Setting up for NEXT year....

[soupy1957]

Even though our "February" has been a whole winter, shoved into the confines of one month (we got snow in January, but it was NOTHING like "February" this year, here in New England), "Spring" is definitely on it's way. I see various groups of birds flocking, and a number of rodents that have awakened from their hibernation and are running around in search of food.

So my thoughts turn to next seasons burn, and I have questions like:

A) How am I going to set up my half-acre for 3 cords of wood?
B) Where will I put the stacks?
C) Will I cover them?
D) The price of wood in the Spring should be lower, right?
E) Should I buy as much "seasoned" wood as I can find, and get the rest "green?"
F) If I buy "green" in May, will it really be ready to burn in October, (especially if I have a "wet" summer)?
G) How can I ensure, THIS time, that the wood I buy will truly be cut 16 - 18" max, through the whole load?
H) How much will a "good" Chimney Sweep charge me to clean out my stove pipe, this summer?


Lots to think about as I prep for my first "full season" burn, next year.

-Soupy1957

 

[LLigetfa]

A) Go vertical.
B) Where you get good wind and sun.
C) Depends on B.
D) I doubt it.
E) Yes, depending on price and availability.
F) You're dreaming, even if you have a "dry" Summer.
G) Buy logs and buck it yourself. Won't work for next Winter though, see F.
H) Twice what a cut-rate sweep will charge.

 

[Shari]

Well, one answer to storing 3 cord on a 1/2 lot is what I do on our 1/2 acre:

That stack is 12' long x 4' tall x 2 rows of 18-22" splits. equals 1+ cord. Oh, and it is covered for winter. It is almost empty now!

Shari

 

[PapaDave]

A) Go vertical.
B) Where you get good wind and sun.
C) Depends on B.
D) I doubt it.
E) Yes, depending on price and availability.
F) You're dreaming, even if you have a "dry" Summer.
G) Buy logs and buck it yourself. Won't work for next Winter though, see F.
H) Twice what a cut-rate sweep will charge.

This. +1, and Shari's got the whole camo "stylin'" thing goin' on. Too cool.

 

[Vic99]

I currently have 7 cords stacked on my half acre hilly, forested lot. Plan to get another 1-2 cords in the next few months. I've had to get creative. Stacking in Holtz Haufen form helps save space.

It's tough to turn down wood, especially when it's free. However, it is a great feeling to be 2+ yrs ahead and know that the wood will be seasoned.

 

[SolarAndWood]

If you aren't set up for 2+ yrs, you likely are never going to burn dry wood on the East coast. Get set up vertical under a roof for 10 cord, then wait for the bargains on just cut wood to come up. Scrounge pine or spruce for next year; its out there and free for the taking.

 

[zzr7ky]

You're not burning the whole pile in October.

Ash, Silver Maple, Cherry, etc... will be ready. This is especially true if split fine and length is short, say 16". Stack Oak aside where you won't be tripping over it this fall.

Start soon,
Mike P

 

[LLigetfa]

I agree Cherry, Ash, Maple, Locust will be [strike]ready[/strike] marginal.

I fixed it for you.

I would never say "ready" for same year wood, only "marginal". Not even for Ash unless it's standing dead White Ash.

 

[LLigetfa]

There is no Cherry here to speak of but there is lots of Ash and while there are lots of people that claim you can burn it the day it is cut, I prefer not to burn it even the same year it is cut! Right now I'm burning Ash that was processed even before the Ash I burned last year and I certainly can tell the difference one more year makes. Most of next Winter's (2010/2011) Ash had been bucked up for over a year already as well as the 2011/2012 wood. Some of next year's wood had been bucked up more than two years ago. It's all about how and when I load it into the shed, with some of the older stuff getting blocked in with newer wood. None the less, I vow never to burn same year wood again if I can help it.

 

[Tony H]

While it is best to season for a year or more some wood will be good to burn in a shorter time . I have burned many a cord of silver maple after six months with the moisture down in the 15 to 20 % range. I had several this year live trees taken down cut and split in June that were dry and burned great in December. They were stacked one row deep on a hill with lots of sun and great wind . The drying conditions were very good and I also had some honey locust freshly cut that was ready in six months but it was smaller six inch branches that I split to allow it to dry.
Another factor is the stove or boiler you are using.
To answer your question get as much seasoned or partly seasoned wood as you are able and get some green that's low moisture content (s maple ,ash, honey locust, ect ) and you can worst case mix some of the less seasoned stuff in toward the middle to end of the season. Because of your area limitations avoid slow drying woods like oak ,mulberry or trade them for ash.

 

[soupy1957]

Ash, eh? Guess I'd better read up, so I know "Ash" when I see it............I get the impression that most wood providers don't segregate their wood piles by species..........I think they'd laugh at me if I said (for example) "I'd like 3 cords of Ash please."

