringing home some steel washers with a rubber gasket so I can hand-tighten those screws. I don't want them vibrating loose. Also, that rear access panel does not heat up, so the rubber should work.
I know yours is an insert, so accessing the rear of the stove will be a bit different for you. I guess I would suggest you let the hopper run down to empty and try to time this with your cleaning date. Do a good vac and vacuum the hopper and clean the auger shaft. You might have fines around the base of the shaft making it grind a bit. Also, I don't know how your setup is, whether or not you can into the hopper with a screwdriver, but there is a cover over the shaft that can be unscrewed and partially lifted. (Be careful not to break the caulk seal at the top.) I'd look in there to be sure the auger is clear, look for points of wear or contact to be sure the auger isn't touching anything is shouldn't in there.
One more place you might be hearing the vibration from is the shield that protects the motor. It's probably in the center of the rear of the stove. I should look up your setup online so I can see where it is before I make suggestions!
Of course, all of our ticks and vibrations will be amplified now that we're comparing!
I know yours is an insert, so accessing the rear of the stove will be a bit different for you. I guess I would suggest you let the hopper run down to empty and try to time this with your cleaning date. Do a good vac and vacuum the hopper and clean the auger shaft. You might have fines around the base of the shaft making it grind a bit. Also, I don't know how your setup is, whether or not you can into the hopper with a screwdriver, but there is a cover over the shaft that can be unscrewed and partially lifted. (Be careful not to break the caulk seal at the top.) I'd look in there to be sure the auger is clear, look for points of wear or contact to be sure the auger isn't touching anything is shouldn't in there.
One more place you might be hearing the vibration from is the shield that protects the motor. It's probably in the center of the rear of the stove. I should look up your setup online so I can see where it is before I make suggestions!
Of course, all of our ticks and vibrations will be amplified now that we're comparing!
lass442
New Member
OK, sammy, I looked at the manual and both stoves are identical except for a few things. The rear panel is the same on both insert and FS. SO, if you take a look at p. 6 of your manual, or click on the link on doocrew's message (same page in the pdf) see the figure @ the bottom showing the rear of the stove. The plate that surrounds the intake and exhaust has vertical vents in it and just above those vents is the auger motor cover held on with 2 screws. I did not loosen these two screws, but I did loosen the 2 bottom corner screws because this access panel butts directly up to the edge of bottom molding. When the auger motor turns on, the access panel vibrates against that bottom piece, and in your case where you've got the acoustics of an empty fireplace surrounded by cast aluminum, the reverb must be mighty loud.
I'd like to get my hands on some of the fiber they used between the fan mountings and run a strip of that all the around the edge of the access panel. That would probably silence the situation altogether. But for now, I'll use the rubber lined washers as spacers, hopefully eliminating any contact between the two metal pieces.
It's stove design on-the-go!
I'd like to get my hands on some of the fiber they used between the fan mountings and run a strip of that all the around the edge of the access panel. That would probably silence the situation altogether. But for now, I'll use the rubber lined washers as spacers, hopefully eliminating any contact between the two metal pieces.
It's stove design on-the-go!
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
The crunching sound is indeed the auger (attempting to break) breaking a pellet normally at the top of the auger shaft.
You should also note that the auger motor isn't held ridgedly in place so it can chatter when it starts up and again when it shuts down.
You should also note that the auger motor isn't held ridgedly in place so it can chatter when it starts up and again when it shuts down.
Met with Hudson River rep and dealer today, they gave me their new prototype pot, seems to be working much better. The ash pan clip was lose allowing the smoke out, simple bend and it was fixed
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
PhatT,
If it is possible, would you please post a couple of pictures of the new pot.
I have also inquired about the new pot through my dealer today and also about a combustion blower bearing seal issue. I found what appears to be lubricating fluid had dropped onto the frame under the combustion blower, I know that the blower bearings get warmer as the stove is placed into higher temperature modes and that hot bearings tend to slow a blower down. This could cause all kinds of bad burn events such as burn pot overflow and massive sintering (clinker formation).
If it is possible, would you please post a couple of pictures of the new pot.
I have also inquired about the new pot through my dealer today and also about a combustion blower bearing seal issue. I found what appears to be lubricating fluid had dropped onto the frame under the combustion blower, I know that the blower bearings get warmer as the stove is placed into higher temperature modes and that hot bearings tend to slow a blower down. This could cause all kinds of bad burn events such as burn pot overflow and massive sintering (clinker formation).
sammypoodle
New Member
I am in the process of using fiberglass to help insulate the surround piece of the insert. I am sure the echo of the empty fireplace adds to the sound. It does not get very hot and if you use only fiberglass insulation(no paper backing) there should be no fire hazard. fiberglass insulation will melt if it gets too hot but will not combust. but the surround only gets warm. Do we all need to get a "prototype pot" is that one better? Great advise. Thanks!
lass442
New Member
We haven't gotten ours... they are in the design/production stage right now. Advise from Steve @ tech support was to block the upper row of holes to improve air flow in the pot. I don't have the proper materials for this, not do I have a welder. Besides, I don't want to permanently plug up holes and then have it be worse. I'll just wait for the new pot and keep cleaning the stove every other day. It's new, the honeymoon's not over yet! LOL
BTW, my husband got this great little car vac. It's a 2HP Armor-All shop vac and you should see all the little tiny attachments it has! I can clean every little nook and cranny... even halfway up the shoot! I love it and it makes cleaning the stove kinda fun. He picked that up at Costco for under $40.00. Thought I'd share that with ya, too!
