Saw cutting in a curve...

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Slow1

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Nov 26, 2008
2,677
Eastern MA
I finally got a chance to really do some cutting with my new (used) 028. So, I attacked a nice big log and it dug right in which was nice, but it didn't take long to notice that instead of a good straight cut down, it was wanting to curve to the right as it was cutting. This was enough so that the top of the bar was eventually cutting wood as well as it continued down and the deeper I went the worse it seemed to be.

I tried using the sharpener that came with the saw (mounts on to the bar and holds file 'right' so it says) and sharpened all the teeth as best as I could - not really knowing for certain what is good as I'm all new to this. Anyway, after that it cut faster, but still put the same curve in there.

On the bright side, it didn't bog down or quit on me (until I ran out of gas), but I have some rounds now that will be seriously difficult to stand up and split :)

Thoughts? Just get a new chain to start with (I figured I would need to replace the one that came with this used saw, but wanted to try it anyway) - could it be something more than the chain?
 
slow1 ,

ihave had the same exact issue with my saw and will watch this thread, so that i will once again learn something. i am capable of filing the chain to get it to cut good, but always get this "kerf".

mike
 
Forget about filing the chain. File the bar! One rail is higher than the other.
 
Slow1 said:
I finally got a chance to really do some cutting with my new (used) 028. So, I attacked a nice big log and it dug right in which was nice, but it didn't take long to notice that instead of a good straight cut down, it was wanting to curve to the right as it was cutting. This was enough so that the top of the bar was eventually cutting wood as well as it continued down and the deeper I went the worse it seemed to be.

I tried using the sharpener that came with the saw (mounts on to the bar and holds file 'right' so it says) and sharpened all the teeth as best as I could - not really knowing for certain what is good as I'm all new to this. Anyway, after that it cut faster, but still put the same curve in there.

On the bright side, it didn't bog down or quit on me (until I ran out of gas), but I have some rounds now that will be seriously difficult to stand up and split :)

Thoughts? Just get a new chain to start with (I figured I would need to replace the one that came with this used saw, but wanted to try it anyway) - could it be something more than the chain?

G'day Slow1 :)

There are a few reasons why you could be cutting curves. As mentioned above, it could be the bar (one side or rail higher - solution, dress the bar (file it level)) or some teeth facing one side of the chain could be blunt / damaged causing it to pull more one way than the other. I had a situation similar a while ago and have a long detailed thread about it here, which might help you as well - there are a few pointers given in the thread, which turned out to be wrong for me but might help you.

In my case I had been sold a slightly different chain (0.058") to the bar specification (0.050") and so was sitting a little high in the groove and twisting a bit during cutting, hence creating a curve.

My suggestion would be to dress the bar - remove, ensure it is flat when laid flat on a smooth level surface, then file the rail(s) down so they are perfectly level across the groove. Put it back on the saw flipped from the way it is now. Then check your chain carefully, ensuring all teeth are in good order, give them a sharpen or get it sharpened, or if stuffed, get a new chain. Having done that I reckon the saw will cut straight, but if not, we've eliminated most of the possible issues. Good luck.
 
Or perhaps you hit a rock on one side of the bar and dulled out the teeth on that one side. Ask me how I know.
 
If the saw cuts down and curves to the right then the teeth on the right side of the chain are sharper...guessing you might be left handed. The solution is to take 1 or 2 swipes off the chains left side cutting teeth. Couple of weeks ago I noticed a guy sharpening loose teeth ...they moved every time he drew a file along a tooth. Make sure your chain it tight before hand sharpening.

Also get in the habit of flipping the bar after every time you sharpen. Always a good idea to flat file any burrs that lay over the edge of the bar.
 
I'm more apt to agree on the idea of one set of teeth are sharper, or sharpened at a little different angle.

