Should I buy hurricane Ties for my new shed so Sandy won't bite?

Hello
I cheaped out and did not use Hurricane Ties on my new shed!!
Should I run down to Home Depot and get some to install this weekend? > > http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SEARCH ALL

The roof is 2x6s with an LVL in the peak.

No downside to them, installed properly o/c. Rather large downside to not having them installed when a big blow does occur.

Not if you already bought insurance.

Finally! Something Don's shed doesn't have....

You cheaped out on the really cheap stuff? I used them on my 'accessory buildings' here and on my patio covers, one on each end of the rafters where they hang on the bearing walls. We get hurracane force winds here very rarely (about every 10 years on average), but we had tornados here 2 years ago. They called them "freak cyclones." The engineers at the county building permit office recommended them as being way better than toe-nailed framing.

This is a 'perfect storm' brewing, not just a hurricane. They are already calling this one Frankenstorm. What your map does not show is that Sandy will meet head on with a huge cold front being fed by the jet stream. You may be far enough north to miss it, and the winds are not likely to be the big issue with this system. NYC winds are only projected to be around 50 MPH. Unless... *cough* The last "Perfect Storm" nor' easter hit on Holloween. The rains will be torrential, with warm tropical air hitting the jet stream fed cold front.

I would imagine that Home Depot is already a freak show there... but I would bang them in at some point, if not now, then sometime sooner than later. Rig your place for floods this time around.

Hard to say without seeing how the shed was designed. LVL for the ridge beam? Sounds like you have a BIG shed or you get a TON of snow where you live... or you just had an LVL sitting in a corner and wanted to use it!

LVL????

Sent from my rooted and eclipse running X2--thanks nitro-- if im posting on here I'm probably supposed to be working! I can't help im addicted to HEARTH.COM!

Ah I see!

Sent from my rooted and eclipse running X2--thanks nitro-- if im posting on here I'm probably supposed to be working! I can't help im addicted to HEARTH.COM!

That is it Pen.

When we built the shed I was thinking of a couple of 2x12s and all the collar ties and then we found for $48 we could get a 10' Laminated Veneer Lumber! No collar ties and supports so it was pretty cheap. I did have to add an extra wall stud on each end to support the LVL down to the ground with a concrete block with 3/4" stone going down in the ground 2 feet under the block. Worked out great because I am 6'3" and I do not hit my head on anything! LOL

See pic of LVL below. Click to Enlarge
See extra wall stud for support.

I know that armchair quarterbacking is 20:20 with instant replay, but I would have run a vertical 4x4 directly under the engineered beam to the ground rather than the extra wall stud that you used, or a 2x4 nailed sandwhich (same as a 4x4 in strength). Reason being is that there would be no weight transfer of the ridge beam downforce (or weight) required along the top plates. I would also have poured concrete footers at the base.

I had that exact same setup in my original garage retrofit design here as you show in your photo; a dual 2x12 ridge beam and rafters with collar ties. The county engineers said that my existing collar ties were too high and they only work if they are in the lower 1/3 of the rafter spans, so they removed them from the design and made the 2x6 rafter span 12 inch OC from 24 to cover the snow loading requirements (doubled them up). They redesigned my double 2x12 header with an engineered beam (I could have used an LVL for that). They also required a large concrete footer at the base of the ridge beam supports, each one 2 x 2 ft by one foot deep. They were most concerned with the ridge beam and roof weight transfer of that type of design for snow loading. Rather than do all that and re-pour the slab, as the slab was not inspected and hence not permitable, I left the walls and removed the original roof (way under built, and wrong at that) and rotated the bearing walls to the long walls of the building and ran rafters flat and sloped across the narrow span (12 ft). That way the entire long walls are distributing and bearing the roof load, and spreading it out along the perimiter of the slab footings.

I assume that you have toe-nailed the rafters to the bearing wall top plates? That is the place to add the hurricane ties. The advantage of having them is that they are nailed perpendicular to the wood so they hold fast. The better engineer that helped me redesign my 'garage' here had nothing but bad things to say about toe-nailed structures, and he was adamat that I use Simpson ties. And we were not building for hurricane force winds here... just basic structural requirements and snow loading. Snow loading here was based on 30#, you likely have higher requirements there in NH.

Don how exposed is your shed?

Hello
Not toe nailed. The 2x6 rafters are notched and sit on the top plate of the walls. That is pretty strong that way. So I was wondering if hurricane ties would add anymore strength?

See pic

The back of the shed is next to the neighbors 8 foot stockade fence and under his 30 foot pine tree. The right side is behind my 12 foot high and 10 foot wide rhododendron bushes. The left side is 6 feet from my 40 foot OAK tree. The front side is 15 feet from my deck on the south side of the house!

The entire roof is covered with Grace Ice & Water shield under architectural asphalt shingles.

See pic

I wouldn't worry about it, if it was out in the open it would be a different matter.

Your more apt to have it damaged by stuff falling on it or being blown into it.

Hello

Smokey's advice is very good.
Also, I think I may have found a good design answer. In this 2x4 low pitched roof design of the shed in pics below, The rafters rest on the top plate and bird blocks are installed instead of full soffits. Also the low angle in the roof would make it easy for a good wind to lift up the roof.

On my shed it has the standard pitch with notched 2x6s and full ventilated soffits like a house allow the air up under the roof and vent out the peak. There is no easy shear since the soffits are fully enclosed and nailed down.

Thanks all.

LOL,

A mod being sick of shed posts. At least it is in the correct section of the forums fossil and even you tree burners likely have something that resembles a shed.

We need a forum dedicated to sheds....I suggest we call it "The Shed Shed".

Seriously Don, you're not gonna see a gust over 40mph from this thing. You must've gotten a nor'easter that strong since your built it....

Right now, it looks like the thing is coming right over Philly, crickey !!

It is also sucking in so much dry air it may just dry up and blow away like the leaves see: http://www.ssd.noaa.gov/goes/east/eaus/flash-wv.html

Thanks Smokey

I thought this was a very appropriate question since we are expecting a BIG hurricane. I think the design answer I found can help alot of people. They can think about their shed design variations and surrounding area and prepare accordingly. Have a nice weekend. Thanks all for your help

I agree with your decision as enclosed an area it is in it will not see enough wind, I would just like to add hurricane ties prevent uplift, the wind passing over the roof create a low pressure field creating uplift, think airplane wing, it is not neccesarily the wind passing under / through the structure that blows it off.