BTW, my husband got this great little car vac. It's a 2HP Armor-All shop vac and you should see all the little tiny attachments it has! I can clean every little nook and cranny... even halfway up the shoot! I love it and it makes cleaning the stove kinda fun. He picked that up at Costco for under $40.00. Thought I'd share that with ya, too!
lass442
New Member
"Met with Hudson River rep and dealer today, they gave me their new prototype pot, seems to be working much better."
I hope we get ours soon. DH is going to have 'burn-pot-envy' when I tell him PhatT got his and we don't have ours yet! lol Bet he'll be on the phone w/ our dealer in a heartbeat!
Phat... if there's any possible way you post pics of the prototype, I could get an idea of which holes need to be closed up. thx in advance.
I hope we get ours soon. DH is going to have 'burn-pot-envy' when I tell him PhatT got his and we don't have ours yet! lol Bet he'll be on the phone w/ our dealer in a heartbeat!
Phat... if there's any possible way you post pics of the prototype, I could get an idea of which holes need to be closed up. thx in advance.
I will post next time I clean it, they left only 1 hole front and rear center, the rest are unpunched.
Didn't help with my problem, after several hours it began overflowing again.... Thought it was the pellets, tried 3 brands same problem...
Didn't help with my problem, after several hours it began overflowing again.... Thought it was the pellets, tried 3 brands same problem...
sammypoodle
New Member
Sounds like a control board problem.... Well I think I finally worked out most of the quirks with this stove. I start to clean my pellets and get rid of the small fines and extremely small pellets. The auger now is almost silent. I almost never hear a pellet get crushed anymore. I think the fines and extremely small fragment pellets cant make the travel up the auger like the bigger ones. Nice to quiet that down. My only outstanding issue is when the fan is on high, there seems to be an unerlying hum along with the normal fan sound. Maybe thats normal. do your do that humming noise? I would like to solve that one. The fan seems to be vibrating/humming. did the rubber washers help?
lass442
New Member
Sammy, I'll be installing those later today when I do a cleaning. Right now there is no vibration coming from the rear access panel because the screws are still loosened. I do hear the humming sound, and I think it's the combustion fan running in synch with the blower fan. Right now I've got the stove on level 2 with the fan on high.
Now, keep in mind that Hudson River made some revisions in some of this model's features. For example, the first stove we had installed (SN 1277) had a different control board than our current one (SN 1813). This one gives the option to adjust fan speed on any heat level. So we can burn on level 3 with the fan on low, or burn on level 1 with the fan on high. #1277 had a different auger motor than 1813; I can't give you details on either because I didn't look that closely at the time, just noticed a difference. Also the top trim panels, hopper door and hopper design are different. 1813 has less of a slope than 1277. 1277 hopper was galvanized sheet metal and 1813 has a blackish finish that looks like graphite, and is just a little bit smaller than 1277. 1277 did not have vent slats in top panel, 1813 does. 1277 hopper door was slightly larger with no plastic finger hold, 1813 has plastic insert in finger hold. Top panel on 1813 is one continuos piece where 1277 had two top panels, separation right near hopper door. In other words, looking at the bevel as it surrounds the top, there is no break in 1813, where there was a break on 1277.
I think it would be interesting to compare SN's and design rev's. You can find your SN in the upper right corner on the right hand side door.
Out of all the rev's i noticed, I like every new feature except the hopper design. The galvanized steel on the 1277 seemed to have a steeper slope, and was slicker, facilitating pellets to slip right down to the bottom. This graphite finish encourages the pellets to cling, which isn't a problem if the hopper is always full. I just happen not to like it.
Now, keep in mind that Hudson River made some revisions in some of this model's features. For example, the first stove we had installed (SN 1277) had a different control board than our current one (SN 1813). This one gives the option to adjust fan speed on any heat level. So we can burn on level 3 with the fan on low, or burn on level 1 with the fan on high. #1277 had a different auger motor than 1813; I can't give you details on either because I didn't look that closely at the time, just noticed a difference. Also the top trim panels, hopper door and hopper design are different. 1813 has less of a slope than 1277. 1277 hopper was galvanized sheet metal and 1813 has a blackish finish that looks like graphite, and is just a little bit smaller than 1277. 1277 did not have vent slats in top panel, 1813 does. 1277 hopper door was slightly larger with no plastic finger hold, 1813 has plastic insert in finger hold. Top panel on 1813 is one continuos piece where 1277 had two top panels, separation right near hopper door. In other words, looking at the bevel as it surrounds the top, there is no break in 1813, where there was a break on 1277.
I think it would be interesting to compare SN's and design rev's. You can find your SN in the upper right corner on the right hand side door.
Out of all the rev's i noticed, I like every new feature except the hopper design. The galvanized steel on the 1277 seemed to have a steeper slope, and was slicker, facilitating pellets to slip right down to the bottom. This graphite finish encourages the pellets to cling, which isn't a problem if the hopper is always full. I just happen not to like it.
sammypoodle
New Member
any chance you can post a picture of the control board (front) and hopper? So I can compare? If you cant post a picture can you email it to me ([email protected]). I would really like to see what i have. Thx.
lass442
New Member
Sammy, I took lots of pics today while I cleaned. I'll try to post the burn pot pics here, since they are of relevance to the general conversation, and I will email the rest of them to you before the end of the weekend.
Did you look for your Serial Number? I want to clarify that numbers I gave in the earlier post represented two different serial numbers, not revision numbers. As much as I'd love to get revision #'s, I don't have them. (Don't know if I'd dare ask for them, either)
Did you look for your Serial Number? I want to clarify that numbers I gave in the earlier post represented two different serial numbers, not revision numbers. As much as I'd love to get revision #'s, I don't have them. (Don't know if I'd dare ask for them, either)
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