If you can put saw in a vise when sharpening it. Put yourself in the same position , leaning over the saw per side. The "angle of the dangle" can make a big difference.
 
flyingcow said:
I'm more apt to agree on the idea of one set of teeth are sharper, or sharpened at a little different angle.

If you can put saw in a vise when sharpening it. Put yourself in the same position , leaning over the saw per side. The "angle of the dangle" can make a big difference.



'and then turn the bar over.
 
Ok - so here I'm getting some great advice and that's why I post here :)

The problem seems most likely to be either the bar or the chain - perhaps obvious to those 'in the know' but still good to know. I'm a bit concerned about the implication that it could be a mismatch between the bar and chain.

Since I bought this saw used and it came with this bar/chain combination I don't know the history. For all I know the prior owner put the wrong chain on it - perhaps wore the bar funny and this is a new chain after that one, or this is a mismatched one... I just don't know.

I'm considering just 'starting new' with a new bar/chain combination that I know is good so at least I know the history and any problems will be my own rather than take a lot of time trying to learn how to sharpen and fix problems with messed up teeth at the same time.

So - is there a good place online to buy a bar/chain combination? Does this approach make sense to folks or am I wasting money here?
 
Slow1 said:
The problem seems most likely to be either the bar or the chain
Well... it sure aint the carb!

Slow1 said:
The problem seems most likely to be either the bar or the chain
or am I wasting money here?

Take the bar off. turn it so the worn side is up, and lay a quarter on the edge. Look down the length and see that the coin is angled to one side. Put the bar in a vise and run a bastard file down the length, holing it perpendicular. It's a 5 minute job. Save your money.

I've never heard so much nonsense... right handed filers... loose chains... Maybe it's gravitational forces.
 
LLigetfa said:
Slow1 said:
The problem seems most likely to be either the bar or the chain
Well... it sure aint the carb!

Slow1 said:
The problem seems most likely to be either the bar or the chain
or am I wasting money here?

Take the bar off. turn it so the worn side is up, and lay a quarter on the edge. Look down the length and see that the coin is angled to one side. Put the bar in a vise and run a bastard file down the length, holing it perpendicular. It's a 5 minute job. Save your money.

I've never heard so much nonsense... right handed filers... loose chains... Maybe it's gravitational forces.

I've had a new chain and bar, used a couple of tanks of gas, filed, and it cut at a slight angle. I sharpened one side a little too much or less. Usually from me hurrying or not paying attention. Never had a bar go out of whack, or at least in a way that it caused the saw to cut crooked. New one to me. Unless it's from the saw not being sharpened correctly and the operator having to compensate, by twisting the saw a little to keep straight. I could see how that might cause the bar to wear at an angle.

And yes i agree that the blade should but turned, I don't do it everytime I sharpen the saw. Do it at the end of the day/job when it gets a thorough cleaning.
 
I've sat with other supposed expert woodcutters around a campfire where this sort of discussion took place more than once. Each person espousing their chain sharpening prowess like it was some secret of the trade. After they all took turns making fools of themselves, I filed the bar.

Now, I won't say that a bad file job on the chain cannot be to blame. I've seen some terrible jobs in my time. Slow1 did say however, that he used a guide so I would have to assume that at least the angles are right.

Slow1 said:
I tried using the sharpener that came with the saw (mounts on to the bar and holds file 'right' so it says) and sharpened all the teeth as best as I could...
 
Slow1 said:
I finally got a chance to really do some cutting with my new (used) 028. So, I attacked a nice big log and it dug right in which was nice, but it didn't take long to notice that instead of a good straight cut down, it was wanting to curve to the right as it was cutting. This was enough so that the top of the bar was eventually cutting wood as well as it continued down and the deeper I went the worse it seemed to be.

I tried using the sharpener that came with the saw (mounts on to the bar and holds file 'right' so it says) and sharpened all the teeth as best as I could - not really knowing for certain what is good as I'm all new to this. Anyway, after that it cut faster, but still put the same curve in there.

