slight angle coming straight out of stove ?

[RustyShackleford]

I am trying to rig a single-wall pipe from my BK Princess to
my Selkirk smoke-pipe adapter. I have only 42" of vertical
to work with, and I need 8" of offset. So in order to meet
BK's suggestion of 36" straight out of the top of the stove
before any elbows, I've got a problem (not enough vertical
space left out of the 42" for the dual-45 offset).

Elmer's has 15-degree elbows. So I'm tempted to come
straight out of the stove into a 15-degree elbow, then 2ft
pipe length, and then the other 15-degree elbow. This should
about give me the 8" offset, with some room left over for
a short straight length that slides over the smokepipe adapter.

Thoughts on this ?

P.S. Another option is to trim off the smoke-pipe adapter
some (it now sticks down about 14" from the chimney) in
order to give myself more vertical room to work with,
but I'm afraid cutting that thing neatly is going to be a
pain, plus maybe I run into the 18" vertical clearance
from a horizontal pipe run (the offset section is not
exactly a "horizontal pipe run", but still ...) and the
ceiling at the bottom of the chimney is wood.

 

[summit]

trim the connector down to about 4", thats all you'll ever need. If it is mounted in some way that you can take it off the chimney, then it is easy enough to cut w/ snips. If it is in a finished collar/ support with no way to remove it (other than pulling the chimney out) use a thin metal blade on a 4" grinder. Keep up a tarp, cuz it throws sparks and shavings around when you cut w/ a grinder! If you dont have a grinder, they make the same (albiet more expensive) blade for a 7.5" circular saw.. they even have some for the cheap ryobi battery pack hand held units that are 4". DONT use a sawzall, its bound to make a jagged cut.
once thats over, elbow as high as clearance will allow at the TOP ( get a pipe shield if you can't meet the 18") and then come down straight to the stove to help satisfy the initial vertical height requirement.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

trim the connector down to about 4", thats all you'll ever need. If it is mounted in some way that you can take it off the chimney, then it is easy enough to cut w/ snips. If it is in a finished collar/ support with no way to remove it (other than pulling the chimney out) use a thin metal blade on a 4" grinder. Keep up a tarp, cuz it throws sparks and shavings around when you cut w/ a grinder! If you dont have a grinder, they make the same (albiet more expensive) blade for a 7.5" circular saw.. they even have some for the cheap ryobi battery pack hand held units that are 4". DONT use a sawzall, its bound to make a jagged cut.
once thats over, elbow as high as clearance will allow at the TOP ( get a pipe shield if you can't meet the 18") and then come down straight to the stove to help satisfy the initial vertical height requirement.

agreed, its ok to cut down a dsac or dsa as needed

i like electric sheetmetal shears- but a really clean cut isn't needed, wont be visible

 

[RustyShackleford]

Thanks guys, for the beta on trimming the DSA or DSAC (not sure what the
difference is). I never thought of a grinding wheel. I don't have a grinder
but I imagine a drill would work - or would the speed of rotation be too low ?

I'd like to re-visit the idea of using Elmer's 15-degree elbows though. A techie
at BK thought it sounded reasonable. Anyone with experience on this ? I guess
it all comes down to fluid dynamics.

 

[Archer39]

a drill would work but it would be slow. If you don't already have the grinding wheel for the drill i would just get a pair of tin snips and do it by hand.

 

[summit]

Its hard to say what the draft in that system will be in the winter when its running steady. Every situation and setup produces digfferent results, in different regions. Putting the connector higher will increase the likely hood of better draft, vs a sharp turn right outta the stove.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Its hard to say what the draft in that system will be in the winter when its running steady. Every situation and setup produces digfferent results, in different regions. Putting the connector higher will increase the likely hood of better draft, vs a sharp turn right outta the stove.

Yes, but 15-degrees is NOT a very sharp turn at all. So maybe 15-degrees
right out of the stove collar is as good or better than a dual-45 "kink" that
is 24-36" or so up. Plus I can probably manage a straight 12" or so below
the lower of the 15's.

 

[DAKSY]

trim the connector down to about 4", thats all you'll ever need. If it is mounted in some way that you can take it off the chimney, then it is easy enough to cut w/ snips. If it is in a finished collar/ support with no way to remove it (other than pulling the chimney out) use a thin metal blade on a 4" grinder. Keep up a tarp, cuz it throws sparks and shavings around when you cut w/ a grinder! If you dont have a grinder, they make the same (albiet more expensive) blade for a 7.5" circular saw.. they even have some for the cheap ryobi battery pack hand held units that are 4". DONT use a sawzall, its bound to make a jagged cut.
once thats over, elbow as high as clearance will allow at the TOP ( get a pipe shield if you can't meet the 18") and then come down straight to the stove to help satisfy the initial vertical height requirement.

agreed, its ok to cut down a dsac or dsa as needed

i like electric sheetmetal shears- but a really clean cut isn't needed, wont be visible

I use a circular saw with an abrasive fiber blade.
Mark the length with a Sharpie or masking tape.
WEAR GOGGLES!
Hold the piece of plywood or cardboard .
Plunge the initial cut & roll the pipe towards the blade.
If you follow the line closely, you'll have a nice, straight cut.
Deburr with a smooth mill file.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Its hard to say what the draft in that system will be in the winter when its running steady. Every situation and setup produces digfferent results, in different regions. Putting the connector higher will increase the likely hood of better draft, vs a sharp turn right outta the stove.

Yes, but 15-degrees is NOT a very sharp turn at all. So maybe 15-degrees
right out of the stove collar is as good or better than a dual-45 "kink" that
is 24-36" or so up. Plus I can probably manage a straight 12" or so below
the lower of the 15's.

I decided the best compromise was to go up 24" and then do the offset with 30-degree
elbows. Elmer's is very cool, with the option of 15- and 30-degree elbows ! They
also made me a couple of pieces of custom-length pipe for no extra charge (looks
like they just charged me for the next bigger size (10" pipe costs same as catalog
quote for 12" pipe).

 

[RustyShackleford]

trim the connector down to about 4", thats all you'll ever need. If it is mounted in some way that you can take it off the chimney, then it is easy enough to cut w/ snips. If it is in a finished collar/ support with no way to remove it (other than pulling the chimney out) use a thin metal blade on a 4" grinder. Keep up a tarp, cuz it throws sparks and shavings around when you cut w/ a grinder! If you dont have a grinder, they make the same (albiet more expensive) blade for a 7.5" circular saw.. they even have some for the cheap ryobi battery pack hand held units that are 4". DONT use a sawzall, its bound to make a jagged cut.
once thats over, elbow as high as clearance will allow at the TOP ( get a pipe shield if you can't meet the 18") and then come down straight to the stove to help satisfy the initial vertical height requirement.

agreed, its ok to cut down a dsac or dsa as needed

i like electric sheetmetal shears- but a really clean cut isn't needed, wont be visible

I use a circular saw with an abrasive fiber blade.
Mark the length with a Sharpie or masking tape.
WEAR GOGGLES!
Hold the piece of plywood or cardboard .
Plunge the initial cut & roll the pipe towards the blade.
If you follow the line closely, you'll have a nice, straight cut.
Deburr with a smooth mill file.

Thanks for the hints. Unfortunately, my DSA cannot be removed.
I have a nice hand-held grinder and put an abrasive cutting blade
on it, but I'm not enthusiastic about the sparks that will be flying
all over my living room.