I HAVE noticed that some types of wood burn different than others though.........for example.........I noted in an earlier thread in here that Cherry seemed to be more of an internal-burning, longer lasting hardwood, than other types. (Not that I'm partial to Cherry wood mind you).

If I had my druthers, I'd burn wood that smells nice (like say, Hickory) and lasts a while, and gives me a nice flame.

-Soupy1957

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Even though our "February" has been a whole winter, shoved into the confines of one month (we got snow in January, but it was NOTHING like "February" this year, here in New England), "Spring" is definitely on it's way. I see various groups of birds flocking, and a number of rodents that have awakened from their hibernation and are running around in search of food.

So my thoughts turn to next seasons burn, and I have questions like:

A) How am I going to set up my half-acre for 3 cords of wood?
1/2 acre should pose no problem as 3 cord of wood does not take up much room at all.

B) Where will I put the stacks?
On the ground but put some poles underneath so they don't make contact with the ground. Preferably where sun and wind will hit the stacks; at least wind but sun is very helpful too.

C) Will I cover them?
That all depends on you and what you are comfortable with. If you do cover, then cover the top of the piles only.

D) The price of wood in the Spring should be lower, right?
Maybe so, maybe not. Around here, not. Same price year around. Perhaps this should only be a small factor as getting the wood in time so it has time to dry would rate as a higher factor as would wood types.

E) Should I buy as much "seasoned" wood as I can find, and get the rest "green?"
It is probably one and the same with wood sellers. If there is a difference, buy seasoned only.

F) If I buy "green" in May, will it really be ready to burn in October, (especially if I have a "wet" summer)?
That depends upon what the wood is but don't count too heavily no matter what the type is. Even the relatively dry woods like more time than this. But if I had to do that, my choice of wood would be ash and/or cherry.

G) How can I ensure, THIS time, that the wood I buy will truly be cut 16 - 18" max, through the whole load?
By checking out the sellers wood pile before you buy. Still no guarantee though.

H) How much will a "good" Chimney Sweep charge me to clean out my stove pipe, this summer?
A lot more than it would cost you to buy the tools to do it yourself.



Lots to think about as I prep for my first "full season" burn, next year.

And when you do stop to think, don't forget to get started again.

-Soupy1957

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Well, one answer to storing 3 cord on a 1/2 lot is what I do on our 1/2 acre:

That stack is 12' long x 4' tall x 2 rows of 18-22" splits. equals 1+ cord. Oh, and it is covered for winter. It is almost empty now!

Shari

Shari, you surprise me! Why was that stack of wood partially covered on the sides and ends? Better to cover the top only. But, at least it is neat.

 

[firefighterjake]

A) Small area = need to keep things compact and tight with a small footprint . . . honestly you can pack a lot of wood into a relatively small area . . . especially if you go higher rather than wider or longer in your stacking . . . just be sure to keep things stable.

B) Wherever you can . . . ideally exposed to the sun and wind . . . but realistically wherever your wife says is best which probably means it will be in the back corner of the lot.

C) Me . . . I would . . . but not right away. I would keep them uncovered until the Fall . . . maximize the sun and wind.

D) Doubtful . . . I don't hear of wood going on sale . . . and in fact at this time of year you might find folks selling at higher prices to those folks who ran out of their wood and are desperately looking for more wood to keep their home warm.

E) If space is limited and you can't season your wood for a year or more . . . yeah, you'll probably have to buy "seasoned" wood . . . and then finish off the "seasoning" process at your own home. Buying green wood and letting it season for a year or more is perhaps one of the best things you can do . . . but urban burners may not be able to do this very well if they do not have the space to have the current year's wood stacked . . . and space set aside for the following year's wood.

F) Nope . . . 5 months is not enough time . . . sure some of the wood may burn fair, but you'll never experience burning nirvana until you are burning truly seasoned wood. Trust me on this. I thought the wood I was burning last wood was great (and to be truthful it wasn't bad) . . . but the wood I've been burning this year with a year+ of seasoning has brought me to a whole other plain of existence . . . longer burns, hotter burns and fires that start more easily and get going faster.

G) Find a good dealer . . . and realize that folks aren't always perfect.

H) Depends . . . hard to say since the prices do range in price. As to finding a good sweep . . . you can always try doing a search at the chimney sweep institute to find a decent sweep. http://www.csia.org/

 

[soupy1957]

As to the issue of Chimney Sweeps, we are currently entertaining bids.......the first one bid $875.00 for the furnace chimney, stating that all the grout needs to be removed and replaced, and the "Wash" (what "I" call the "Cap") needs repair. Includes Labor and a stainless steel cap for the flue. I asked him (since our furnace chimney doesn't have a door at the bottom if they attempt to vacuum out the flue, and he said that anything below the furnace feed tube would most likely be hard as a rock, and they would only clean down as far as "just below the furnace feed tube."

