Seeking advice on backpuffing Osburn 2400i

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shaggymatt

Member
Oct 31, 2007
33
South Central PA
I recently had an Osburn 2400i(nsert) installed into my newly purchased house. The installer put in a 6" liner into my exterior brick chimney. The house is a split level, the stove is in a basement which is about half way underground.

I have about 4 cords of well seasoned wood. Have been through about a 1/2 cord so far this fall. The wood is dry, always ignites within a minute. The stove lights easily, I can start a fire with 5-6 pieces of newspaper, some branches, and a piece of cordwood, and the fire is well on its way with no further attention. This is not when I have the drafting problem. I cannot load the stove with any additional wood until the flames are entirely gone, and only embers are left in the stove. Normally this isn't a huge problem, but if we want to put on one more piece of wood before bed, leaving to go somewhere or whatever, that is when we run into problems. In other words, if there is an established fire, you can't open the door without smoke pouring into the room.

This occurs when there is no wind, or there is wind, so it isn't a wind issue with the cap. The brick portion of the chimney goes higher than the roofline already (off the top of my head - it is dark right now as I type). The installer then left ~1.5 feet of pipe exposed and put the cap in place. For this reason, I don't think that it is a height issue. I've opened windows in the house attempting to equalize pressures, again no luck here.

I *think* that the problem really has come in from where the exhaust outlet on the Osburn is located. It is very far to the front of the stove. When he installed the stove, he couldn't get the liner to line up with the exhaust port. So he had to go to a metal shop and have a (beautiful - at the cost of just over $100) stainless steel double bend elbow made. So it goes up, bends 90 degrees, back another 8-10", and makes another 90 degree bend to line with the liner.

Once loaded, the stove burns great. I've only had to clean the glass when I performed the low temperature break in burns to cure the paint. I've burned the stove for upwards of two weeks, heating the entire house. I'm very happy with the performance, just not the smoke in the house. I did notice that from the previous homeowner, there is a lot of soot on the bricks directly above the fireplace opening.

Thoughts? Many thanks!
 
Some thing is wrong. Sounds like a pressure problem in the house. Your stove is not breathing right. Is a exhaust fan on some place? what floor is it on? Does it smoke if a widow is open in the same room? How tall is the vent ? inside or out side chimney.

Try opening the primary air full open and opening the door very slowly.
 
DriftWood said:
Some thing is wrong. Sounds like a pressure problem in the house. Your stove is not breathing right. Is a exhaust fan on some place? what floor is it on? Does it smoke if a widow is open in the same room? How tall is the vent ? inside or out side chimney.

Try opening the primary air full open and opening the door very slowly.

Nope. There are no exhaust fans running in the house.

The stove is in the family room which is a partially underground basement. I've tried leaving a window cracked in the same room (for an extended period to equalize) and that didn't help.

The chimney is brick with the stainless liner on an exterior wall of the house. I looked at it more closely yesterday when I was outside. The liner doesn't come up a foot and a half like I originally said. It is probably more like 8" and then the cap is on top of there.

I have been opening the air control all the way. It starts smoking when the door opens more than a quarter of the way or so. Which is when the rolling effect in the firebox is broken.
 
Starting with the simplest idea, I hope you looked carefully inside the stove at the baffle position, etc....things can get out of place. It should be obvious in the manual, or stop in the stove shop...how everything should be.

Based on your description, after that we have to default to what you said about the chimney bends. Although these can be debated, a good rule of thumb is that each 90 degree turn takes 5 feet off the effective height of the chimney. So you added two to the system, meaning taking 10 feet off the chimney!

So my advice would be:
1. Check very carefully the baffle arrangement.
2. Temporarily install a piece of galvanized pipe 3 feet in length or longer on top of your existing liner (remove cap) - of course, you installer may have to do this for you!

If #2 solves the problem, then extend the liner with stainless steel 3 feet or so, and then encapsulate the liner with a set of castings (plug) which I invented at:
http://www.extendaflue.com/cast.html

Insulating some or all of the liner will also help.....even the top couple feet and what is inside the extendaflue.

Depending on your contract, agreement and understanding, at least some of this (at least the trial fix) should be the responsibility of the dealer.
 
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