Simpson double wall installation questions - Updated with conclusion pics

[Highbeam]

So I got my appliance adapter last night and installed it but I'm not real happy. I have a vertical install with a single telescoping piece of double wall from stove to ceiling.

I had a few problems but the first one is the little male/male snaplock piece that goes between the ceiling support box and the top of the double wall. Is that thing supposed to be so hokey? It just pushes in there and kind of snaps into the little groove? Mine came out of the ceiling support pretty easily but not out of the double wall. There is no means to screw this adapter into the ceiling box and it is not dripless. I can't imagine how you folks hang a non-vertical stove pipe from this connection without it falling apart.

The next real problem was the new appliance adapter. I mounted it to the bottom of the telescoping piece with the provided screws and then set the whole mess on the stove. Opened up the telescoping piece and got everything to hang there before installing the set screws. The tapered end of the appliance adapter is not tight in the stove's collar. I removed the baffle so that I could inspect the inside of this joint and the crimps don't appear to be resting on a casting. Not sure why it isn't tight. I can actually feel side to side slop at the stove collar. From below, there is no noticable gap between the collar and the crimp.

I spread the trombone as much as possible and installed the set screws. Then I put in the condar probe meter at 18" above the stove with no issues.

So should I pull the adapter out and pack this joint with rutland black? I know that the crimped end is buried in the stove collar but it's not a tight fit. What do I do?

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

the adapter is dripless, it goes in the grove between the liner and the box. It is chincy, but dripless. That adapter will not come out of the telescope without tearing it up. The heratage should not need the adapter. you will want to put the telescope directly on the collar.

 

[Highbeam]

I didn't have the adapter before but wanted a flue damper so I needed to install the adapter with a damper. Without the adapter, the telescoping end was a nice tight fit.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

I dont think you are going to get the fit you are looking for with the adapter. The damper can be removed, and installed in the telescope.
The off the shelf dampers will not work because the shaft is not long enough.

 

[Highbeam]

This is turning into a disaster. If I pull that adapter out of there then I will have extra screw holes in the slide and the probe thermometer will be way too close to the stove. Is there any way to make the adapter work? Thank you very much MSG for your time here...

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Doh. You can just put screws in the holes that you already made. I do not know of a way to expand the adapter to work on a tapered cast iron flue collar. The adapter is made for steel stoves or stoves without a tapered cast collar... Maybe someone else can post here that has had luck trying to expand the adapter. I suppose you could put mil pack in the gap between the adapter and stove, that might get you a tight enough connection.

Highbeam, glad i can help. Hope you get this figured out.

 

[Hogwildz]

Not saure your using the same adapter as I did. But I used Duarvent and had to modify it to get it to sit on my insert collar tightly.
If ya can post a pic of the stove outlet and the adapter your using, I may be able to help, not sure.

 

[daryl]

If the adapters outside skin is tight on the stove collar you can snip a little off the bottom of the adapter only the outer skin, then it should slide down a little farther.

 

[Highbeam]

The outer skin of the adapter has about a 1/4" gap all around the outside of the stove's collar, looks sharp. I used the DVL from Simpson. I fear that the crimped part may be setting on the interior castings unless the tall stove collar has actually gotten all the way up to the damper shaft.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

without re drilling everything, you will not be able to modify the hight of the adapter by cutting the bottom crimp off to get it down further. You will either have to expand the crimp some how, pack sealant in the gap, or take out the adapter and re drill holes for the damper, thermo, and screws. How tall is that chimney? do you really need a damper?

 

[Highbeam]

This might have been a 200$ mistake. I wanted to try a damper, certainly don't need one and knowing now that you can't use an appliance adapter on a heritage I wouldn't have bothered. I do want that probe thermometer to work and it will be lie 14" above the stove if I pull the adapter/damper out. I can fix the screw holes but how would you fix the probe thermometer holes? I'm getting that sinking feeling.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Long screws will fix any of those holes, if they have black heads they will not be that noticeable. The thermo will work fine at 14" might read a hair higher, but i would argue that 18" vs 14" will not make much difference. call condar to verify.