He said he looked down the chimney for the wood stove, and didn't see any need to clean it now.........we've only burned for a couple of months, and there isn't any build up. Perhaps next Spring would be good.

More bids to come.

-Soupy1957

 

[soupy1957]

Next Chimney Sweep states $2,000.00..........says I need an aluminum liner in my furnace chimney, and states that I should have all the brick taken down and replaced.......those things plus a hatch door at the base of the chimney (to be built in), and a full cleaning, plus a stainless steel chimney cap.

Geez!!

-Soupy1957

 

[firefighterjake]

I would get a few more quotes there Soupy . . . and see if the sweeps' advice all jives . . . or if it sounds like some are trying to make some extra coin.

 

[Shari]

Well, one answer to storing 3 cord on a 1/2 lot is what I do on our 1/2 acre:

That stack is 12' long x 4' tall x 2 rows of 18-22" splits. equals 1+ cord. Oh, and it is covered for winter. It is almost empty now!

Shari

Shari, you surprise me! Why was that stack of wood partially covered on the sides and ends? Better to cover the top only. But, at least it is neat.

Heh,heh,heh! That stack is (was) my imitation woodshed. Some wood in there was from 3 yrs. ago and was getting a little soft. The rest of the wood in there was cut/split/stacked 2+ yrs. As near as I figured it, that wood did not need any more seasoning and I just wanted to keep the snow off. PS Yesterday I took the last of the wood out of it.

Shari

 

[soupy1957]

have 3 written quotes so far, (two of which are saying I should get the liner in my furnace chimney), and one more to go........

-Soupy1957

 

[prajna101]

1/2 acre a problem? What? I can store a few cords on my land in the city. The property line is 40 ft x 50 ft. My 30x30 house sits on it too. I have a small garden and a driveway that I am not allowed to cover. I laugh at people's 4ft tall stacks. Mine can easily be above 10ft.

Heck, if you stack 8ft, a cord only takes up a 4x4 square.

 

[azsteven]

1/2 acre a problem? What? I can store a few cords on my land in the city. The property line is 40 ft x 50 ft. My 30x30 house sits on it too. I have a small garden and a driveway that I am not allowed to cover. I laugh at people's 4ft tall stacks. Mine can easily be above 10ft.

Heck, if you stack 8ft, a cord only takes up a 4x4 square.

I also have a small lot in town, similar size. Any recommendations on how you build your stacks 10' tall and keep them stable? I have my stacks on pallets, but only about 5'-6' tall (still, that's 3/4 cord on a pallet).
I have a course of wood going one way, maybe 10 pieces tall or about 2 feet, then another course the other way about 2 feet, etc. Do you stack all one way? Got "sides" to hold it together?

In addition to the small footprint, I need to balance stacks being close to the driveway with the fact that I'm gonna start putting up wood for 2011-2012, and need a place to put it which doesn't get in the way of 2010 wood... but I don't want to move it twice either. Ideally, I'd have 2 sheds each holding 3 cords of wood, but I simply don't have the space for that.

 

[prajna101]

I end up scrounging a lot of dimensional lumber with wood scores. I burn a lot of it (a different discussion) but the painted or treated stuff gets used to build things. Like firewood rack sides or tops. I have kids and they play around the stacks too, so I get paranoid with tall stacks and kids, so I have been known to put extra "strapping" type pieces of lumber across big faces of wood stackes to give some extra security in case stuff shifts.

The really tall stacks are all against a fence on one side of them too. So it is really only about 3 or 4 feet unsupported over the top. I have to be careful to only do that along the fence with no neighbors. Its just bushes over there so no one to get mad. Then the row in front of that isnt so tall. The row in front of that is even shorter. and so on.

I have space for about 7 cords in various places without too much obnoxiousness. That is a few year's worth in my mild climate.

t

 

[soupy1957]

I know I have enough room on my 1/2 acre.........it's just doing the layout in a reasonable fashion that I'm concerned about.

-Soupy1957

 

[prajna101]

I know I have enough room on my 1/2 acre.........it's just doing the layout in a reasonable fashion that I'm concerned about.

-Soupy1957

See, there is the problem. My wife and I define "reasonable" differently.

 

[soupy1957]

Ain't THAT the truth!! It's about what works well, (so I'm not putting mud footprints across the backyard in the "mud" season), for me, but it's also about what pleases HER...........LOL.

In truth, not only is it a mud factor, but also sun & rain........I'd rather just have a big enough shed or barn built or installed that could HOLD 3 cords of wood, that was airy enough to allow drying, but covered enough to KEEP the wood dry, and not fill my back yard (what there is OF it). I've seen plans, I've seen sheds for sale.........I really don't want to do any more "building" here (we've been 3 months into a renovation project at the house, and we're tired of "building" stuff), and I don't find sheds at Lowe's or Home Dippit that seem big enough for 3 cords, or priced low enough to satisfy.

-Soupy1957