On the bright side, it didn't bog down or quit on me (until I ran out of gas), but I have some rounds now that will be seriously difficult to stand up and split :)

Thoughts? Just get a new chain to start with (I figured I would need to replace the one that came with this used saw, but wanted to try it anyway) - could it be something more than the chain?

Get your bar dressed.
 
i had been told by my dad as a kid, that when you file your chain, you take the same number of strokes on each tooth,start from the blank end of the file and hold the angle of the tooth...correct or incorrect?

later on in life i was told by a kid who i work with(says he went to forestry school), that there are different angles of filing for softwood and hardwood.i had never heard of this from dad, and always he filed his chain the same way every time.was this guy telling me the truth or blowing smoke ? dad never mentioned anything like this,and he has worked in the woods all his life,and cut every stick of wood that has ever heated our house.

thanx for any info or corrections,i am asking because i am willing to learn.

mike
 
mjbrown65 said:
i had been told by my dad as a kid, that when you file your chain, you take the same number of strokes on each tooth,start from the blank end of the file and hold the angle of the tooth...correct or incorrect?

later on in life i was told by a kid who i work with(says he went to forestry school), that there are different angles of filing for softwood and hardwood.i had never heard of this from dad, and always he filed his chain the same way every time.was this guy telling me the truth or blowing smoke ? dad never mentioned anything like this,and he has worked in the woods all his life,and cut every stick of wood that has ever heated our house.

thanx for any info or corrections,i am asking because i am willing to learn.

mike

Incorrect. File each tooth till it is sharp.
 
mjbrown65 said:
i had been told by my dad as a kid, that when you file your chain, you take the same number of strokes on each tooth,start from the blank end of the file and hold the angle of the tooth...correct or incorrect?

later on in life i was told by a kid who i work with(says he went to forestry school), that there are different angles of filing for softwood and hardwood.i had never heard of this from dad, and always he filed his chain the same way every time.was this guy telling me the truth or blowing smoke ? dad never mentioned anything like this,and he has worked in the woods all his life,and cut every stick of wood that has ever heated our house.

thanx for any info or corrections,i am asking because i am willing to learn.

mike

Mixed... Your Dad's approach is pretty much correct - though it is more important to get each tooth sharp than it is to count the number of strokes you take, or getting each tooth to the exact same length as the others (though there should not be a lot of variation, especially side to side) - this can be a bit tricky as most of us will have one side that we just naturally tend to be stronger on, and thus file differently on the two sides of the chain...

You should always push the file through the cutter from the inside to the outside, starting with the file end opposite the handle, and staying as close as you can to the angles specified by the chain manufacturer. use the full length of the file and NEVER drag the file back through the cutter, lift it out at the end of the stroke to reposition.

Most people use the same cutter angles regardless of the sort of wood they are cutting. Some folks will file the rakers down a little more for hardwood but only a little - like .025" vs .030" (typically one size different on your raker guages) There are a few people that will use different angles but they tend to be the ultra high performance chasers, and it probably doesn't make that much difference for most people.

As to the original question about cutting in a curve, it can be:

1. The chain sharpening on the cutters, with one side being sharper or a different length, or:

2. The rakers being higher on one side than the other, or:

3. The bar needing dressing, with one rail being higher, or:

4. The chain wearing more on one side than the other where the outer links run along the bar rails (often as a result of #3, and can cause a continuing problem after #3 is fixed)

5. The bar being slightly bent or twisted (easy to do if you get the saw hung up and try to force it out...)

6. Improper chain / bar fit, either from using the wrong size chain or the bar rails spreading and allowing the chain to "rock" in the groove.

7. More than one of the above...

It can take close examination, and a certain amount of experience to know what to look for in order to diagnose and fix the problems. IMHO I would advise you, as a relative novice, to take the saw to a shop with a good tech dept. that knows what it's doing and is willing to spend some time teaching you, for some diagnosis advice, and / or to get a new bar, chain and sprocket just so that you know your setup is all good and have a clean start rather than trying to diagnose someone elses problems.

