Saw "what'd I break" question

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heffergm

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 24, 2009
162
South Shore, MA
Long story short, the oil hole in my bar was plugged, which I didn't notice until the bottom of the bar started turning black and smoking. Aside from the chain being a write off, should I worry about the bar?
 
heffergm said:
Long story short, the oil hole in my bar was plugged, which I didn't notice until the bottom of the bar started turning black and smoking. Aside from the chain being a write off, should I worry about the bar?


lay it on something flat and see if its straight and the chain may still be good as well check for bluing
 
Once you smoke on real good they lose their temper and they will begin to wear unevenly. Doesn't mean they are a throw-away though. You can clean them up a good bit if you have a belt sander with table that can be set to 90 degrees - you could clean one up with a grinder too I suppose but I haven't done it that way and would be hesitant to do so. Anyway put one up against a sanding belt so the travel of the belt ran the length of the saw, not across it, and you can usually bring them back to life for a couple of cutting seasons. Eventually the inside of the grove will begin to wear allowing the chain to wobble or lean favoring one side more than the other. When that happens they start cutting in circles and there's nothing you can do about it other than replace the bar. You're probably no where near that point just yet.
 
Thanks for the info. Probably a good excuse to
switch to a 16" bar. I don't need the 18" for 90% of my cutting anyway.
 
^Actually you should consider a 20" bar, you may want to put a different drive sprocket on it if you do. Check with the dealer. Less bending and imo safer too...just mho no facts or stats.
 
savageactor7 said:
^Actually you should consider a 20" bar, you may want to put a different drive sprocket on it if you do. Check with the dealer. Less bending and imo safer too...just mho no facts or stats.

+1

Yup 260 I would go 20 inch.. Make sure you have the right sprocket tho....
 
As a counter opinion - I don't like over-barring a saw, even if one is only using it in little wood - my 36cc Pull-on always cut like crap with the 16" bar that came with it, even in small 4-6" logs. I could cut bigger, but it was bog city when I did, if I had to go full bar, it required constant levering to keep the chain moving... When I properly barred it with a 12" it became a little wood eating monster - albeit one that required a lot more bending and effort to use. Even full bar cuts it did pretty well on.

The formula I've seen is that 3-4cc of saw engine per inch of bar is optimal - a longer bar than that you spend to much saw power just dragging the chain around the bar, and don't have enough for cutting... If you want a 20" bar, get a 60+ cc engine...

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
As a counter opinion - I don't like over-barring a saw, even if one is only using it in little wood - my 36cc Pull-on always cut like crap with the 16" bar that came with it, even in small 4-6" logs. I could cut bigger, but it was bog city when I did, if I had to go full bar, it required constant levering to keep the chain moving... When I properly barred it with a 12" it became a little wood eating monster - albeit one that required a lot more bending and effort to use. Even full bar cuts it did pretty well on.

The formula I've seen is that 3-4cc of saw engine per inch of bar is optimal - a longer bar than that you spend to much saw power just dragging the chain around the bar, and don't have enough for cutting... If you want a 20" bar, get a 60+ cc engine...

Gooserider

+1 I had the 260 for about 6 months I cant see it running a 20
 
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