Serious stove instillation confusion???? Help???

[yankeesouth]

Okay..... I am officially confused! All the postings I have read about installing a stove, mine will be a pre EPA Mid-Moe, into an existing fireplace say to put stove pipe all the way to the top of the chimney. (The chimney is terracotta lined and in good shape.) Well…….. I am tinkering around the net and find this article on Hearth.com about installing a stove in an existing chimney. Without going into detail below is what I gleaned from the article. Can someone clean up my confusion and let me know if running about 5ft or so of pipe into the chimney will work until I can get the whole thing lined with pipe? This will be used in a seasonal cabin. Excerpts from the article below:

"Here are the basics
* At the minimum, extend a 5 foot flexible stainless steel tube from your stove or insert up through the damper and into the first flue tile.
* If the chimney is unlined, or if you want to do the best possible job, line the entire height of the chimney with stainless steel pipe the same size as the flue collar on your stove - typically 6â€
Quick 1-2-3 Summary of this Document
The Chimney
* Every Wood Stove need a chimney—either a LINED Masonry or Class A (HT) Insulated Metal. You cannot use a Stovepipe through a window !
* Existing Fireplace Chimneys can be used if they are partially or fully lined with approved materials. Careful if you have a “pre-fab†or zero clearance fireplace - most stoves are not able to be used in this type of unit."

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove
Article link.

 

[pen]

That method is messy and doesn't help draft but if that chimney is safe w/ that old moe you should be OK as it doesn't need the draft that an epa appliance requires

I would definately recommend SS to the sky, insulated if possible and a block off plate for maximum performance and safety.

Even though it is in a fireplace, don't forget to maintain required clearances to combustables such as a wood mantle, carpet in front, etc.

pen

 

[fossil]

I second everything pen says above. The "slammer" install (shoving in the stove with a short length of flue up into the chimney) is not only less than ideal for draft (the sudden cross-sectional area increase the flue gases encounter when leaving the short flue and entering the chimney will seriously slow the flow, leading to lots of cooling and thus potential for creosote condensation as the flue gases make their way to daylight), but difficult to clean, as creosote will inevitably form up in that masonry chimney, flake off and fall down all around the short length of flue. To properly clean it, you'll probably need to pull the stove. There are a number of reasons that a full liner to daylight is the optimum installation. Rick

 

[DanCorcoran]

Ditto to the above...a woodstove can be a joy if it works well. It can also be a PIA if it doesn't draw well or is difficult to clean.

 

[zzr7ky]

hi -

I was sorely tempted to not line all the eay up, as at least 3 of my extended family members have been doing for decades.

I called them. All clean the chimney and get 4-6 gallons of creosote in the Spring. One had a chimney fire.

I lined with rigid SS all the way up. It was a stove into the existing FP opening install I was able to do myself. I get a couple cups of fly ash out of it every Spring. Line it, you won't regret it.

ATB,
Mike

 

[yankeesouth]

Thanks guys....while I am looking for an easy(ier) fix.....I do want to do it right. Thank you!