For sources, support your favorite saw shop, or go to someplace like Amick's, Bailey's or any of the other mail order places that have been mentioned in some of the other chain threads if you want to possibly save some money...

As to flipping the bar, it is something that should be done, but I don't usually take the bar off just to flip it - rather I will flip it any time I have the bar off for some other reason...

Gooserider
 
I had the same problem on one of my saws, (homelite Timberman). I got it used, (paid under $10 for it).
It wouldn't cut straight. The chain was loose and would rock back and forthe in the bar. I replaced the .050 gauge chain with a .058 gage and problem solved.
 
Update:

I took the saw to my Stihl dealer/service tech. I like them - good folks.

He listened and then looked at the saw and then pointed out that the chain was able to wiggle in the bar quite a bit - basically said the bar was junk. So I bought a new bar and two chains (I had planned on the chains anyway) as well as a scrench (however it is spelled) and a new sparkplug (figured I have no idea how old it is). Now this saw should be good to go for a very long time eh?

Today I got my first chance to cut again since I swapped out all the parts. AMAZING! What an experience it is to cut with this thing. I went through those logs faster than I had thought I would. Before I knew it I was out of gas and having to refill. I do think I need to adjust my idle up a bit as it stalled out a couple times when in idle while I was staring at the pile plotting out where to cut next.

So for a total of about $175 (saw and new parts) I now have a pretty good saw I think - Not a bad deal.

Now - question... how fast do you folks go through the bar and chain oil? I seem to almost drain the tank with each tank of gas, is this normal? I isn't dry, but I'm just surprised at how much it it taking (that old electric saw hardly took any at all it seems - of course I think I cut a lot more wood already here... heh).
 
I'm not familiar with that model saw but the general rule of thumb is two tanks of gas to one of oil. I used half a gallon of oil to buck 12 cord. Many here seem to use more than twice that amount.
 
I will disagree w/ LL slightly... The rule of thumb I've always heard from saw pros is that you should use ALMOST one tank of oil for each tank of mix (note that on most saws the oil tank is smaller than the gas tank) - the idea is that you should have enough oil left in the tank when you run out of gas that you KNOW the bar never ran dry, but not a lot extra...

The logic seems quite straightforward to me - saw makers are trying hard to keep the weight of the saw down, so why would they make the oil tank larger than necessary to have enough for a full tank of gas?

The only exception that I could possibly see to this is if you have a saw with an adjustable oiler where you are running a bar significantly smaller than the saw was designed for. In that case you might want to turn the oiler down a little bit to save oil and end up with a bit extra each time, (Just don't forget to turn it back up if you put the big bar on it) but I would tend to think that if you are getting two full tanks of gas to one of oil you are under oiling the chain...

As in a lot of things, there is a bit of a trade-off - do you reduce the oil useage, at the possible cost of reducing bar and chain life by some amount, or do you use more oil and hopefully extend the bar and chain life?

Gooserider
 
When I am out of gas for my saw I should have just a bit of oil left. I always fill up the oil when I gas up. Glad to hear that you solved your cutting problem.
 
^yup...what Josh said.
 
As always - thanks for the advice and information everyone. Looks like I need to buy some more bar and chain oil :) I better buy it in the gallon jug from now on if I'm going to keep this up eh?
 
Slow1 said:
Now - question... how fast do you folks go through the bar and chain oil? I seem to almost drain the tank with each tank of gas, is this normal? I isn't dry, but I'm just surprised at how much it it taking (that old electric saw hardly took any at all it seems - of course I think I cut a lot more wood already here... heh).

Three directions as I received them for my 'new-to-me' Stihl:

1. Gas: Premium gas only, mixed 50:1.
2. Bar oil: Refill everytime you tank up with gas.
3. No exceptions to the above.

Shari
 
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