i had my stove professionally installed last winter and there were no leaks. i took some of the joints apart because i had to move the stove and when i fired it up just now every single joint was smoking, even the ones i didn't touch and i made them all tight. i didn't notice any silicone on any joints but the adapter joint. should i silicone them all? i don't plan on moving it again.
smoke from exhaust joints
- Thread starter ramdez
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Yes, I would put silicone on all the joints. I had the same problem, about a year after my install, and the installer had put silicone on all the joints. So I went up and got a tube of high temp silicone, and just spread some all around each joint. No more smoke. I used Permatex Red silicone. It was all the auto shop had a the time but I believe they have a blue silicone thats rated slightly hotter, but I dont think the vent gets up over 500 degrees if it does we got a problem.
cool. I got some clear that the stove store gave me to put around the adapter. do you put a bead around the male end and then put it back together or do you put a bead around the joint as it sits together?
I would say Macman is probably correct, but I didnt do both. I figured if I put it on the inside and fit the pipe together I'll have one heck of a time getting that pipe apart if I need to, because they would be like glued shut, so I just put the pipes together and ran a big bead all around the outside joint. It doesnt leak at all and if I have to unhook the pipe for any reason I just cut the silicone bead and pull the pipe off.
I have a problem with the clean out cap smoking when I first fire up the stove. I have had this problem since it was installed two years ago. I taped the joint but it leaks out the double wall don't want to silicone it need to get it off to clean. Stove was just cleaned 15 ft pipe was cleaned still leaks. Only leaks on start up any ideas?
they also make silicone tape that can be used to seal the joints, and is re-useable. The problem with gooping silicone in all the joints is that it makes it nearly impossible to take the pipe apart later. Not a problem if you never take the pipe apart, but if you do (to move the stove, like the OP, or to clean the pipe), youve got a surprise coming......usually will destroy the pipe trying to get it apart......and pipe isnt cheap!
AZ Pellet Guy said:
Are you sure it's still leaking out of the cap, and not from the corner joints? I found that I had to tape all the joints on the cleanout T. In the pic below, I still hadn't finished taping....the cap at the bottom of the pic did get taped also.
You might want to try the flashlight trick....start-up the stove when it's dark, and shine flashlight over T when pellets start to smoke.....you'll see right where the smoke is coming from.
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I am a firm believer at sealing(inside and out) the joints that I don't take apart. I use the tape on the joints that I do take apart for stove maintenence. The only joints I don't seal are the ones outside the house.
As Pete says do the flash light trick on stove start up when smoke is the strongest. You will find all leaks that way.
As Pete says do the flash light trick on stove start up when smoke is the strongest. You will find all leaks that way.
Also, sometimes on this pellet pipe once the smoke gets out of the inner flue it gets stuck between the inner and outer pipe. Then it can run to other locations and leak out. So the place you see smoke is not always exactly where the true leak is.
JTP 10181
This is what happens to my pipe the smoke comes out of inner wall of pipe and leaks out of outer wall if I seal off the pipe at the clean out it leaks somewhere else. I wish I had bought some other pipe with a better seal. Been a problem since stove was installed.
This is what happens to my pipe the smoke comes out of inner wall of pipe and leaks out of outer wall if I seal off the pipe at the clean out it leaks somewhere else. I wish I had bought some other pipe with a better seal. Been a problem since stove was installed.
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