 

[daryl]

1/4 X3/4 hex head screw painted black?????

 

[Highbeam]

So I spoke with Condar, a very available company, and the man said it wouldn't matter at all if the meter was at 14 instead of 18". In fact, some people put them only a few inches above the stove! This was Eddie, the main technical guy in NC. THis is good news since I can salvage the telescoping piece which cost 150 plus shipping to replace. I'll still have screw holes to look at but that's a good reminder of my stupidity. I'll fill them with black screws.

I will also try and return the adapter as it does not fit. No actual damage was done to it except the holes had screws threaded in.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Cool, i think you are on the right track! the screw holes will not bother you after a while, they just blend right on in!

 

[gpcollen1]

Can't you just cut an inch or so off the bottom of the adapter and then it fits snugly? This is what I had to do - the bottom of the adapter is just too damn long...

 

[RustyShackleford]

Sort of a tangential question ... on the Simpson DVL pipe,
HOW do the adjustable and telescoping pipe sections work ?

In particular, when I clean my chimney I like to remove the
chimney connector (the pipe going from stove to Class A
chimney). So I'm wondering if using the telescoping pipe
will allow me to do this simply by shortening the pipe and
pulling it away (after removing screws, of course) ?

 

[hibeam]

This is highbeam but I'm having password issues....

I pulled the adapter last night and widened out the telescope to set down on the stove. This brought my thermometer from 18 to just over 15 inches above top of stove. Pretty ugly scratches in the stove pipe so I covered the stove and sprayed "stove-brite" paint and it turned out really nice. The screw holes through the outer shell of the double wall will remain as holes since once they are painted black they are pretty hard to see.

It is amazing how tightly the plain end double wall fits into the stove collar vs. the official appliance adapter that simpson sells. The cast iron collar on this hearthstone must be much wider than on a steel stove. I doubt that I could have cut enough off for the crimp to ever get tight. I took some photos but couldn't post them last night with the login troubles.

Can't wait to have a fire and watch that meter move.

One last question, since that little snap in chimney/stovepipe adapter is stuck in the stovepipe I was trying to get it up into the ceiling box by feel. Is it even possible to shove it into the inside of the chimney which could allow a drippy connection? It went up into the ceiling box pretty easy once it started and then snapped in place.

I still don't know how you folks hang elbows from that hokey connection.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

the connector will only go in the correct place. Impossible to install that in the inside of the pipe without the use of some crimper's.

 

[hibeam]

Great, then I think I'm golden. I was even able to find the original screw holes. The repaint/touchup worked really well too.

Thanks again for the help with this idiotic adventure of mine.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

No problem! you are going to love that stove! sorry i didnt pick up that you had a heritage on your accessory thread, i would have warned you ahead of time

 

[hibeam]

I do love the stove. I've shoved 11.5 cords through it so far and this is year three.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Nice! i loved mine too. Next time i am a wood burner, i will be installing the EQ. I like the looks better then the mansfield, but overall the heritage is the best looking stove in there line IMO. I dont see me giving up my pellet stove i just installed for some time!

 

[Highbeam]

So as discussed, the simpson adapter with damper doesn't work on Hearthstones without hacking something. The double wall fits tight. I removed the adpater/damper which is too bad since I wanted a damper. Ventingpipe.com has some nasty return policies where I'll only receive about half of what I paid but oh well.

So the first pic is of the installed damper and 18" condar placement. Looks good but the collar fit was sloppy. New screw holes had to be drilled in the pipe for this install.

Then with the adapter removed and condar at 15" above the stove. The new holes in the pipe are now exposed.

I painted the pipe with stove brite to cover both scratches and the holes with great success. Good paint. I don't think that they are that obvious so I don't plan to install dumby screws.

Thanks for the help folks.