Sealing single wall pipe, how far do you go.

[Kosmik]

All my connections that don't need disconnection were cemented together.
The ones that do need disconnection, however?

I used to seal up with a fireplace silicate cement that came in a tube, treated it as caulking.
But since I am cleaning nearly every two/three weeks...
Last night I said "f* it".

If I do hit it again I guess just at the top and at the telescoping are where there seems to be some big gaps. But fires ran pretty good last night. Stove never jumped over 650 (was worried could have affected draft from what I was used to), didn't get smoke leakage out the pipe (just the stove door, bad draft).

So, seemed to make the room cool down slightly quicker and little longer to heat up, but hard to tell with leaky house and changing lows. But March is warmer than Feb, so thinking if I don't have any real problems come up, just losing a little heat isn't so bad.

Any thoughts on this.

 

[bholler]

well I have never sealed the seams in pipe as long as they fit right. I do often seal at the stove collar there are gaps there pretty often that and where the pipe goes into a clay crock but otherwise I have never seen the need for it. Also why are you cleaning every 2 to 3 weeks?

 

[Kosmik]

Rental, with crappy chimeny, crappy wood, and first time woodburner.
Basically I clean it every time I check it, and I check it every 2-3 weeks.
I know it's a PITA, but I learned what I needed so that I don't have to in the future. Next year, ect.

 

[bholler]

Ok but you rally should not have to seal the seams. If you have draft no smoke should come out and if they fit right not enough air should get in to make any difference in the draft.

 

[Kosmik]

Well they don't all fit just right. Gotta get a second hand in here to help me move the stove an inch. But it's good enough.
It would affect the draft by making it slow or speed up the firebox draft? I was thinking if anything it would slow it, like an barometric damper does, which would not be a problem.

 

[bholler]

Well if there are big gaps yes that is a problem it will reduce your draft and introduce cool air into the smoke stream which would increase creosote buildup. And a barometric damper should almost never be used on a wood stove. There are some furnaces that call for tem but I don't think they are a good idea in those situations either.

 

[Kosmik]

Understood, was more worried about it increasing draft and contributing to a runaway situation. Wanted to know if my logic was astray.
Looks like I'll be doing the gaps at the telescoping piece and the chimney box. The others seem tight enough to save the effort.

After going sealant happy, figured I might try out some time savings seeing as others didn't go so sealant happy.

 

[Highbeam]

On my single wall installation i found large gaps in the joints where the snap lock gear is. I caulked these shut from the outside with cement. There is no way to avoid those gaps that i could find.